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Alfatoad

Finding my way
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Everything posted by Alfatoad

  1. I've used super pro on the track car (Alfa).. no complaints so far Just to let you guys know that Febi do at least 2 version of this bush the standard 4 void Part no. 38662 & 38663 & a 2 void stiffer part 27069 & 27071
  2. If you are just changing a bump stop that is all you'll need to do. Remove strut complete (shock & top mount) undo top mount change bump stop, refit top mount, rebolt strut to car. the only hard bit is the bottom shock bolt, awkward would be a better description. No alignment needed. but is is good practice to get it done at least every 18 months
  3. SP3349 is the Monroe number you need. x2 Should be available from your local Motor Factors Check here http://www.thepartsalliance.com/index.php/about-the-parts-alliance/our-branches It'll be the cheapest option as you are only replacing springs, and Monroe is excellent quality.
  4. The rear bush of the gearbox mount is in two halves and upper and lower, and each half has voids in the rubber. I took and old timing belt measured up the voids and cut the belt to fit, it removes any slack in the bush, but the oe rubber is still there to deform & absorb vibrations, and movement, but tightens up the joint. must look and the main engine mounts next.
  5. So getting home from the garage (Fr Pads & Discs) just pulling to the driveway and I can't get first..hmm, engine off, select gear, start engine, move car into the drive. Pedal was fine so must so I deduced it'll be the slave. I'll grab one from work and throw it in. Roll on 20hrs I've managed to drive her to my garage, (that was fun) and strip off the airbox and battery. And find that the slave clyinder is held in by half a bolt, thast one bolt mostly unscrewed, So quick fix would be bolt it back up, throw in another screw and wait for it to fail at a later date. But that'd guarantee a side of the road, middle of nowhere breakdown Very easy job, remove the airbox (one screw), battery (3 bolts) and tray (3bolts) you can now see the cylinder on the top of the gearbox. The engine mount will need the diagonal bar lossening to more it out of the way. Unbolt the cylinder, manoeuvre the pipe out of the rubber grommet and bracket, and lift it up. The slaves connector is just a flat blade screwdriver job, and a firm pull to separate the join. If you have the new slave ready to go you'll not spill a drop of fluid. Bleeding, I have a presure bleeder so used that, so can't comment on manual techniques I did note that the reservoir di dneed to be near full to avoid air been blown through the pipe. From a stiff wobbley rough pedal, to a smooth light prescise action. I'm sure the car is driving smoother too.
  6. Your brake can drag and not cause any smell but the heat will be obvious compared to the front, which should be hotter as 80% of braking is done at the front. Where the rear pads changed recently ? Common mistake is to wind the piston back all the way or to move the handbrake lever. To reset the caliper wind the piston all the way in, with a wind back tool or G-clamp and pipe pliers, then wind it out ½ a turn. Reassemble everything then put on the handbrake cable, you may need to loosen the cable adjusting nut. But do not move the handbrake lever with out it on the disc with pads
  7. Lots of does mine doesn't mine here so here's a link to LuK's catalog website. http://webcat.schaeffler-aftermarket.com/web/schaeffler/en_DE/PKW/applicationSearch.xhtml
  8. Is that not top and bottom of the rear mount
  9. Wonkey, Sounds like your timing chain might be rattling best get it looked at.
  10. fuel filter been checked ? when was it last changed Any chance of fuel contamination or wrong fueling ?
  11. I used Wynns electrical contact cleaner to complete restore the OBC buttons. could be the switch on the clutch pedal if cruise is completely inopervative,
  12. Just to help clear up or add more confusion to the front shock size issue 50mm shocks have the part number 1K0 XXX XXX B 55MM Shocks are 1T0 XXX XXX A
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