Ambient7

Relay 377 change , he says it's a Mk 2 it isn't y change 377 ,

Hi I need the rear seat NS lever , are you still breaking it ?

Sorry to hear of your loss Kentphil . Re your back have you heard of Rolfers ? these people know more about backs than anyone else . A friend was told she needed an Op , just one visit to a Rolfer and she was sorted ! The Octy you sold me is still going well , 3 MOTs have cost peanuts, Sunroof still taped up though

It was several months ago when I put the Radweld in the radiator. -------------------------------------------- Use K-seal if you have to use one of these sealing additives , I have known people have excellent results with it , like head gasket issues , leaking water pumps etc.

Found the brake lights on too. Tomorrow I will try sawing down the pressure switch to make it shorter , maybe this will work ? will post and let you know.

I was surprised I got this job done in 1.5 hours , the pic shows the cut away plastic with the motor removed , it really does take 2 minutes if you have a multi purpose saw ( Fein saw ) but you could do it with a chisle .The door card really does pull off quite easily once the 3 screws are undone, just give it a hard yank . Re the door handle . Remember to take off the steel wire door pull that goes to the handle as there isn't one on the new lock you have to change it over . To release that you have to keep turning the lock screw on the end of the door until the small cover wiggles out, you can then see the end of the wire located in the handle, you just lever that out carefully and extract the old lock. The 2 bolts holding the lock are Spline grooved I had to borrow one of these wrench tips. To get the new lock in you have to take off the door plunger tip/ knob, to do this you move the mech towards the back of the door and it will then pull out , once that is done you can take out the old lock and remove the wire from it's locating hole.

Took me 3 hours you need the wiring diagram , the Haynes one is complex I found . Someone up above said they did this in 30 mins , I do not believe them .

Thanks to Leeboy

These door mechs are £20 on ebay , I rather just put a new one on.

I couldn't see how to get that large black plug off so I sprayed it , also found a bare brown wire between the door and car body . Thanks for contributing to this thread it's helped me out.

Hi all, is the blue line the send pipe ? Thanks

Can't thank you enough I was beginning to hate the thing , all done now. I bought my LK Octy Mk 1 and it had a non functioning car door key and the fob only works right next to the door so I was expecting a failure with the remote , so know I have switched door barrels to a good key . I now want to change the ignition barrel so I only have one key but it will not come out . I have pushed a paper clip in there and wriggled it , not joy as yet . Any advice much appreciated. You do not have to take the entire barrel off do you , I just want the key mech bit to swap. Thanks again

Is that the gold one with the bigger head ? it's to the right of the other one When I took one off before I didn't have to release that one

Hi All can someone tell me what is holding my key barrel on ? I have undone the barrel retaining screw on the edge of the door but the barrel remains unmovable.

When I had this problem a new hand brake cable was required it had rusted up.

Thanks will do , I wanted the diagram to see how the pressure release valve worked . I also wanted to see if there were O rings in there as I was going to pour boiling water through it before opening it up. It is 12 bar because it needs to force the oil up to the head & cam.

Thanks for replies I have had the sump off 5 times to clean the pick up pipe gauze , I run it on veg oil and should had added more diesel when my pre-heater stopped working , the oil turned to jelly. My Mechanic said it might be the pressure release valve stuck open with crud so I wanted to open it up and clean it and was wondering how complex it is inside ?

Hi can anyone point me to a expanded oil pump diagram please . I am taking it off to clean it up as I have low oil pressure .

I didn't mean the fuse box ( that is inside ) , I want to connect the wire from the pump to a live wire under the bonnet that comes on with the ignition .

Can anyone tell me how to wire in to the ignition circuit from the fuses box on my Octavia MK 1 , I realise that the lift pump should have a oil pressure switch added but I am not bothering as I run on veg oil so not a danger. The pump has to be near the fuel tank so I can earth it down there but need one long wire to the fuse box . The pump is rated 1.3 amps. Thanks for looking .

The off take pipe on the right in you pic is the breather pipe , you can depress a collar and pull off that adaptor , on the other end of that piece is a pipe ( missing in your pic ) that has no clip , I have put on a clip and will see if this stops the leak on to my exhaust , thanks .

Thanks but that is'nt it , my pic is of the breather pipe from the head that goes to the turbo intake. Going by that pic in you ebay link that car has had the same problem , I am going to try a jubilee clip on that adaptor you can see that is covered in oil , thanks.

Just thought I could try a jubilee clip on the pipe that pulls off the adaptor piece.

I have warmed the car up and got the pipe off , the 0 ring inside is in good order , at least it isn't hard . the car has done 170 K