very452001

Cut a long story short, I get straight to the point as its kind of a emergency I guess: I lost my car keys. Car parked at my mates living in a council tower block flats. So it's not a private car park but a council public car park where people living there park their cars. I don't see any permits on car windows or any limited time parking signs there. My mate lives couple of hours drive away from me. I know a local recovery company to where I live that can recover the car back to me from my mates and cut a new key and reprogram the chip much cheaper than the quotes I had from my mates local recovery companies. Beginner questions: Where are the tow hook locations on the car? The only recovery option available is a recovery truck with a winch? Will hooking a winch to one of the tow hooks on the car with the car handbrake still on cause any damage to the car while winching it up on the truck? Will I be in trouble with the council for parking my car there for long periods of time?

Ok mate cheers for your help. I was just trying to make sense of it all. Don't have access to VCDS/VAG or let alone start the car to drive to one who has. Plus it is expensive to buy for £300 just for a CD and USB wire for a laptop. If anyone likes to borrow me their VCDS then please feel free to post it or come visit. Starts stopwatch 😥

It's still hard to believe for example that a faulty DDM Driver door module that controls electric windows, electric door mirrors etc. can cause a car not to start at all. I heard from a post on these forums that if a traction control module or a ABS module becomes faulty then the car still becomes driveable except ABS braking or traction just won't work while driving but still car starts and drives right? Hence why I say it's hard to believe that 1 module or control unit whatever you wanna call it can bring the whole car system down turning a car into a giant paper weight.

Hi mate did you ran the diagnostic on VCDS?

Do you mean sensors? Yeah i remember seeing on his screen all showing ok including ABS is ok just communicating with the main ECU is not ok. Ok lets say for argument sake that the the headlight leveling ECU is faulty, do you mean the headlight sensor is faulty or the wiring to headlight ECU is faulty or the the actual headlight ECU is faulty? And if so if any of these are faulty then you telling me that this can cause a car not to start at all which is hard to believe?

I thought the car has 1 ECU. What are these other ECU's in the car you talking about?

Ok AA breakdown guy came out and found no stored codes however there's 1 problem showing on his tablet screen and that is there's a communication problem with the ECU. He checked all fuses and relays and checked visually for wiring issues for wires viewable at 1st glance in the engine bay but couldn't find any. So he said its most likely ECU needs replacing and second most likely is issue with the wiring to the ECU however he said finding a fault like a kink in wire for example in the whole wiring harness in the car will require whole engine parts stripping out to trace and investigate the paths of all these wires which sounds more complicated that just swapping out the ECU. So to investigate this wiring diagram requires a whole lot of parts needed to be stripped out to fully investigate and trace path each wire which sounds like a lot of man hours that equals a lot of £££? I ask because my car when it was working was worth like around a grand I say so the $64000 dollar final question is that is it worth fixing? Otherwise is it a good idea to send off a ECU off for repair or get a replacement used ECU? How much are new ones? When sending off ECU off for repair does it still require reprogramming? When putting a replacement used ECU in then what requires reprogramming and any hardware parts needs replacing to reflect this? Are new ECU's from dealership or from a new stockist compatible with my car straight away and won't require reprogramming because part numbers match with old ecu and new ecu?

Ok AA breakdown guy came out and found no stored codes however there's 1 problem showing on his tablet screen and that is there's a communication problem with the ECU. He checked all fuses and relays and checked visually for wiring issues for wires viewable at 1st glance in the engine bay but couldn't find any. So he said its most likely ECU needs replacing and second most likely is issue with the wiring to the ECU however he said finding a fault like a kink in wire for example in the whole wiring harness in the car will require whole engine parts stripping out to trace and investigate the paths of all these wires which sounds more complicated that just swapping out the ECU. So to investigate this wiring diagram requires a whole lot of parts needed to be stripped out to fully investigate and trace path each wire which sounds like a lot of man hours that equals a lot of £££? I ask because my car when it was working was worth like around a grand I say so the $64000 dollar final question is that is it worth fixing?

Ok when you say disconnect do you mean the disconnect the battery 1st otherwise how do you disconnect individual modules? Does anyone have the wiring diagram for 2006 Skoda Octavia 1.6 Petrol? Engine code is BLF 118029

Ok so all in all about about 5 or 6 wires correct? Are these wires are easy to replace just where the the actual ecu is under the windscreen wiper? I believe most likely i have the same problem as the OP as his and my symptoms are similar.

Ok can these be checked simply with a multimeter or what tools/equipment is needed? What can cause high resistance faults? If it the ECU wiring that is faulty then is it a easy cheap job or a complicated one where all wires from ECU to all points in the car that needs to be replaced that is metres and metres of the stuff or tracing all the wiring paths and looms and the wiring harnessing etc?

Ok is ECU wiring the best case scenario and the actual ECU is the worst case scenario when it comes to costs of fixing? Also how to determine whether its the ECU wiring or the actual ECU is faulty? If it is a intermittent problem that is car sometimes drives or a permanent problem where car doesn't start at all then which one suits faulty ECU wiring and faulty ECU? Last thing I want to do is spend £hundreds on a replacement ECU only to find out at the end that it was just the ECU wiring you know what I mean. I have similar problem to OP and my car is a 1.6 petrol. EGR is for diesels?

Ok latest update is I replaced the Battery and the ECU relay with a brand new ones however still the same problem 😭. Do you have the link to the new thread?

Ok latest update is I replaced the Battery and the ECU relay with a brand new ones however still the same problem 😭

Ok latest update is I replaced the Battery and the ECU relay with a brand new ones however still the same problem 😭

Ok cheers.

Ok from all of this is TL774-D/F safe to use for my car?

I see in my car the existing coolant is pink though. Is it safe to use the G30 coolant I found or does it has to be the G13 purple? Summer coming I thought I can top it up a bit you know.

Code on bottle is TL774-D/F. The pinkish stuff. For 2006 Skoda Octavia II 1.6 Petrol Engine code: BLF

Ok I thought relays are general car items like engine oil where every local auto parts store stock them. The responses here make me assume it's not a common item and requires special order just for 1 small relay.

Ok anymore uk sites or just Listers? I click on the above site and I can't seem to browse the shop.

Ok cool so these generic universal ones I assume are fine to use? A generic 100 relay will be the same quality as a 100 relay from a skoda dealership?

Any available in the UK?

Hi, Does anyone know where to buy car relays and strip-fuses from the same place? Does it have to be the official VAG group one or can I go to my local car parts store and buy a generic one from there? Finally will generic ones cause any problems or compatibility issues and which known brands shall I avoid and if is there any quality concerns from china if I buy chinese electrical parts?

Ok what do you think the next most possible fault is in meantime while I try to sort out a VCDS?