andybristol

The problem I have is someone at some point has changed the complete headlight unit for a factory xenon unit and rammed a H7 halogen lamp in to it with an inappropriate bodge to hold the H7 halogen lamp in to it, whereas the other side (N/S) is factory H7 (halogen) projector, so I need to either replace the whole O/S unit OR hopefully be able to just change the "internal" reflector part of the projector assembly from an H7 projector unit, hence asking for a smashed/damaged H7 light unit. Right now I cannot afford £40 / £50 for a replacement one from eBay etc, what I do have is time to get the headlight out strip it and swap the reflector/bulb mount from the donor unit. ( I managed to get a reasonable enough pattern for it to pass its MOT last month, but involved basically gluing the lamp in it ! ) I'm sure someone has either a spare unit OR a damaged one sat on a shelf somewhere, they do tend to be swapped out for a standard reflector unit due to the poor light output from them, so sure to be many knocking around somewhere, just gotta find one. Thanks

Hi all I am desperate to locate an H7 projector fitment from a damaged or good projector headlight unit... If you have a broken one I only need the bit the bulb mounts onto. Thanks Reason, someone numpty has fitted a factory xenon headlight on the O'S of the car so I cannot fit a standard H7 lamp into it as the xenons seem to be screwed in place so no way to fit a H7 lamp into it, they'd bodged a lamp in it for mot and now its fallen out so I need to change the lamp holder part of the internals so I can fit a standard H7 lamp into existing headlight unit. Don't want to spend 50 or 60 quid just to mount a lamp ! Someone somewhere must have a smashed projector light dumped in their garage. Thank you. happy to pay something and postage. regards Andrew

THANK YOU.... so much for your kind advice and help with the info... Since changing the sender things seem to have stteled down and I have now done over 1k miles with no further warnings, HOWEVER, I did also try to find the second sensor around the back of the vac pump area somewhere according to the manual ! and possibly wiggled any wires that maybe there so could have cleared any loose connection there ( a possability). Anyway either way no red warnings since and even the temp gauge / sender seems to be more consistant now also... despite no codes being generated perhaps it just needed a few cycles of the ignition to clear things down ??? either way NO red water temp warnings for a few weeks now... NOW if ONLY I could find the break in the outside temp sender....lol.

Hi all, well the red water warning has been flashing up at me and binging for almost a year now despite the engine water temp being spot on and its time to hopefully sort this out once and for all... I have changed the expansion bottle twice now, once with an almost new genuine bottle and then with a generic copy bottle from fleabay, STILL getting the warning light come on... read some more and others suggested the temp sender, so despite it being rock solid and always reading the same bang top dead centre, so changed that admitedly for a generic sender which does read slightly cooler so little its not worth worring about... I am STILL getting this warning light. NO CODES SHOWING UP, I have scanned it with VCDS. My next move would be to change the water within the system in case it has become somehow contaminated enough to confuse the sensor probs within the bottle ?? Its now beginning to annoy me that all the usual suspects have been changed yet I still have the issue.... On another subject my external temp reading has always dropped and then eventually gone back to the correct temp so I've always assumed that there was a break in the cable for that one... but that does not worry me, I can feel if its hot or cold... however I am wondering if this could be the same issue with the warning lamp... ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM TO AID MY DIAGNOSIS FOR THIS PROBLEM... I'm located in Bristol but do get around, ie this weekend I'll be in Bognor Regis area, if anyone knew what to look for, obviously in exchange for Bank of England gift vouchers (cash). ANYONE ..... ??

Hi folks, I've just managed to pick up a set of 16" alloys (as below) for my Octavia est, that has skinted me out for a while, before I can use them I need a spare wheel does anyone have an old 16" steel wheel knocking around they don't want or would like to donate or sale cheap please, if it has a tyre even better but has to be 205/5 0/16 to match the others (my cars a 4x4 so all need to be same size). THANK YOU

Thank you for your input, much appreciated. Both lights are from / for an 08 the same yr vehicle and look to be the same shape, the ones fitted are projectors and the replacements are SINGLE H4 lamps as can be seen in the images below. Its more a case of hoping the power plugs fit straight into the rear of the replacements. Hope pictures help... Thank you.

By favouring I mean I always find my VW / Skoda etc vehicles clear the left hand side of the windscreen first, regardless of where I place the controls... As I said I'm not 100% but I think the flap motor reset is only possible by software ? I'm sure others will know for sure.... I do tend to use mine in the auto position, but makes little difference if I use manual either. best of luck.

I've just managed to buy a set of headlights H4 single lamp type headlights which should hopefully be a straight swap ??? Not sure about the wiring connectors at the rear though anyone ??

Not an expert by any means but I believe the flaps that control the flow can be adjusted / reset using vcds / vagcom.... There may be a way to do this using the controls on the front. I have noticed in most of my VAG vehicles(3) they do tend to favour the left hand side of the cabin... I guess maybe due to them being originally LHD vehicle design. Hope this helps in some way Andy

As per title, can I change the current projector headlights (which we all know are terrible) to standard NON projector type, any mods to do or a simple plug and play type set up ??? Thanks any advice gratefully received.... NEXT question anyone got any 08 mk2 H4 lights sat in their garage ??

Thanks..

Thanks for info andersp5, I seem to have resolved the issue since posting, I'd found the previous owner police or person I got it from who bought several direct from the police had wired the centre console power socket and radio together and radio was not shutting down completely hence the draw, I have not had a flat battery or any other similar flat issues since I found this and resolved for me at least.....

One site I did come across had a simple idea and a very simple resolution should it prove to be the radio.... Not the best but it'll prove a point for a while I guess see : http://www.r32oc.com/topic/31099-rns-510-a-simple-solution-to-battery-drain/

Thanx Mike.... will try that and leave it for four or five days and see what happens ? Will post findings, in a week or so

Mike as always you are the fountain of knowledge....lol, THANK YOU.. The vehicle diod actually come with a bolero and I changed that back to the standard stream HU. Still had the issue after doing that and have done ever since... Its now really getting me annoyed, I have been around the car very carefully and it would seem that almost ALL cabling and modules, relays etc have/were removed, I guess what I could do is to place a simple switch in the power feed to the radio to confirm it is the radio causing the drain which I believe was something to do with the original issue, something about it running but not being on ? IF that cures it I guess I can then go more in depth into the wiring which I do recall did not look very original but all seemed to work as it should so never really thought anymore of it. As you say it has the Q version and from what I've read over the past few days since posting and like you say should not have the drain issue. Another reason to compound the problem is I'm not using the Octi every day now as I have a 2011 VW T5.1GP as well so I tend to take whatever keys come to hand when I'm leaving the house..... I really ought to sell the Octi but it is such a nice car and I do enjoy driving it particularly since its remap, its a different drive, much more enjoyable and far better economy, on a run I can now regularly get up to 60mpg at around 70-80mph on a motorway run. Trouble is its worth more in parts than it is in one piece ! Although if I was offered around 2k I guess I would reluctantly accept it, its not a pretty car due to paintwork but I guess if someone spent a couple of grand on it, it would then be forecourt condition and value. Anyway Thanks again Mike, I will whip the radio out tomorrow (subject to weather) and put a flick switch inline to see if I can stop the drain, if it does then I'll investigate the wiring to it from the radio back to the loom or visa versa.... regards

HI all, without going through the whole site for a few hours does anyone know if there is a definitive resolve to the battery drain issues of the Octavia, I seem to recall I seen somewhere about changing a module ? Anyone know the details, I am really thinging about selling this car due to his very annoying issue. I do not use my car sometimes for four or five days at a time and regardless of fitting a new battery etc I still find after about 4 days it won't turn over ! I then have to get out the jump leads etc etc etc.... I've had enough either it gets sorted or its going ! Might seem silly taking this stance but I simply want a car I can go out to and turn the key and it starts, I know its not a new car by any means but I've had many older cars that start on the button after standing for months, this won't even last a week. SKODA hang your heads in SHAME ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-30-H.lbl Part No SW: 3C8 937 049 E HW: 3C8 937 049 E Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2602 Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000006013613 Coding: 418A0F030004140043110D000000000000087F075C000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 3365F94752C0B386591-8066 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1Z2 955 119 C Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB Component: Wischer 090808 022 0601 Coding: 00055223 Shop #: WSC 73430 Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB Component: RLS 011008 054 0402 Coding: 00471277 Shop #: WSC 73430 Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V3.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 Q HW: 1K0 907 951 Component: J533__Gateway H16 0202 Revision: H16 Serial number: 2700 Coding: E9837F0E0002022303 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 3561C75F5CB4ADB6775-8060 Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1K0-959-433-MAX.clb Part No SW: 1K0 959 433 BT HW: 1K0 959 433 BT Component: KSG PQ35 G2 020 0204 Revision: 00020000 Serial number: 00000000000000 Coding: 81801A085283007F3F04850540085F96907CA0 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 8305E987C2E04306091-80D6 Subsystem 5 - Part No: 1Z0 951 171 Component: Innenraumueberw.008 4801 Coding: 00000000 Shop #: WSC 73430 I thought the above might be useful for those in the know.... I chose anything I seem to recall was involved.

OR it has frozen and split the bottle had it once on a previous car, pain in the bum to change but not sure how these are, had to remove the wheel and wheel liner to get enough room to work, hopefully it'll just be a pipe off or split.

Personally the Bosch .... although having said that if I leave my car idle stood still for more than 5 days it has been known to be drained in that short time, seems normal from what I gather, battery been tested three times by different places all say battery ok so must be a draw somewhere on these Octavia's !

When I first got my octi it had a bolero unit in it, the main problem I had was signal... as I believe the bolero uses two aerials to run correctly (I'll probably be corrected on that) but I took it out as I found no difference to the swing unit, which still plays MP3 discs, and has the multichanger in the boot, I retro fitted my multichanger cost me about £30 in all, oh the only other thing that did not work correctly with the bolero was the heater display ie temp up and down and the reversing sensor display... other than that no real difference I personally would not go to a Bolero again, there was no real benefit to be had other than the sd card interface ! Last thing I find that despite changing my aerial twice now I still suffer with poor reception on my swing unit. Best of luck whatever you decide....

I used Avon Tuning, Tockington not far from the the OLD severn bridge, in fact I think you can get to Tockington from the services junction there, double check your map. PS.. like other have said its only required if its an older PD model, primarily pre facelift but there was a few that got through with the old engine in...

Just received email quote from a local independent VAG specialist whom I have used previously £715.32 inclusive of parts labour and VAT (all parts manufactured by LUK inc DMF) AND they supply a loan car for as long as it takes, why did I waste my time with main dealers. Lesson learnt ! Ahhh, see how a cuppa clears the negative vibes...lol MCM Garage Radstock Somerset mcmgarage.co.uk/

Just checked the CAP value and the clutch and DMF is over half the value of the car. Maybe I'll break the car and make more selling it for parts, based on the prices people charge for things like: engine £1000, gearbox £600, haldex unit £300, abs pump £100, turbo £150, alloys and good goodyear tires £150, doors and panles £400, etc etc etc... worth more in a pile of bits than one lump So its Monday, its raining, the world is ending, time to put the kettle on me thinks !

OK... So finally got someone who was willing to answer the question, still unsure if thats correct but... The DMF is NOT part of the clutch apparently, or at least according to Skoda Customer Services today, (although its my guess that it suddenly may become part of a clutch if you were to take your car in and ask for a clutch change, expecting them to have only fitted cover, plate, and bearing and suddenly they are charging you for a DMF they've fitted as part of your "clutch change" although you didn't ask for one) Apparently its part of the engine ? so that must make an intake manifold part of the engine along with anything else that BOLTS on to it ! So ONLY half a job then Skoda ? but they are happy to give a two year warranty on the clutch. Oh why did I buy a skoda

OK... next issue does the clutch offer include the DMF ??? Surely if they are placing a two yr Parts AND Labour Warranty on the fixed price repair they would have to be changing all 4 components, DMF, cover, plate, bearing ?? I would be very surprised if they would only change the three basic parts in view of the trouble known with the DMF. I just rang one dealer got the young lady and asked the question, do you know if the fixed price includes the DMF.... Oh no she says thats about a £1000 on its own ! so how does one get any sense out of a dealer with this type of response, surely she should have said I'm not sure sir I will make some inquires and call you right back So I think off to Skoda UK customer services.... trying to find their number on their web site using the contact us and website error.... I am destined not to have this job done I can tell !