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What type of hub nut came with your new CV joint, and what torque procedure did you use to tighten it? I just had the same problem after changing a CV joint. The new one came with a hex nut, didn't realise they torqued differently to the standard 12 point nut, so I used the procedure in the Haynes manual and it pulled to the left horribly. I bought a replacement 12 point nut and now it's fine. You say it does it when not accelerating too so maybe something else, but this gotcha'd me so worth asking...

Update: I decided to buy a couple of spare 12 point nuts, they arrived on Friday. Fitted one yesterday, torqued as per Haynes and it is *much* better. Still pulls a little under heavy throttle, I'm putting it down to either the nasty tyre on that side (will be replacing the fronts shortly) or possibly my torque wrench not being 100%

I assumed so when I bought it I've been using the place for 30 years and never had a problem (LT Motors in Stockton). Joint is a Shaftec CV351N which is suitable according to the compatability list here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193465607960

Just googling some more... I followed the procedure in Haynes for tightening the hub nut which matches what I've read on the internet for the 12 point hub nut. People seem to be suggesting things are different for a hex nut which is what came with my new CV joint, but I cannot find consistent information for it, just a variety of torque numbers for the vehicle on and off the ground, and some Bentley procedure. Is this the case, if it is, then could this be the issue, and what is the correct procedure for torquing a hex hub nut?

Hopefully not the case, the car was spot on before I did it (CV aside)

Could be they got it wrong. Local company, literally just down the road from me. They've been there 40-odd years and I've used them for various reasons in the past but maybe not for an alignment. I lowered the car about five years ago and got it aligned at a different place (and they did a good job), I reckon I'll pop in there tomorrow and get a second opinion...

Argh! Something is wrong somewhere, I took the car in for alignment just now and the problem is still there; still pulling left under throttle... It feels like there is only drive on one side, is it possible I've e.g. popped or otherwise shagged the inner CV when I've been messing about or something?

Doh, of course it'll need tracking, I tinkered with the bottom arm ball joint...

Definitely the CV joint. I've finally got round to replacing it and the noise has gone. I had to remove the whole driveshaft in the end and grind the CV joint to get to the circlip. I got the shaft out by undoing the steering arm ball joint and three bolts to the bottom arm, and knocking the hub off the CV joint. Then the six bolts on the other end. Slight problem now: the car pulls to the left under acceleration (the side with the dodgy CV). Everything screwed together ok, nuts and bolts are torqued to the settings as per Haynes. What could I have done wrong?

Thanks, good to know! I'll have a look when it's not wet

Does the CV joint rattle regardless of which direction I'm turning? This is only happening when I'm turning right.

I'll have a look at that when it isn't so wet, thanks. Exhaust is stainless, at least if that's the problem it has a lifetime guarantee iirc

Can't reproduce it when the car is parked. I took it out just now and managed to record the noise it makes, you can hear it here, at about 7 seconds in when I pull out of a junction and again at about 18 seconds CV joint?

Hmm, not so much a cracking, it sounds more creaky. I'll see if I can get a recording of it, not sure how well it'll pick up though.

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction please? My Octavia is making an unfamiliar noise from the front passenger corner, but only when I am turning right and have some throttle. If I eg coast around the corner or roundabout then it doesn't make the noise. The noise is a little hard for me to describe, it sounds like it is creaky. Not like a spring, and it isn't a grinding/knocking/rattling. I'm thinking strut top mount? But I'm not familiar with the symptoms or noises this may cause so wanted to get some advice before just trying to dive in...

Yup oil is good though due a change soon... I just took it out for a couple of runs up and down the dual carriageway to get fully up to temperature. The gauge got up to 90 and then no more, which is what is has always done. I ran the heater the whole time and no smell. When I got back I checked the coolant level and there'd been no light and no loss. I'll just keep an eye on it over the next few days and see what it does. Still wondering where it is/was going though lol

2004 167k PD130 I've had a slightly leaky heater matrix (coolant smell in the car when the heater is being used), and the coolant level warning displaying. 15 year old car, I didn't fancy paying loads in garage labour or spending a whole day getting the dash in and out so I chucked some radweld in and topped the coolant off yesterday, then drove for a while with the heater turned up. This morning, I thought I'd run the car and see if the smell had gone. When I popped the bonnet I noticed the coolant had dropped to just below the minimum. Odd, but I topped it up and ran the car stationary until the heater started to warm up. Some smell at first, then it faded away. After a few minutes, the coolant light came on again. I checked the header tank and the coolant had dropped back down to below the minimum. No fluid under the car, no steam out the exhaust, no moisture that I can see inside the car and nothing in the oil. I'm going to top it up again and take it for a drive at lunchtime, but does anyone know where the coolant might have gone?

Been a while, still haven't got around to checking... I've got a new problem with the car so might as well look at both things while I'm on. BTW, I've removed the rear wiper motor, so the washer is never used. I'll still check though

The HRW does work, but seems to take quite a long time to clear; coincidence? I'll check those connectors out in the morning.

My high level brake light does not come on when I press the brake pedal. I've popped out the light bar, connected it to a 12v supply and the bulbs come on so I know the bar is fine. I've checked the fuse diagram which only shows a fuse for 'brake lights'. The two body-level brake lights are working fine so doubting it's that fuse. Any ideas what the problem could be?

Yesterday and today, my 04 PD130 has had trouble starting after being left overnight and I need to jump it off with a booster battery. After being run for a while it will restart fine. This morning, same thing. I haven't left the lights on :) While the engine is on, Torque shows 14.6v (not sure how reliable this is) and 13v when switched off, after is has been for a run. I didn't think to check the reading when it wasn't starting. At the same time, my key has been playing up. The red light on it sometimes stays on and I need to pop it open which resets it. I'm guessing a new battery for both?

I used CoPilot on mine for ages, but switched to Google Maps for the traffic etc. I just switched my phone's hotspot on so it had internet.

I have fitted a Kenwood KDC-BT710DAB to my Mk1 Octavia; does anyone know which adapter cable I need to connect it to my steering wheel controls? Thanks

Will check, they were replaced a year ago so you never know. More of a 'clink' than a 'clunk' though. Someone suggested console bushes. Haven't tried checking yet though...

Finally managed to get under the car. Not much movement when the throttle is tickled, but is that movement when the engine is switched on normal?