SP36

So it went in for Service with a reputable VAG specialist here in Birmingham where a diagnostic was carried out. They advised the car is occasionally lazy on start up but couldn't find a specific issue. They said the problem may not specifically be caused by the sensors detailed in the above screen shot & their fault codes. I was basically told not to worry unless it gets worse. However, I'm now pretty sure it is temperature related. I noticed the last few times it has occurred that the temperature was pretty low. Today in Birmingham it has snowed so when I returned to the car I expected it to occur. I made sure I let the instrument panel lights go out before starting the car & low and behold, it happened. The car started in reduced power mode which cleared after a short drive & restart. Could it be a glow plug dying? Any ideas/ advice?

I prefer cillit bang for such tasks.

Geez! I hope not!

No tuning box. No remap either as far as I am aware - I'm the second owner. It's been fine again the last few days. It seems to be when the temperature drops. I have it booked in for service on Monday. I'll mention it so hopefully they can shed some light.

Hi all, I have a 2013 MkIII Octavia VRS 2.0 TDI. Of recent months my car has had reduced power as if in limp home mode on start up. I initially thought this was me being premature turning the key and the glow plugs not being sufficiently warm. This is accompanied with a flashing glow plug / coil symbol and occasionally the engine management light. Usually to solve this all is needed is a short 60 second drive in the reduced power, ingition off, key out, key in and start her up again. The fault usually clears, as does the symbols and power is back. This seems to be happening more regularly so I brought a OBD code reader. I have attached a screen shot of the fault codes displayed. P0236 relating to the turbo boost pressure sensor P002e(7d) relating to the exhaust camshaft profile Over the last week I have replaced the Turbo boots pressure sensor. Also the oil ran low (naughty I know, hadn't checked it in months) so topped it up with the correct specification oil. My next port of call is the exhaust camshaft profile. Has anybody experience with a similar issue & how it was solved? Is there a camshaft sensor I can replace & if so where is it located? Is this an easy DIY job? Any other solutions or route causes of this issue? My apologies if this is detailed elsewhere on the forum. I did use the search feature but couldn't find anything. Thanks in advance.

Okay thank you for the information. I've managed to find a few posts since which suggest a common issue as you say. Although I can't find a TSB number. I also managed to find its location & have attached images should anyone come across this threat in the future. I'm in a dilemma as to whether to replace the part myself or let the garage do it. I have some warranty provided by Honda (who I brought the car off) which is very complicated when making a claim & I'm not sure it would be covered. I don't want to pay extortionate amounts for such a quick fix if all it is is a replacement part & I know Johnson's Skoda in Birmingham charge at least £100 for diagnositic. I've had the part off and takes 2 minutes to do. So my question is, does anyone know if it needs calibration or setting up if I was to replace it myself? I've also attached an image of my actual part which shows the part number (again if somebody finds this thread in the future). Its the BPK number.

Hi Guys, My car is in Limp Home mode with a flashing glow plug light. I have a P0236 fault code -Turbocharger boost pressure sensor. My local dealers can't get my car in to get the problem fixed any time soon leaving me without my car or at least one with no power. Does anyone know if this is an easy DIY fix? The part code required and where I can find the part on the car? I read this is a common issue but can't find the answers to my questions. If an quick, easy cheap fix I may as well do it rather than be without my car for 2 weeks. Thanks in advance

Hi guys, As the title suggests. I picked up a 63plate (2014) Mk3 Octavia VRS TDI DSG yesterday. It has a radar in the lower front grill & a warning pops up on the maxi dot to say when I'm too close to cars. On the drive home the car also applied its own brakes when it thought it was going to collide with an on coming car with a big warning on the maxidot. I looked in the manual for instructions on how to use adaptive cruise control & the control stalk depicted in there is not mine. I have the ordinary cruise control stalk. The car has parking assist so could the radar be for this instead? Can anybody shed light on this please? Thanks! Scott

Not a bad idea. Woke up this morning wondering if it may be due to the incline of my drive. My drive goes down hill from back to the front of the car. Maybe water has drained in some how after standing in all the rain? I'll see how it goes with the back pointing down hill. Doesn't seem like an issue many have had.

I'm the second owner so can't vouch for the rear screen. Nothing seems out of place from what I can see and everything seems aligned.

Hi All, My MK3 Octavia VRS estate has been standing for 10 days in the British rain while I was in Spain. Driving this morning I could hear water sloshing about in the boot. When I stopped I open the boot for what seemed like about 2ltrs of water to run down the sides from behind the tailgate trim and on to the boot floor. I've had a few drips previously but never this much. Can't see anywhere obvious this may be getting in and rear washer seems to be working fine. Any ideas?

I'm sure this is covered somewhere but I've been unable to find it. I want VCDS purely to have a play with some adaptions to my Mk3 Octavia VRS. However finding out what I need to do this and how much it will cost seems like a minefield of overly complicated abbreviations and computer jargon. Any how, can somebody please tell me which version of VCDS I need and recommend a OBD to USB cable? Also how much this will cost? Thanks!

Cheers for that all! Had them on a previous car and missed them so glad they are standard.

Hi guys, Can somebody please confirm that bi-xenon headlights were fitted as standard on the VRS from first production. I am looking to buy used and I have had mixed info with one dealer saying they weren't standard in earlier MKIIIs. Is this the case? Cheers, Scott

Looking at getting my windows tinted in the coming days. I have a white FL Octy VRS and would like something to contrast the colour - Not keen on black alloys. I don't know what grade tint to go with. I want as dark as possible but still want to see out the back at night. Can anybody recommend a grade to go with from experience?

Here are the two alignment print outs for Kwikfit. The black and white is the first Kwikfit I went to, the colour is the second. I've noticed there is some differences between the two considering I went from one to the other in 20 minutes. I though all in the green. Does anyone know if front camber can be adjusted and how?

Thanks, Rear camber and toe was aligned. Was going to give swapping tyres left to right a go. My car is 2010 so would that be in the age bracket to become camber sensitive? My TDI was also 2010 and didn't drift. I have tried driving on opposite road camber and that is the time the car drivers straight with the steering wheel straight so the right side camber counters the pull to the left. I'm not heavy but logical. Now you mention it, it does seem worse on motorways / A roads. The occassions I have driven on these road the rear of the car has had more persons and luggage in the boot. But figured this to be the higher speeds. Covering more ground so drifting quicker.

Hi all, Can somebody help and suggest what could be causing my car to drift? Here is a little background and what I have tried so far. I brought my current Octy II FL TSI used in a private sale after previously owning a FL TDI. During the test drive I noticed the steering wheel was out to the right slightly when going straight on a flat road. It had a virtually bald tyre on the front right so I suspected that the cause. The owner said the reason for the wear is he only changed the near side when that failed the MOT due to having a nail in it. Due to financial reasons and to get it past the MOT he only changed the near side. All else was good so I brought the car. On the drive home I noticed that when the wheel was straight it would drift to the left but thought this consistent with the tyre wear. Straight away I got two new Avon ZV7 put on the front and took it for a wheel alignment. I asked how much the alignment was out and they said “not much.” However, the steering was still out and the car still drifting to the left with the wheel straight. So I returned it and they checked it and all the suspension parts and said it was fine. But still steering wheel out and drifting. So I took the car to have a hunter wheel alignment front and rear this time at a local Kwikfit (closest Hunter to me). All was done and set to manufacturer specs. All but the off side camber which was still within tolerances in the green. The technician said the subframe would need removing and was so insignificant it wouldn't be worth the hassle as it doesn't affect steering. I was due to go on a journey up north so didn’t have the time either so didn't have it done. Anyway, car still drifting left with steering wheel straight. After returning home I returned the car to Kwikfit and they even let me set up the steering wheel myself and so could see it was central. The technician checked it all again and checked all the steering and suspension components. He was baffled by it and sent me to another branch in case their machine was calibrated incorrectly. They checked the work and all the components as well. However car is still drifting left. My pervious TDI VRS had new shock absorbers and wondered if it was all in my head because of this and the TSI was more sensitive to the road. So I decided to get a second opinion, my Dad drove the car and said it was fine. A mechanic who is also an amatuer Motorsport driver and team owner drove the car and said it is fine (although on local uneven roads) but my father in law agrees with me.I’ve experimented with tyre pressures, seating position and accounted for road camber. I was just starting to tell myself it was all in my head but spent the majority of a journey to Drayton Manor yesterday with my steering pointed slightly right on straight flat roads. I am going to take the car back to Kwikfit and asked them to do the front camber no matter how tricky as this is the only thing out. However I am sure I read on here that front camber on the FL can't be adjusted, is this right? Would the slight camber misalignment be causing a drift to the opposite side? If not, is there anything else I can check or try bearing in mind a few people have said the suspension and steering components are fine. Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sl2DG0ciD5w Sounds very similar to this, except mine hasn't done it when generally pulling away from junctions etc up until now though early days. Like the post above describes it happened when creeping up and curb and when releasing the clutch with the hand brake on. The comments in the post tend to suggest it is a common VAG issue. I also remember a Ford at work doing similar and was told it was the Thrust Bearing.

Hi All, After a long debate I decided to put my TDI CR VRS up for sale as my daily mileage has reduced from 60 miles to just 4. I have purchased a TSI VRS and drove it home today 60 miles from the sellers address to home with no issues - It was great. However I slowly crept it up a kerb and at the top of the clutch came a loud noise from the front of the car. To simulate these conditions I put the handbrake on and did the same. The clutch bit low on the peddle but at the top the loud noise came again. The father-in-law who was with my at the time said it was the Dual Mass Fly Wheel. I have returned home and have listened to several videos of DMF problems on youtube and non seem to match the noise I heard. The DMF noises I heard in these videos seem to be tapping noises. The problem is I cannot describe what the noise sounded like, it was just loud almost metallic slightly vibrating shreaking which lasting until the front wheels were over the obstacle or the clutch was dipped again with the hand brake on. If I can get some kind of recording tomorrow I will. I know that's not much information to go on, but any ideas? Has anyone experienced similar? I'm also interested to know what people with DMF issues have experienced particularly on the TSI / TFSI VRS.

Really like them, had 8 on my last three cars. Can't fault them really. Though can't comment on economy or noise as I notice no real difference. All I can say is I have gone fast around inner city and A road roundabouts and the country lanes of Cornwall in the wet of the UK winter many times and have loads of confidence in them. As for wear, well my current set on the front were replaced 12k ago and have worn to 5mm. I drive a Octy II TDI CR VRS.

So I've just done 600+ miles this past week on a trip to Cornwall & Shropshire from Birmingham. On arrival back at my house I noticed the fan remained on the car. It wasn't particularly warm and it was very wet. I understand this could be a sign of an interrupted regen? The very next journey was my bog standard trip to the train station. Again not very warm and wet again. Fan remained on, another interrupted re-gen? The father-in-law suggested I drive once an week the long way home between motorway junctions, but based on the above I don't see how this is going do any good. I've looked at the manual and even doing this I might not hit the required parameters to spark the regen. Plus its a waste of fuel and adding unnecessary miles. I'm gonna get a petrol.

I take it you were driving a Mk2 Octy VRS?

I brought my diesel before the add had a picture. Went up on the Friday afternoon, was mine Saturday morning. Wow Sniper29a. You put up a convincing argument... Scared me now. What was you driving at the time?

They were about when I first posted.