Sydney

You could try the EGR . Read my post . I had one that didn't bring up fault codes but would intermittently stick.

I agree, but as capable as my Octy is, I still have a little niggle, if anyone can shed any light on it????? If Im accelerating up a hill at high speed ,say 4th 5th or even 6th. nailing it, with my foot flat down if the car lifts off because a lump in the road, or on the brow of a hill, I get a strange sound from the front right corner. It sounds like something is binding or rubbing. Its a bit weird. I suspect an engine mount or the dog-bone. Has anyone else experienced this? If I don't get to the bottom of it, I wont lose any sleep because I don't often drive aggressively, but it would be nice to know.

Hi Claudiu2s Mine is a BMM engine code . All the EGR valves vary in how they look and fit. Mine is at the back of the engine next to the throttle body. The part number is cast into it .On mine its 03G131502, It removes with 3x torx head bolts, though they weren't easy to get to. Rear propshaft coupling was also off ebay. Made by Febi Bilstien Part number is 40857

I bought an Octy Scout a couple of years ago and I have had an issue with it ever since. I trawled the internet for answers, including this site but nothing seemed to add up. The car is a 2008 with the BMM engine and DPF exhaust system. When accelerating steadily in second or third gear at about 1800 revs, the car would judder and hesitate before continuing to accelerate. If it was a petrol car, you would assume that you had crap in the fuel. The problem is, it wouldn’t do it all of the time. In fact you couldn’t make the car do it (especially when you had a mechanic in the passenger seat).On top of this, I was experiencing all kinds of vibrations and wooshing sounds coming and going through various driving conditions. On the brow of a hill when barely on the throttle, in fourth, at just over 30mph the car juddered violently, but again, would only do it occasionally. This car was sold to me by a main dealer. When I described the car that I was looking for, I was told that they were rare and that I would do well to find one. When I got home, they rang me , having magically found one. I told them that I would need it servicing and to replace the aircon condenser which was obviously stuffed. Given the way that the deal went down, I have since concluded that this was a problem car that they could never get the gremlins out of. The truth is there was no quick fix, but several small problems, that all contributed to the odd way that this car drove. Problem one; These cars do not like to be driven at 30mph in fourth, especially up hill. The gearing issue with my car was made far worse because the previous owner had fitted the wrong size tyres to all of the wheels!. I would have done better to check. When I did the first tyre change, I changed the front ones, only to hear a terrible noise coming from the Haldex going up hill! I quickly realised what was going on, given that now, the rolling circumference on the back was bigger than that of the front wheels. Never assume that all is correct , even from a main dealer. Problem Two: The juddering from the engine was amplified through the transmission to a rubber coupling on the Haldex end of the propshaft. The play in this perished part caused the juddering to be amplified. Solution? Change the coupling. It cost about £100. and two of us around 1 and a half hours standing under the car. Problem three: When changing the fuel filter, I noticed that the fuel was dirty. A bit of asking around, and I found that the most likely culprit was the Tandem pump. Delivered from Germany for £200.00 and fitted for £20.00 At this point, the car ran almost perfect for most of the time but would still judder, perhaps once a week. It still didn’t feel comfortable at low revs and it still made weird noises. I took a guess to resolve this (Problem number four). I Changed the EGR valve which was in fact sticking, because of the constantly dirty fuel. I dropped a bottle of additive in the fuel and hey presto, it runs perfectly. The Valve was £84.00 off the tinternet. Most people wouldn’t have stuck with this car, but I was desperate to love this as much as my old A4 sport. It will never drive like an Audi, but to be fair, the Scouts four wheel drive capability makes it better than my two wheel drive Audi in the winter. I believe that VAG cars have their issue like any other makes, but they never fail to get me home and always warn you that something is wrong. I have fitted 16 inch steels with winter tyres, for the bad whether to come, making sure that the rolling circumference is correct. All is well. I hope that this helps someone. It’s been quite a journey. Just remember, none of these issues came up as faults on the cars computer.

Am I missing something or isn't an Octy scout basically a 4wd golf. I have a 2008 one. I believe that if you take the DPF off it and remap it , you could get 200 horses+ Look on Darkside developments.

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hi Mango, I would guess that you would have to get to the old one before you could identify it. Production lines often fit the one they have in stock at the time.

Hi Mango,

I'm not usually the sort to join in forums but I find them incredibly useful for info. Having always had Golfs and Passats in the past I bought an Octy Scout 2007 last year with 90k on the clock. It has always driven like it was tired with all kinds of noises and grumbles under load. The forums on this site attribute such problems to DMF and various other common themes. After 12 months of ownership, I have changed the gearbox , Diff and Haldex oils . every filter known to man and was still less than satisfied with the general feel of the car. Various friends and mechanics drove it and told me that I was paranoid. The last lot, having re-gened my DPF and fitted an new sensor told me that I would never be happy because my other car is an A4 sport and the quality disparity was massive . As a matter of course I changed the front tyres for some decent Good year Eagle F1s. Under load the gear box made more noise than ever. It was then that I realised that the back end was fighting the front. The car had had the wrong size tyres on all along. When I changed the front, the rears now had a larger rolling circumference. This compromised the central Diff. I have now fitted the correct tyres to the back as well. Wow . What a difference. I know that with hind sight it should have been obvious but simply taking off 225/50/17 Chang Shen suicide tyres and putting on 225/45/17 Eagles , the car is transformed. No longer does it complain at being in fourth gear at 30mph. No longer are there underlying shudders and vibrations under load. This car is born again. I am so impressed that I have just bought a set of steelies for winter and a set of winter tyres. I have had to have 16 inch because they don't make 17 inch steel wheels. I have been very careful to make the rolling circumference almost identical though for my winter tyres. The spare is a 205/55/16 and this is what I have specified for my winter rubber, opting for Good year Ultra grip 9s. The moral of the story is, when you buy a car, be very careful what subtle non standard changes could have been done . Among other things I have changed a cheap aftermarket cv boot, and noticed pen marks when changing the timing belt which obviously indicates that the last guy who did it didn't have all of the correct tooling.