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fzrkev

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    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, cricket, TV, rugby and tormenting my daughters.
  • Location
    edinburgh

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  • Model
    16' Octavia 1.4 TSI se l.

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  1. Thanks for that. I did think that was the case, but wasn't sure. The reason I ask is I'm not sure if I need a new clutch kit. The dealersays the never replace flywheels on them, but I think the previous owner has scorched it. If I try and hold the car on the bite point, or move slightly using only the idle power, I get a lumpy juddery kind of feeling through the car in time with the power pulses. Feels odd, but I can't remember any old car (pre DMF) I've owned doing that. It certainly feels odd compared to our previous Fabia 1.2 TSI.
  2. Morning oh fountain of knowledge. Does anyone happen to know whether a 16 plate manual 1.4 TSI 150 would have a DMF or SMF? I can't seem to find anything conclusive online. The only clue I've found is that autodoc list 2 clutch kits, one significantly healer than the other. Cheers. Kevin.
  3. Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Reading this reminds me that I have exactly the same issue with our 1.2tsi 90 fab. Was told it was normal and I needed to adapt. Well, I've tried and almost got it after 2 years. Slow moving traffic is still a bunny hop magnet though. Anyway, we were looking at changing to a Karoq, and found this thread. Same issue methinks!
  4. Injectors ticking. Well known noise.
  5. New road tax rates for one! Buy a new 1.0tsi fabia (new band e, 91-100 g/km co2) and pay £120 first year and £140 thereafter P/a. Or, buy a used 1.2tsi (old band b, 101-110 g/km co2) and pay £20 P/a. You'd also most likely get approved used warranty too. I think small used efficient cars will be in huge demand because of the new VED rates.
  6. And so it continues..... Skoda technical called the dealer not long after I was in the last time to enquire about this fault. When in this time, they asked to be sent the video I took and also pictures of the pads and discs. They know there's an issue but no fix for me until a service bulletin is released. At least it's being investigated. Back to squeaking down the road, for now at least.
  7. Might have to point their M.T. to you then. Do you have a contact I can give him?
  8. We'll just have to see what they say this time. The master tech seems a good lad. We're on first name terms now that I've been out that much. The two previous "fixes" he said were sure to work as he's had this fault before and it worked. Also mentioned a new spec pad which is what was fitted. Hey ho.
  9. West End Garage in Edinburgh. To be fair, they've always been excellent. I've had loads of issues with cars and they've always gone above and beyond to resolve issues. To the point where I was so impressed with the customer service, I enquired about a job. I've no doubt it'll get sorted, I've just got to go through the procedural chain and jump the hoops til it's fixed. Just annoying!
  10. 2 trips to dealer and still squealing. New pads done and took away to do "running in procedure. Oh well, back we go! :(
  11. Sounds awfully like a DMF failure. Is it hard to get in gear?
  12. Yup, 2 days it took for mine to start squealing again. It's only the front right though. Back we go again!
  13. They will look under warranty as it's a known issue. Just had mine done, although it's still there. The first step, which according to their master tech usually sorts it, is a change to a different type of pads. Personally, I think it's more likely the caliper as the wear on the disc just doesn't look like it's getting even pressure across the width of the pad.
  14. Ours is the same. Usually creaks just to the right of the clock binnacle. Fine when warmed up. I put it down to plastics contracting slightly. Remember that the car will be assembled in an air conditioned factory at about 18-20°, so all the gaps will be set to be correct at that temp. When it's -1° outside I'd say a little creaking until all the gaps tighten up would be very normal.
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