pawpro

A guy read the code for me from Engine module: 1 Fault Found: 005784 - Please Check DTC Memory of Steering Wheel Electronics P1698 - 000 - Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 223233 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2018.14.27 Time: 19:20:15 No errors in steering wheel. The error reappears immediately after clearing. From http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18106/P1698/005784 : Perhaps they nudged a connector or didn't connect something back after EGR replace. Any ideas where to look or any other ideas? Many thanks!

Hi, I've had EGR replaced on Friday after a diagnosed EGR valve getting stuck intermittently causing coils light flashing and car going into limp mode. On Saturday morning I noticed the cruise control doesn't engage. Basically I hit the Set button and nothing happens (I know how to use it all is in correct positions). I went back to the stealer today and after 5 minutes they said the wires are broken in the it will be X to repair. Can they be mistaken and what a coincidence! It was a very quick diagnosis. Can I also see the "broken wires"? Could it be something else? Any ideas? Also is replacing the switch a clean job?

Unbelievable! I had no problems with the twin-door. My right rear fog light went off (with a correct error message). In Poland both should be operational. Checked the bulb all was good there. Searched few times online for possible suggestions but I didn't find anything conclusive. When buying the car the licence plate bulb error was on but was assured by the seller it was just a bulb... right. Who would have thought! I found this thread today and thought it was easy enough to take the trim off and have a look at the wires. Taking the trim was ok. I took the material cover off which hides the loom connectors you need to release in order to pull the wires in. It was held by 10 or so black plastic pins all around. It seems you just need to pull by the material and they will shoot right out. Then there is the rubber handle you pull to close the hatch (one screw and the outer side has a plastic hook in the front - you can manoeuvre it out easily). Couple more pins like that one on each (outer) side on the covers of the twin-door hinges and you can take them off (held by few clicky things). Next you have to take the black plastic cover off which is mounted on the bottom (when closed) edge of the window. This just needs to be pulled back - you wont break anything there are 5 or so metal springy things that hold it in place. It was surprisingly robustly installed so had my doubts when continuing to increase the force. This reveals two black torx screws one on each side. I only undid the left one which allowed me to pull away (only on the top - when open) the inner cover of the hinge the lower remained firmly installed. Given the 4 connectors (2 blue and 2 black - each different) are undone you can now gently pull the wires near the left side of the window. I am pretty confident that the act of pulling the cables out made it worse. I say this because everything worked apart from the right fog light. Now when I undid the horrible black thing foamy tape around the section of the wires I found only 2!!! of the cables intact and remaining 6!!! completely torn apart with not an insignificant damage to the insulation. To be clear 6 out of 8 wires were completely separated (no continuity). At this point there was no going back I needed to mend all 6 and looking at the remaining 2 I considered fixing those two as well. Unfortunately I wasn't as well prepared for the repair as I would have hoped. I soldered the wires which is definitely a bad idea and not a permanent fix simply because the soldering is done in place where there is a mechanical strain put onto the wires. I'm quite sure that if I open only the small section of the booth few times all hell will break loose (It would seem that opening the both sections together would not put strain onto the wires). Also if you are not particularly good at soldering and your iron is not too powerful you may find it impossible to solder the thicker wires (brown or purple) as their thermal capacity will immediately cool your iron down and you'll be melting insulation in no time. Another thing is the warning from the OP about wires having the same colour. I did not find this entirely correct. In fact I had two wires black with blue stripe broken but upon closer inspection found one to be much brighter blue than the other so had no problems discerning which one is which. I've put it all together and all is working perfectly - for now. This is not a permanent fix! It will require a whole section of the wire to be replaced and the bit that is in motion when opening the small tail gate will have to be made of whole wire and probably strengthened to dissipate the bending motion. All 6 wires were "cut" in the same exact place. Well done Skoda!