lupoluke

If your still looking I’m located in M31.

Autel scanners seem to be getting a good rep at the minute, how ever I haven’t used one personally. VCDS is the best diag tool for VAG based cars and is worth every penny imo.

I shall PM you.

I have VCDS in Manchester

I didn’t know that was the reason I just always assumed they were stretch bolts with the angle after the torque, you would be surprised how many dealers don’t fit new bolts especially with the fixed pricing, how ever if they ever go wrong warranty would kick it out and the dealer would be left with the bill. id still rather replace tho for a sake of a few quid but that’s just me.

I’m just going off what the manual states. I have done a few also, reusing the old bolts and like your self I’ve never had a problem, but I always advise them to be replaced for the sake of a few quid they cost I would do them personally.

Might be worth noting that the engine mount bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced. I also prefer to took the bottom of the mount out of the way rather than remove it. Id also get a torque wrench if you don’t already have one.

M31 Partington.

I’m in Manchester if you are still looking.

I get where you are coming from When you compare it to the likes of a Mk4 golf. I wouldn’t call the VRS rare, more uncommon and I think that has a lot to do with it, and you don’t realize how uncommon they are especially in half decent nick until your looking to buy one. Cheap ones come up on Facebook all the time if that helps you.

I wouldn’t scrap it I would sell it privately, If you really can’t decide on what you would be happy for it bang it on eBay with a 99p start and no reserve.

It does look like a bad core and the fact they are sending out a replacement with out question suggests they are used to it. Were the VNT blades stripped and cleaned correctly, if it were me I would fit the new core And put a standard map on the car, then I would check the actuator is set up correctly via vcds and adjust if necessary. Run it it like this for a while and if all is well with no issues I would upload the map back on to it. Who mapped it btw?

Sadly there is no miracle cure, first step is to eliminate all moisture. Theres lots of info on this very forum about all the fixes if you search, but here’s some pointers to get you going. Use plumbers gold on the door carrier. Check spare wheel well for water ingress as the boot vents are known to leak. Cheak rear washer pipe for leaks inside the car. Leave the blowers pointed at the floor when left parked at over night. Remove carpets and underlay to dry them out. HTH

Have a look at where the gearbox joins the engine (from underneath) if it has a misting of brake fluid in that area its a good sign the Slave has gone, it doesn’t always become obvious until you’ve got the box out tho.

Only watched about 5 minutes of it and that was enough for me. Just so your aware you can buy a proper hub spreader tool rather than using a chisel, I’ll grab a pic if anyone’s interested. I normally whip the outer cv joint Nut off and bottom ball joint bolts out and they practically fall out.

Sounds like you have the wrong code.

Expect to pay between £300 - £500 depending on where you go and what parts are used. There are quite a few VAG independents near us now Awesome GTI are very good, however they are not a particularly hard belt to do if your handy with the spanners. And as for the clutch I would leave that till it needs doing, it could last another 5 weeks or 5 years depending on how it’s been treated.

They say you should put £400 aside for any repairs when you buy a used car. Have you thought about a Mk4 golf or Octavia, same engine a bit more room for baby stuff and it gives you a bit more to choose from when looking for a cheap one. Theres plenty of cars around for your budget, just a case of waiting around and getting in there first, and I wouldn’t let niggles put you off they are not new cars any more, so your going to find something.

Bump stops aren’t a testable item on an mot, a picky tester may do a manual advise. Price wise it’s at the upper end of the scale but certainly not unreasonable especially from a trader. Also depends what your after, if your going to keep it standard and that car feels right for the sake of £150 I’d buy it. If you are planning to go hybrid ect I would buy one ready done you see some half decent examples floating round for that sort of money.

I would shop around a bit, work always drops off this time of year so you may be able to get it done a bit cheaper. I would say the quote they have given is fairly reasonable tbh. Cheapest option would be to fit It your self with the help of some mechanically minded friends, engines can be had for as little as 100-150 quid. And if the worst comes to the worst and you want it scrapping drop me a PM first as I may take it off your hands.

BumpIng an old thread here, but I'm curious to see if any logs were made with the new side mount.

I think undercarriage translates to chassis over here, overall there fairly solid cars how ever the front suspension arm rear console bushes are prone to failing, these can be upgraded with polybushes or upgraded OEM items. There is a really good thread with all the common things on the mk1 somewhere if you search for it. Here is an SSP on the PD engines different engine code to yours and does have some slight differences but will give you a general idea of how they work. http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf Sump plug is the one with an integrated seal and should be replaced. Hope this helps.

Nothing's better than having the right tools for the job. The auto adjusters are useless on these, you will probably find your self in the same boat in a year or two.

These help a lot if you do them regularly, especially on the bigger stufff.

Was you at the Trafford center a couple of weeks ago, saw a nice red 04 plate in the car park? I highly doubt it requires a new matrix, and the above are good suggestions. Does the car warm up fairly quickly and once it hits 90 does it stay there?