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On my S spec 2014 Superb, the wiring isn't present and it wasn't an option as far as I know. The air-con on the S is not the same as the climate control unit on other models and I've only ever seen the climate control unit available with the three stage heated seat switches. I retrofitted full leather so I'm now going to add switches to hook up the heated seat elements that I transferred over, though there isn't an OEM option, so I'll have to come up with something else.

I don't think anyone does H15 HID bulbs – due to their dual purpose nature, I doubt they'll be available at all. I had SMD LED bulbs for the main beam / DRL H15 bulbs with resistors inline across both circuits. I ended up going back to halogen "xenon match" H15 bulbs as, whilst the DRLs were a nice bright white, the main beam suffered as the LEDs could provide sufficient light projection.

I had digitally controlled AirLift air suspension on an Audi A4 and I do miss it – very handy for visiting friends who live down country lanes whilst having the ability to lower the car when you want to. You could fit air bags on the rear with a small compressor and tank in the boot and use a manual paddle valve to control the height, or one for each rear corner. The Superb shares it's suspension with the Mk5/6 Golf, so this AirLift kit will fit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162048225667 Tanks are about £100 and compressors are around £120 to £200 new. For self-levelling, you could go for an Accuair e-level digital kit: https://accuair.com/airmanagementproducts/e-level-controller-w-touchpad-8 I have coilovers on my Superb to lower it, but using the rear adjustable platforms with the original springs would raise the rear.

How much more info do you need? I gave the details, exact pin numbers & a link to the loom I used The way I hooked everything up has been trouble free for around 8 months now. Here are some photos for reference... The ballasts are tucked in either side of the grill, with everything else routed (relatively) neatly and secured with cable ties. The earth is the capped nut under the washer bottle filler neck, so I extended the cable to use that as I wanted to use an existing earthing point. I guess I could have earthed from the fuse box, thinking about it. Cheers, Matt.

Thanks guys To remove the badges, I poured hot water from the kettle to soften the glue, then used a plastic interior trim removal tool to gently lever up the edge of the letter, adding more hot water if needed. Then I covered the area with a coat of Sticky Stuff Remover, left it for a bit before scraping off the remaining foam adhesive with a plastic membership card (my AA one as it happens). Then I cleaned up the area and gave it a polish with my DA polisher & a coat of wax. I didn't bother with the Columbus – it's boxed up under the stairs waiting for attention. The Android head unit is pretty good. Any problems so far are pretty minor, just some frustrating user interface / user experience design issues (what I do for a living).

Oh right, well I'll wait and see how this new pump gets on. If it needs to go back, I'll ask them about the additive.

I had to make a hole in the dust caps for the wiring. Sorry, I don't have any pics, but I'll take some later if I remember

Oh really? Did you ever get it sorted or is it still making noise?

I dropped my car off with Lookers Skoda in Guildford today as I'm currently working nearby in Woking. They called me earlier and confirmed the water pump will need to be replaced and they are hoping to have it rectified by the end of play tomorrow, all under warranty. When I booked it in, I said I thought it was the water pump and I let them know that the car was modified (wheels, suspension, etc.) Looking forward to handing their 1.0 Citigo back to them

Yep, the VW RNS510 is the same unit as the Skoda Columbus and whatever Seat call their version. The suspension & brakes are the same as the Mk5/6 Golf with 55mm struts, also shared with the Passat, Eos & other models.

That's a good price, I paid around £300 for my Audi A4 (saloon), but that included the front side windows too (a very light smoke tint).

I'm not 100% sure, it depends on the camber adjustment. On my Audi, I was running the maximum negative camber the suspension would allow (over 2 degrees) and it made quite a difference. I haven't checked the Skoda yet, but I'm sure I've seen photos of ET40 9.5" BBS LM replicas on a Superb somewhere.

Just to add, I tried some 15mm spacers on the rear making them effectively ET30, but with the factory camber, the wheels poked out too much. If you use http://www.willtheyfit.com/ you can play with offset and tyres sizes to get an idea of what's possible.

This is mine... 8.5x19" ET45 all round with 235/35/19 tyres, lowered quite a bit on JOM coilovers: I need to check to see if I can adjust the rear camber, but I'm tempted to swap the wheels for some 20s.

Yeah, sorry, BCM as above, Body Control Module Skoda refer to it as J519 on their paperwork. It's under the dash, under the steering column. The first one I managed to get the dealer to fix, but the second one cost me around £200 second hand. There are loads of variations depending on the model and some very advanced coding which I got help from a fellow forum member to copy across using software over and above VCDS. If you're adding HIDs, learn from my mistakes and do it properly with a relay. This is the loom I used: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261048165322

Yeah, that's the same as mine. I'll get it booked in and see what they say.

I have added an HID kit to my car. It's a 2014 facelift model, so the same headlights as yours. What you need to do is run the HIDs from a separate power supply and use the original wiring to trigger a relay. Otherwise you will burn out the BCM, even if you re-code with VAG-COM. I had to buy two new BCMs, which is why I know. The first time I thought I got the coding wrong, then it happened again. The xenon ignitors spike the current to ignite the bulbs and that action must burn out the BCM through the bulb checking circuit. The second time I had the HID kit installed for a week before it killed the BCM. You can buy a wiring loom on eBay for under £10 which will include the fuse, relay and wiring with split conduit sleeving. You'll also need a pair of 50W 6ohm resistors which will take the place of the halogen bulbs, in order to prevent the "bulb out" dash notifications. You can tap the headlight wiring to trigger the relay and there's an earthing point you can use behind the driver's side (RHD) headlight in the engine bay. The headlight wire to tap for the relay is from pin 6 of the passenger's side headlight (the battery is on this side, so it makes sense to keep power to one side). The wire is yellow and black with blue ribs / tracer marks. The resistors will need to go across pin 6 and pin 5 (brown wire, earth). Hope that helps?

Well, still no SLR pics, so here are a few off my phone... The cracked screen...

Ah ok, sounds promising. Were you getting any bearing rumble noises when driving? When I'm cruising along at slower speeds, I can hear a mechanical whirring which sounds like knackered bearings to me. Also, the whistle/whine is audible at lower rpm even when driving now. I'd best get it booked in under warranty

Oh right, I shall try that, but I would expect that to be a short-term fix? If the water from the system is able to get into the bearings, the seals must be failing. Unless it's the pump internals whining... how long ago was that? Did the noise come back at all?

Since my last post, I picked up a full black leather interior from a 2010 Elegance model. I was hoping to use the electric seats but the electronics had major water damage and it wouldn't have been cost effective to repair them. So, with an extra pair of hands provided by my other half, we stripped the leather seats and my original seats down to the frames and swapped the foam (cloth interior is different) and the covers over on to the frames of my original seats, making possibly the only set of manually adjustable full black leather seats. I made the mistake of buying the saloon interior, as after inspecting photos and overlaying side profile photos of the saloon with the estate to check rear door shut lines, I assumed the interiors were the same. However, the rear seat base on a saloon is not split-folding and the saloon rear side bolsters are shorter than on the estate. Also, much to my annoyance, I found the rear door panels are very slightly different. I also picked up very dirty estate rear seats which I thought I might be able to use, but the leather isn't quite as good, so I'm sticking with the one piece saloon version as it's not often I fold the seats flat. I managed to use the rear side bolsters that came with them, though. When I fitted the 'new to me' front door cards, I changed the position of my DIY ambient lighting so that it fires down into the door pocket, rather than from the top rear corner as in the photos. Also, the door handles now have illumination which all looks very slick at night. I also bought an auto-dimming rear view mirror from a breaker on eBay and when it arrived, it was like new – completely unmarked. It's the version with the on/off switch built in. I think there's another version that doesn't have this. All I needed to do was run an ignition-switched live and an earth up the A pillar from the fuse panel, across the front of the headlining and down into the mirror. I didn't bother with the other two pins which are for turning off the dimming when in reverse and to ignore interior lights, I believe. I had some 15mm and 17.5mm 5x112 wheel spacers, so I tried the 15mm on the rear, bringing the 8.5x19 ET45 out to effectively ET30 and without adjusting the camber, it was a no go – the tyres would have rubbed the arches a lot. So they came off until I look to see what camber adjustment is available from factory. Also, I had to get AutoGlass out to replace my windscreen as a big stone thrown up by the car in front cracked it on impact on the passenger side. They did a great job. With a new screen in place, it would be a shame to mark it, so I bought some new wiper blades from a seller on eBay. I still haven't taken any photos with my DSLR, so nothing to look at as yet!

If you're feeling adventurous, RS6 brakes will go on

I'd like an estate in silver please

Any news on your squeal?!

I have aftermarket 8.5 x 19 all round, ET45 with 235/35/19 tyres, lowered on coilovers. Reducing the massive arch gap with any wheel will greatly improve the looks!