finallysnapped

I was thinking if it's droning rather than clicking it's the inner and not outer joint. I think I'll err on the side of caution and have a mechanic inspect it before making a decision.

When I was having my brakes done the mechanic told me one of the CV boots was split and it would be an MOT issue. It's not clicking on lock yet but there is a drone coming from the front corner. Is this likely to be the CV Joint? Also if I'm paying for labour to replace the boot it makes sense to replace the joint too (216k on clock, only part history, and think it's failing), so any advice on brand? Cheers

I miss it in some ways, the sitting high up, the daftness of it, the once we had proper snow. But the difference now is the mpg obviously, now we take the Superb everywhere because comparatively it costs buttons to run.

1998 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi ES. Electric everything, leather interior, chunky AT tyres, decat exhaust and removed EGR. Also leaked a lot, so had regular soggy carpets. Was starting to need a lot of welding hence skoda ownership. Hassle free, no leaks, or so I thought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replaced the motor and door control unit. Went from 7 to 5 vcds fault codes, still a single wire fault on ccm. Need to check other door units then if not that start following all the wires. Good fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Faulty door control module been replaced still no interior lights and vcds says ccm is single wire operation. Boot issue was faulty microswitch. Replaced with one out of a Passat and it's working great. My other topics have more detail. Didn't want to just have a laundry list in one thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had the following error codes on vag com 01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 01336 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 80-00 - Please Register/Activate Changed the door control unit on drivers side (attached to window motor) One fault has cleared but the other remains. 01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System 80-00 - Single-Wire Operation I was wondering what the significance of the second set of numbers after the fault code were, the 49-10 and 80-00. Do they give me more of a clue as to where to look next? The wiring seems fine, should I go round checking the other doors next? Oh and superb mk 1, 1.9 diesel, 2007 in case that makes any difference. Thanks

I think it's the same problem I have, and I think that problem is the door control unit. It's a black box that is part of window motor. I had symptoms of wet CCM, like doors wouldn't open or lock, windows wouldn't work, lights on doors would flash etc. After checking everything I discovered that the door control unit was the culprit when working on something unrelated. I wedged it in and got some functions back like lights on door, windows and locking but still interior lights only work when switched on and not when door is open. I ran a diagnostic and think this fault has something to do with it: 1 Fault Found: 01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System 80-00 - Single-Wire Operation I plan to change out the motor and door control to see if this fixes it, and hopefully if that gives two wire operation (high & low) then my lights will magically start working as they should. As I said, my quick fix on that part (with cable ties) fixed a lot of issues that at first appear to be water ingress CCM related.

Just to provide closure to the thread, the reason for removing this was the following fault: 01141 - Luggage Compartment Unlocking Switch (E165) 27-00 - Implausible Signal Problem was boot opening from fob and drivers door but not from boot switch. To remove unit unclip the release cable from the lock and mechanism. Remove four bolts holding plastic unit containing motor, license pate lights and boot switch. Unplug all cables from the unit. Move the unit along to the left and you have enough clearance on the cable to remove it from the motor. Remove unit (may need to pull clips out from wiring loom to give yourself enough space). Replaced the unit with one from a Passat (51 plate but I guess they are all the same from '98 to '05 or there abouts). Unit cost £10 from local breaker so a cheap fix. Fit your old lock barrel so it's the same key (twists out), and I also fitted the old motor. I left the old lock and motor from the new unit at the scrap yard in case a) that's what someone needed and b.) so I didn't pay for parts I didn't need. As Haynes say fitting is reverse of removal. Boot now working perfectly. Noticed there was some waxy grease in the old switch, don't know if this was supposed to be there or a previous owner did it. I suspect this was the culprit in providing an implausible signal

Removed the trim panel, removed 4 10mm bolts holding unit to boot. No idea how to get the unit out. Do I have to also remove the boot locking mechanism or is there a way to unclip the release cable? Thanks

Found a fix for some issues, started another thread because I had a specific question - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/350958-window-motor-and-pcb/ Feel free to merge topics if you want modpeople.

Found the culprit. These two pins slot into the window motor, if they don't make a connection door functions fail. Squeezed them a bit closer together, installed PCB then also had to wedge the top plastic covering of window motor (which covers pcb) with wiring loom. Obviously a temporary fix and I will replace the motor/ pcb unit in time. Shown here with black plastic cover removed. Things fixed: Drivers door showing open or closed (check this before messing with microswitches) Windows and locks working from drivers door panel Lights on warning buzzer when door open Central locking from fob works on all doors Still not working: Courtesy light on door open (works with switch though).

I had some electrical problems that indicated water ingress/ CCM problems but after inspecting CCM and cleaning up the earth in the passenger side I had a look toward the drivers side to see if that's where the problem could be. Jiggling (technical term) the window motor makes the door open warning on the dash light up and enables me to open the drivers window (not any passenger ones from drivers door controls though). I took out the plug and checked that, there's current and all pins/ connections are clean. The PCB is covered in red plastic, I don't know if this is is intentional. I'm considering having a bash at replacing this unit to see if it fixes the drivers door problems. Is the window motor/ door control PCB the same on a B5 Passat as a Mk1 superb? Just it might be easier to find one at a local breakers.

I think they start high to lure you in then you show up to be assessed and the price goes down and down and down.

Right so it's a reasonably warm and dry day so I have it drying out. There's a bit of condensation and soggy soundproofing in the passenger footwell but the ECU/ comfort module is still dry and pristine looking, box was dry too. As all of the windows work independently but not from drivers door control, and drivers window is more likely not to be working than working. It made me wonder, does the wiring loom from the drivers door come to a plug in the passenger footwell? If so that might be the source of some of my problems, especially if that's what the water damaged. If this leads to here