Hendred

I took it off a golf mark 5 that’s scrap at my work, not recommended as that could of been faulty too but I was confident it was relay due to using wire in fuse box in place of relay.

Just a post with a fixed problem for information. I had a non starting 2007 Skoda Octavia Estate Scout 2.0TDI PD. No engine management light, no coil light, no DPF light illuminating, all other lights illuminating such as abs, airbag etc when they should, engine just cranking over. I plugged it in through OBD using snap on solus pro. No communication with ECM under engine management. I checked other modules such as abs, airbag, they all stated no comms with ecm. There is a relay in fuse box under bonnet with 370 on it, only relay under there. This was clicking as it should. I pulled it out and put a wire across where the switched side of relay would be and problem solved so swapped relay and now fixed. I also checked the energising side of where relay would be (12v). So be warned a relay can still appear ok by clicking but not necessarily be ok. Hope this helps if anyone else has the same problem.

Answering my own question for information, the top part of mount can be pulled down through the subframe exiting the same way as bottom part of mount by either breaking the bushes and sleeve or using a long bolt, washer and big socket or similar (bigger than mounting), do the bolt up to create the pulling force on the washer so no need to remove subframe, thanks John

Got to be worth a shot, free after all.

I would jack it up, support on axle stand on jacking point then put a scaffolding pole or similar under the front wheel/tyre in question and move it up and down to simulate suspension movement on road and I bet you can track down where the noise is coming from.

Good afternoon all, I have a knocking rear engine mount, the rubber bushes have gone, I believe this mount comes in two parts, top and bottom. Has anyone replaced these two bushes before? It looks to me as though the subframe will have to removed for access to the top part?? What wheel alignment issues would this cause, camber, caster, tracking? (picture not mine, just for illustration). I would be grateful for any advice from anyone who has completed this repair before, thanks everyone.

Cool, thanks Anddenton

Hi all, Any ideas what front calipers the 2007 Scout has fitted, I can't help noticing they look identical to the VRS calipers! I am either going to replace my offside front caliper or get a repair kit if I can find one, I am completely lost at the moment even finding what caliper it is? Thanks John

FOR INFORMATION I successfully changed both handbrake cables, I found that if you snip the small mallet head/barrel looking part off the end of the cable inside the vehicle before trying to pull the cable from underneath the car, the cable doesn't get caught then. You have to be careful not to dislodge the tube as stated above by trundlenut but I actually did move it a bit but you can wiggle it back into position if you haven't dislodged it too much. Final tip is then to drill the plastic left in the tube out as this will be stuck in there. New cable then just goes through nicely, I sprayed white grease up the tube first. Thanks John

Ah ok, very kind of you but I am near Ludlow, thanks anyway and for your help, cheers John

Oh ok great, thanks, does the fact that the cable gets stuck in the tube cause the cable to stick/seize up or is it inside another casing inside the tube? Just wondering whether I can lubricate the cable and use it again after cleaning tube out or best to buy a new cable, Thanks John

Hi all, Has anyone changed the handbrake cable on a Scout Mk2 before (2007) I have got access to the handbrake end and can undo that and along with disconnecting from the caliper and all the fittings, I am just wanting to know how it actually is removed, does it slide out from inside the tube I can see or does the tube remove too? Thanks John

Ok cheers Scott, I am struggling to find a leak at all now, I cleaned the oil off and drove it for 2 days and not a drop of oil yet, I have made sure there is oil in there. Thanks for the word of warning though. John

Plan C haha, the driveshaft is situated alot higher than the propshaft so using gravity law I am going for a driveshaft seal failure rather than propshaft, the oil must be running down and around, and the good news is that that can be done with the transfer box in situ hopefully, fingers crossed.

Had a quick look this morning, I reckon it may well come out if it is pulled towards the o/s hub, I will have a go later if I get time.