xantiaman

it is the toe that the machine recognised as needing adjustment as the picture on the machine was red

after lots off google searching the way to adjust the rear alignment on the octavia 4x4 is to loosen the bolts holding the cup that houses the bush at the front of the arm and tap the cup to adjust then tighten.

i dont know where these bolts are either but i do know the rear adjustment is possible on the 4x4 and its not adjustable arms from what the bloke described what ever is adjusted is bolted to the chassis the bolts are loosened then the adjustments are made and the bolts tightened up again.

hi all after changing shocks bushes links etc etc front and rear on my 1.8t 4x4 i took the car to have the 4 wheel tracking done, the chap at the garage informed me that the bolts that need to be undone to be able to adjust the rear wheels were in his words "murder tight" and that he would have a go but would not force them as he feared the bolts may snap which would mean a sick octavia taking up a ramp that would need bolts drilling out and re tapping, also heat could not be used as this would melt the rubber bush.has anybody else come across this? i have found a receipt in the service book for 4 wheel tracking with adjustment front and rear from kwik fit from some time ago so the bolts must have been undone at sometime but i presume they maybe have been over tightened after adjustment.is the garage guy just bieng a bit of a girl or is his judgement justified? i would imagine that these bolts would be quite robust considering the job they do.any advice?

hi all i realise that the mk1 octy has odd seat runners but is this the only reason that other octy seats wont fit or is it physical size? i havnt had a proper look yet but surly if the runners/frame could be removed from a mk1 seat could something not be fabricated to adapt them to fit say mk2 or later seats which are more readily available?

hi all im hoping someone can shed some light on a starting problem im having.car will start as normal for a week or two then will just crank over to slow to start, replaced the battery a month ago under warrenty thinking it was that but it obviously isnt.i have no charging light on the dash and indeed when it is running i have 14v showing on the tester, everything works as they should lights windows etc it just wont crank fast enough to start.i have taken the battery off the car and it is showing 12.6v.if jumped evrything is well for a week or so when it will do it again.could it be the starter?

hi all i have just received my ta technix strut brace which seems ok and on initial offering up seems to fit ok but apart from the two piece brace and the nuts and bolts there is also a meta plate with four holes in it the holes are too small for the bolts to pass through and i cant seem to fathom out what it is for... any ideas?

thanks guys off to halfords before i start it is then.

hi all going to change my inner tie rods tomorrow, got the tool etc etc but what i need to know is on refitting the steering rack gaitor (the old one not a new one) is it ok to use jubilee clips to fasten it on?

hi all i know where the relays are located but can someone tell me which is what please.the car is a 1.8t 4x4 on a 02 plate.

hi all the car is a 1.8t 4x4 on a 02 plate arx engine. i need to change the maf sensor as the present one is a bit erratic. the part number on the housing is 0 280 218 060 but if i put this into search engines it doesnt appear to be correct for my car. eurocarparts, micks garage, misterauto, gsf etc etc all quote 0 280 218 063 as being correct for this engine.any tech gurus out there?. the car runs well except for the hiccups at high rpm which a lot of owners seem to experience . i have worked my way through the usual suspects eg all breathers replaced with samco hose plugs (genuine) coil packs (beru). throttle body clean. inlet gaskets etc etc but cant get rid of this hiccup.i have no eml light on and it has been on vagcom with nothing seemingly amiss. maf sensor next then n75 valve then give up and live with it.

i've sussed it. After checking all the hoses and fuses i thought to myself what is the code actually telling me...incorrect flow detected..so deciding that the only thing different i had done was fit a small breather type filter to the sai hose i started there. the filter was clean so it wasnt that but if i blew through the inlet of the filter i had to blow quite hard to feel breath coming out the filter itself.the hole in the inlet pipe was quite small bore and deducing that the sai pipe is quite large bore i wondered if that was the problem.so i drilled out the filter inlet pipe as big as i dared, now blowing through it produced masses of hot breath through the filter.refitting the filter and resetting the eml light has provided the best part of 300 miles with no light.i can only presume that the small bore breather filter inlet was restricting the flow of air to the sai.

not sure i will have a good look tomorrow.its quite a long pipe thats clamped tight about half way down but i will double check.the only thing thats really been disturbed is the air filter end.still who knows.thanks

hi all i recently changed the air filter on my 1.8t 4x4 for a k&n cone one, car goes well but after a mile or two the code 16795 Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected flagged up. i cleared the code but again after a mile or two it came back on, it hasnt affected performance but its anoying. i have fitted a small breather type air filter to the secondary air pump hose that went into the original air box. i had a piper cross foam cone filter on before with the same breather filter fitted and it was fine. any ideas

hi all about 2 months ago, say 1500 miles i changed the coil packs and spark plugs on my 4x4 1.8t octavia arx engine, the plugs are NGKPFR6Q. i just chucked them in without checking the gaps as i was under the (false) impression that the gap is always set at the factory. having noticed recently that performance was dropping off, just a tad not much, i started to read of possible causes on this forum, the odd thread or 2 suggested that spark plug gap should always be checked from the box so today i removed the plugs and checked the gaps looking for 0.32...kin hell with the feeler gauge on 0.32 i could see daylight between the feelers and the electrode, i mean they were at least 0.40... no surprise that performance had dropped off abit. resetting the gap has improved the drive no end. it just goes to show that sometimes its the little things that get overlooked that can be the cause of the problem.