deanest

I had a similar problem with mine a while back. It could be worth just listening for an air leak. I wish I had started with that instead if the air filter/spark plugs/rocker cover gasket my leak was around the suction jet pump. My understanding (NOT A MECHANIC) was that it was involved with the Vacuum from the turbo? Anyway theory right or not it worked for me. Good Luck.

That's it. I really appreciate it. I've been searching for a while. To finish it up I came across this guide to replace it http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5380569-Suction-pump-DIY-**w-pix** And I can only see one place on-line to buy it £79.99 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-8T-MK1-1U-SUCTION-JET-PUMP-06A133751AE-/321142861266?hash=item4ac59b2dd2 I'm in Ireland so I'm going to get screwed with the exchange rate and courier delivery. I might see if my autofactors can order it in for me instead.

Thank you for the reply again. looking at that I'm nearly sure I need the parts encompassed within 25. and I think the leak is in the one marked 25 too. Do you have part numbers for them? I really appreciate it. I'm hoping this leak is the answer to all my problems; lumpy idle, under performing brakes, boost issues.

Hi, Thanks for the reply. I've attached a few more pictures to give a better idea of what I'm looking at. My mechanic skills are limited enough.

Hi, I'm looking for part numbers for the VAC pipe system. I have a leak, circled in the picture below (The picture is taken from this thread "http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/221667-how-to-evap-and-vac-breather-lines-simplification/" by Bowders1). I want to replace this piece and probably the other pipes because I read they are all likely to crack when I try to remove it. If anyone can help I'd really appreciate it, I've been looking on the internet for a while now with no luck. Cheers

I've kept going at the problem myself and found this thread by Bowders1 on fitting an oil catch can (http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/141132-occ-installation/) and it shows how to remove the panel to get access to the Vac pipes. On another of Bowders1 thread there's a picture of the vac pipes removed (http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/221667-how-to-evap-and-vac-breather-lines-simplification/). So that answers my origional question (Is there any easier way to get access?). I am now wondering if replacing a piece of the Vac pipe system is worth it, how much would it cost? is there a part number for the offending part I attached a picture taken from the above thread with the piece the hole is in highlighted. It's the piece that splits three ways. Would I be better off doing the OCC installation and the evap and vac breather lines simplification? Overall I want a car that is turnkey without the niggly problems of modified cars. I have enough power @220bhp but If it means it'll run more efficiently I'd consider doing the changes. If anyone has any advice I'd really appreciate it.

Hi, I've been struggling with a bad idle problem for a while now, sounds like a misfire and then the revs shoot up, it's embarrassing in traffic if nothing else. I'm not a mechanic but I thought if I could run through a few easy bits first it might save me a bit. First thing I looked at was the air filter, it was in a bad way. So having changed that I thought problem solved. It wasn't. Next I looked at the spark plugs, and found one filled with oil when I took out the coil packs. So I bought a rocker cover gasket and fitted it (definitely pushing my mechanic skills), cleaned the coil packs and replaced the plugs anyway since I already had them. Again disappointingly this didn't fix my Issue. the last fix I tried was putting two full tanks of petrol through with engine cleaner. Hoping maybe there was a build up somewhere. No joy. Now I'm getting a lot of eye rolling when I head to the garage. But I think I have the problem. I have a leak. I have two schematics (Both taken from a Briskoda thread at some point), I'm either looking at a "Suction Spray pump" according to the one with colour. or else it's a "Vacuum Booster" according to the black and white one. Maybe they mean the same thing? I'm basing this on the fact that it branches off the pipe going directly into the manifold. You might be able to see from the picture that it threads down behind the manifold. I can get the flat of a screwdriver against the bottom and right enough I can hear the air noise change. So I suppose my question is, how hard is it to remove the inlet manifold? There are a lot of things connected to it. Usually I leave things like that to a mechanic. Or alternatively is there a better way to get access?

Having spoken to the guy who had the car before me it turns out the post Cat sensor is mapped out. The Cat converter was fitted to pass emissions just before I bought the car. Thanks for the answer, otherwise I never would have thought of asking about the mapping.

Hi, I have a Straight through Pipe for my Octy 2002 VRS. I haven't fitted it yet. I was wondering, will I get a warning from the lambda sensors? (Probably). If I do is there any way of switching it off/By-passing it? Having spoken to one Electro-mechanic he says that a signal emulator is the only job, but this will cost money (>€100?). Just wondering what other people have done? Thanks in advance.

Would anyone have a wiring diagram for the passenger door? or possibly some description of the pins in the regulator? Still don't want to give up on this

So I went over it with a multimeter. The diagram show where there was a pin (white) where there wasn't (Black) and anywhere there was power I wrote it in there. I don't know what each pin relates to or if they should have power . Is there a thread here for that already? IT seems like a broken wire/s. The only unaccounted for thing would be the fact that the passenger window works briefly after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Any possible explanations for this? After this I think I'm going to find a good Auto electrician and hopefully get it sorted out. Thanks for all the help

Thanks for the reply YellowCar, I went to check the lights left on buzzer, it's broken, which is really useful to know because I use it . . . often. One last possible problem that has just occurred to me is that I didn't reconnect the retrofitted puddle LEDs. I have no idea who put them on or how, so possibly they're spliced into something important. I'll check that this evening. Failing that I'll borrow a multimeter from work tomorrow and give everything I can reach a Good check (I'm looking for 12.4V?). The only other thing I can add is that passenger door mechanism was working before the Reg "fix". This makes me think it isn't dry catches. I'll let you know how I get on

Hi all and thanks in advance for any advice you might be able to give me. I recently replaced the passenger side regulator of my octavia VRS 2002. It was completely a mechanical failure, the wire had corroded, snapped and wrapped around the motor and it made some nasty noises when activated. So I assumed an easy fix. Second hand regulator (€50) fitted using a few of the helpful threads on here. The window initially worked fine, so I bolted everything back up only to discover it had stopped working. I assumed a frayed wire was shorting somewhere or a loose connection .I took it all apart again, but no easy visible problems. so I put it back together for another day. Going to work the next morning I noticed the central locking from the fob wasn't working and all of the other electric windows had stopped working (from the drivers door and their individual switches). Since, I've noticed the interior lights don't work (either auto on the door, or manually). Interestingly if I disconnect the battery to reset, the passenger window will work from the passenger door (but not from the drivers door) for a little while before giving up again. This temporary fix doesn't work for anything else. Locking and unlocking from the Drivers door works for all the doors except the passenger door. Having read a few threads here I've checked the Reg pins for corrosion and the wires as they enter the door, they all look good. I also tried reconnecting the old Reg (without fitting it) to see if the secondhand one was the problem. I'm beginning to think I might have to give in and bring it to a mechanic. If anybody can help I'd really appreciate it.

Hi all, I'm Deane, recently bought a 2002 Octavia VRS with the the idea of making a few simple repairs and motoring happily. So far none of the repairs has been simple, but I'm making my way slowly through them anyway and motoring happily anyway.