CicaYeti

so I' ll go and visit an exorcist for my battery trouble! anyway changing it with a bigger one isn't a bad thought

eh eh start and run the car is the 'minimal' use..... every people manage with radio, windows, roof and other device in 2015, so it's unadequate in my simple opinion!

Moreover Sicily has many mountains that force drivers to use chains or winter wheels.....it's not only a regulations matter, it's a need!

you are wrong... 1st the factory bosch = dead because of **** quality 2nd the substitute bought in order to travel long road without problems 3rd bought with more capacity in order to leave in peace my bonnet for a couple of years... Who own a Yeti does know that the factory battery is unadeuquate for the vehicle.... I used my advice :coffee:

Why don't you buy the technical manual, would be a strong help for homemade works on the car

cool video and absolutely fantastic vehicle :clap:

seriously?

now it's clear ty...... winter falken first y = 10400 km second y = 13200 km third y = 9950 km fourth y = 23000 km dead! Summer falken = 35000 km in use!

when you buy a car there's everything basically clear on its brochure. Here in Italy every people in winter change the regular summer with winter tyres without complaint......even forester buyer change their silly fourseason with winter approaching the Alps.

I don't agree. haldex is always on work and many sensor placed on the pedal, steer and wheels play role together for improving the torque it has to direct properly. I daily feel the push on the rear suddenly at the move forward on regular road, at the traffic light, more I feel the change of spin load on lateral spin of the car body, the latter is the chief caratteristich of flatness in curves of the yeti comparing to other Ford, toy, renault and nissan! nearly 5years, 142000 km and good abilità in driving cheers

Summer and winter wheels are identical for australian law? ridicolous law-writers....anyway solve your problem buying a 4*4 yeti and a couple of spider that fit perfectly even on no chainable wheelhttp://www.thule.com/it-it/it/products/snow-chains/snow-chains/suv/thule-k-summit-xl-k55-_-04535755

I'm right instead from the second link: Partenza e accelerazione In fase di partenza e accelerazione è più efficace utilizzare la trazione posteriore. In fase di accelerazione, la valvola di regolazione è pertanto completamente chiusa, affinché sui dischi della frizione vi sia la massima pressione operativa e alle ruote posteriori venga fornita la massima coppia disponibile translation: Starting and acceleration When starting the car is more efficient using rear axle power. During the acceleration phase, the regulating valve is fully closed, in order to release the biggest operating pressure on the clutch plates and to provide the best available torque on the rear wheels. This they write and this I experience on my day use of the Yeti, it's strange you don't feel this on yours, probably faulty?

Pardon I can't understand the answer......try to explain different pls, I'm not english.

When you start the vehicle the rear axle push the car, stay straight on the seat and try to fell this push, in that situation the front wheels don't slip.....try different grade of power on the starting line, you'll feel always the rear kick..... there's a video on youtube that explain the Haldex work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSP87ET596M and more there is this, look: http://www.scribd.com/doc/35217806/Highlights-2

the 4th gen haldex doesn't need the spin of front axle for being active, it's always in action! In many EU countries the socks are not legal I usually go to sking and drive in many snowy roads, never had issues with winter tyres plus 4x4 traction on Yeti. For those who look at the chains can buy the spider, easy to mount and less thick!

I had the Dunlop sport previously and comparing to Falken I don't hear difference in rolling noise, otherwise the driving is better with Falken.

Try an higher ampere battery or capacity, the same box size can accomodate it, I have more capacity battery and in my opinion factory battery is pretty poor!

You have a Yeti with the same weight and propulsion of mine....go on Falken without a doubt.....they are fantastic in summer and winter. I use the http://tinyurl.com/od43lnp in summer and http://tinyurl.com/oovn3rd in winter.. Never had the esp on or problems with them, trust :coffee:

change the battery with a better one.....sometime they die without a reason! I'm on my 3rd battery in five years!

My 2010 Yeti doesn't and my 2015 Citigo doesn't probably I'm lucky or you not at all! :cocktail:

I've discovered there's light in the boot, marvellous there's also a tipical 3 cilinder noise on 2500-2800 rpm I confirm the hill assistant, very useful and unexpected! The 75 hp motor is robust and effective in hard hills.....not a fca motor indeed

The 'real' or the 'clone'???? there are a lot of clone bottles of it around, stay away from that brand!

DSG? do you prefer DSG to manual? :coffee: some people not! me too...not!

What you have to look is the optimal maintenance and the regular change of the different fluids of it; the best is every 15000-20000 km and not the suggested 30000!!! Yeti is a strong device for everyday storm, I assure you (mine is sept 2010 CFJA motor).....

Hungarian rendorseg (police) drives a lot of Yeti, most of them are the 105 hp diesel, some have 4x4 on the old 2.0 litres 110 hp diesel.....