rbertnitro

Good evening everyone. Ive decided that my rear calipers are needing a refresh as they are sticking. Purchased a rebuild kit with all seals and pistons, Everything looks good except the pistons. The inside of the piston is a smooth bore and then goes down to a smaller diameter at bottom i was expecting to see some sort of central pole with threads that screws on to the handbrake adjuster screw in the caliper. Cant find pics of vrs ones online but every golf and tt or a3 ones i have seen have had a female thread part in there. Can anyone help are these the correct pistons or is there a part that needs transfered from inside the stock pistons? Id like to find out the deal before i remove the old ones. Cheers for any advice

Funny you say as i have had 17705 (pressure loss between turbo and tb if i remember) but its only been a couple of times, nothing specific apart from its only showing up when im using the mbc as a bandaid to acheive at least stock boost.another curious thing is my sai pump doesnt run at all now but i never get any sai incorrect flow faults.

Im using the std vrs one i also have a year old 007p and theres not much difference between the 2 when fitted.

I made myself a little diy pressure testing setup with a small compressor to check for leaks none found.i do still have a pssssst sound when im under heavy load from left side but im at a loss where its from as no leaks and holds boost with a manual valve.

Hi ive run into a strange problem with boosting on my auq it appears to not like n75 valves.it started doing only 5psi a couple months ago from cold but since it only happened a couple times i wasnt concerned since then i had a stage 1 map on it and now wont achieve over spring pressure at all. Ive checked it can achieve boost using a cheap mbc and im using that as a bandaid at 10psi while i sort this out. Tried several n75s all f type valves a couple out of used but previously proper boosting auqs and a brand new one albeit a non oem copy valve. Result was none of them produced more than limp pressures done a check on vagcom and sure enough with the new stage 1 map its requesting 2085mbar which i think equates to around 16psi or so, i also checked the n75 dc in vagcom and the numbers seem to be ramping up to high 90s.im not sure of any other way to go about testing n75s. Also after the map i constantly get a 17704 cooling system fault even after changing cts and stat for oem items i get this code right away at startup and it only allows me to clear after 10mins of running.on vagcom temp reports fine holding at between 85-90 constant.then the next day there it is again code pops up right on power up. I know my turbo is producing boost ok as the manual valve allows me to set boost as i please but i dont want to run with this forever as its got bad drivability also i done a diy pump test for boost leaks and none apparent (i replaced a lot of pvc stuff last year along with coils and plugs) actual boost also seems to be reporting identical to guage in vagcom and maf readings as far a max goes seem in line at 142gs when i use 10psi.i would have expected some response even if its surging from the valves ive tried but its just constant 5psi from them all. Any help and guidence would be great if anyone knows whats going on here thanks

is there any sort of guide to testing the mafs values with a multimeter id like to be more sure.

my idle wasnt the problem originaly.it was only when i initialy unplugged the maf that idle was rough.when the maf is plugged in and its surging and limping it idles great infact it drives perfectly in the vacuum to 0psi range.only when boost starts to come it goes nuts. now when i unplug my maf a second time it idles great and drives thru the whole range inc boost perfect just slower.i think i may need to rig up some kind off pressure tester using a bike pump or small compressor to check for further leaks cause theres not much to see just by eyeballing it tbh

before.when i unplugged it to test it started and idled rough drove alright but still did its strange boost all over the place thing,it calmed down a bit once i got to work that day but still unsettled at idle.havent drove it at all most of weekend.then when i have the plug off again its smooth and better psi is only peaking at 8 or so,lower power but no mad spiking and surging like before.i can only assume its possibly adapted a little to having the maf unplugged. it still goes ape when i plug it in tho. didnt do anything else apart from a scan with torque android app and the blutooth dongle

so im waiting for my vcds cable to arrive.decided this weekend to clean the maf see what that done since its free.anyway cleaned it as best i could with a can of maf cleaner then put it back in.however forgot to connect the plug took it for a run and now it actualy runs better with the maf unplugged.im puzzled as before it ran crap with it unplugged.post clean its still **** with it plugged in but now whenever its unplugged it running better and smoother albeit with reduced power and midrange.im more and more thinking of just ordering a maf even though i havent vagcom logged it yet.anyone chime in with thoughts?

oh well worth a try.i may order one anyway as going by the vag cars ive had in past im no stranger to having to fit new coolant sensors to them

yeah thats my next port of call as i believe vagcom is better at finding all the codes than these generic obd scanners.in fact at only 99dollars (65pound near enuf) for the full registration of the older version i may just get it myself. Could be worth a shot but is it possible that the coolant temp sensor from my mk3 vr6 is the same and would fit this engine? ive got loads of spares laying around for the vr6 and if anything is compatible between the two i could shove it in right away as my mk3 has the engine out just now so not needing them immediately

quick update.tried unplugging maf this morning on way to work= inconclusive. only a 3mile drive but id say it ran a little worse with it off.struggled to start initialy and idle was all over the place not as much punch performance wise and just seemed generaly worse.i did notice the boost was slightly lower but it was still doing its odd ramping up way high,hesitating and then dropping like a rock down to about 3psi. with the maf in it accelerates and boosts fine if im carefull with the throttle and gentle with it going on smooth and slow.but a slight 1mm more pedal on high gear high load (hills) situatuons and its whooshing like a leaf blower and going nowwhere.boost spikes up then throws a wobbly and plummets to 3 or 4psi. closer inspection earlier i did notice i had a small split in a oil breather,its the one that comes off the y camcover piece and goes down i to the block its split just before it goes into the connection lower in the block. would this split cause such crazy running and boost probs i thought these breathers didnt see boost in them?gona get it temp fixed up for now while i order the replacement. and find someone to vagcom my car

right thanks.il have to find someone local with a copy of vagcom then.eliminate the tb at least

right i will certainly try the maf off anyway.only other things i could think of were it might need a throttle alignment as the battery was off for some time while i was fixing door control module wires.also when is boost supposed to start as i can be light on throttle and itl be in vacumm or 0psi rite up to high revs and a decent speed its only when i take a chunk of pedal like 1/2 throttle or more the psi starts to climb above 0

thanks yellowcar no ive not tried mafless i will give it a try in the morning.yes thats right up to about 10psi on my gauge altho id assume it would have a bit of an error margin as its a £10 gauge.not been mapped that i know of prev owner didnt say.i got the gauge after all this started but when i got it was very quick quite a bit faster under 100 than my mk3 vr6 so could have been mapped and now its running crap but i doubt it as its refusing to go over 10psi. would unpluggi g coolant sensor prove anything?

forgot to add no codes on handheld scanner apart from boost limit exceeded that happend when i disconected the n75 wg feed briefly to make sure i could achieve full boost

hi ive been chasing an intermitent hesitation/soft limp issue for a while.decided to try changing n75 see if that helped first off tried a mates f valve that he had 'modded' basicaly hed turned the end screw in whatever direction to give better boost onset or whatever wasnt much diffrence same on/off hesitation when pedal floored,also tried a controversial j valve he had laying around....worse spiking and limping all over the place.next got a new one online standard f valve this time.has reduced the previous hesitation altho im left with even wierder boosting now.normal up to 10 (going by my gauge) then bouncing down to 5-6 and bouncing around there.at the same time ever since i tried his modded f valve ive heard the turbo whooshing a lot more checked for leaks and none to the eye anyway.its really loud.also when accelerating i have to kinda go carefully and gradualy on the throttle up to full.if i stomp on it for example in 3rd at 2000rpm the boost will start rising up to max with the loud whoosh but the car just doesnt move itl increase speed slightly up until the revs get higher (almost 4k) then itl boost and accelerate away,before all this the throttle was a hair trigger and would pounce forward and accelerate nicely and smooth doing the same.i know i have max boost at the mani by my gauge its almost like its not putting fuel in until my revs are up to 4k just blowing air.ive checked for any major leaks and all vac connections etc nothing major found.ive also swapped out the dv for a new std one. could anyone offer any help please. thanks rob

thanks for the reply. i will try and lube it up after work today.it seems to have came off deadlock mode by itsef. tried to poke around in the barrel this morning with a small drill bit to try get the crap out of there so i can use the key,snapped said drill bit inside,so now the key will never go in,however after that the inside handle was working again so at least its opened.hope it stays off deadlock enough for me to get the card off and investigate.

hi having some annoying drivers door gemlins. started after i had the card off to try fix a non functioning drivers power window found a broken wire in the a pillar and the multiplug in the door was crusty so fixed that up and all was good.now 2 days later central locking on drivers door was getting lazy needed 2 or 3 lock/unlock attempts on remote,today door refuses to function at all no unlock from remote, inside when pulling the handle all it does is raise the pin in the door then when i let go the pin drops again door wont open any way inside or out manualy or with remote.what could be going on now that the interior hamdle wont open it? i know for sure the cable and hook is attached cause there is pressure and the pin goes up when you pull it it just doesnt stay up and seems to fall back down under spring pressure.its seeming like a mechanical issue now as all other windows and doors are perfect and this offending door you can hear the lock mech trying to do something when the remote or the interior lock unlock buttons are pressed.help please. ps. cant confirm if will open using key from outside as barrel is all siezed up. thanks

how would i go about confirming a wonky diff without taking the box apart? i still have 2 fresh front bearings in shed as spares it might be worth trying them just incase

no thats whats kind of steering me away from gearbox as its the same in all gears clutch in or out and even in neutral coasting.no knocking just an odd whirring and then a whine higher up in speed.

Evening. Looking for some folks input on this. Theres been a nasty rumbly noise from the front for a while.i put it down to tyres as they were quite old and all diffrent budget brands.Popped on 4 decent new tyres and the rumbly loud road noise at 50mph has gone. However now im left with what can only be described as an old washing machine spinning up, Its unnoticeable below 30mph then as it reaches toward 40 it sounds kinda deep and rumbly spinning up to about 55-60mph where the sound is almost like a high pitched gear whine. on deceleration the noise sounds almost like a car after a dyno run and the thing is spinning down. I thought gearbox but im thinking not now as the sound is changing with steering,worse on a right hander quieter on a left, indicating a possible left side bearing. Prob is both front bearings were done only 3months ago. everything seems fine down there only thing is a small tracking of grease on inside of wheel arch liner around area of cv, i closely inspected the boot and its in good nick and no splits whatsoever as are the other ones in and out.pinhole possibly? only other issue were when i done the bearings i reused the old hubs and the left one ended up with a small nick when i was cutting off the inner race but were talking small here ie less than 1mm deep and 10mm long. Cant think of anything else as this is a really unusual noise that changes as it moves and not ur typical bearing drone thing. Does anybody have any ideas about where my problem is or could detail the various symptoms of diff bearing failure. Thanks.

thats handy to know so it would be no use using a part from a scrappers or a 2nd hand jobby. i seem to remember something i had to do on the vr6 switch like pulling the plunger all the way out to its 'ready' position and then let the pedal set it itself when fitted

yeah cheers. think il investigate the brake thing further as ive had the fault code in the past a few times. in the mean time i will give the tb a good clean see what that does

this is interesting as my car was showing a brake light code before.there was no prob with the actual lights functioning and the pedal switch seemed ok.the code just disapeared after clearing but has came up a couple times since and disapeared again after clearing. Does this fault have any connection to acceleration issues?