colin42

I've had the driver door trim off today but there are no signs of water damage. It's only the passenger door electrics that aren't working, however an interesting observation if i disconnect the the passenger door electric and reconnect the that passenger window will work for 5 mins or so from the passenger button only. I've checked the continuity of the wiring harness coming from the door and it all checks out. The fact that the passenger window works for a short period when the power is reconnected makes me think the passenger door module is the issue, otherwise i think it must be the CAN link

My estate had water in the boot - turned out to be a split in the rear washer hose, so each time i cleaned the rear window half the water ended up in the left hand wing (there is a storage cover there in the estate Worth a look (and easy to check!)

where is the central convenience unit in the ocativa - I'm have issues with the electrics in my passenger door - I've checked all the connections and they don't appear to have water damage - may post suggest looking and the control unit but i can't find it!

the part answer to my own post is http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/112185-door-card-removal-from-deadlocked-octavia/

I have the same problem with my 2000 octavia however I can't get the above links to work.... could someone repost? Thanks

It didn't work!:thumbdwn: This morning the gauges didn't work until i removed fuse 15!

Following from Soviet's Advice I took my instrument display apart again this evening to photo the Siemens relay so i could obtain a replacement. Upon re assembling I tapped the component a couple of times, put it back together and to my amazement it gauges are all working correctly even with fuse 15 in place! We'll see over the next few days if it continues to work!

Sounds like the common fault with the display console - Do the other dial read i.e. coolant temperature & speedo? Does the clock / trip reset after each key off? Before i jump to conclusions check the keep alive fuse for the dispaly console - fuse 15 i beleive and replace if blown Now assuming I haven't jumped to conculsions you have several options 1. Live with it! - You can display speed on the climate control if fitted 2. Try removing fuse 15 - keep alive power for the display console - Generally the gauges will work but the clock / trip will reset + the service indiator will no longer work! http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/instrument-display-intermittent-fault-octavia/61077/ 3. Replace the console at a dealer -

Strangely - the problem has resolved itself! I'm sure it will return at some point

My 2000 SLX TDI has this sticker

Drive my car this evening the doors just locked themselves. :confused: Now whenever i try to unlock the doors they re lock. I assume there must be some switch in the door to causes it to lock. Any ideas?

Update: I've discovered an interesting observation with this fault. If i remove the fuse for the display unit keep alive power the the dials work 95% of the time. If I leave the fuse in it only works 5% of the time. The down side is that I either need to remember to reinsert the fuse before turning the engine off or accept that the trip computer resets each this i key off! anyhow it got through the MOT with any mention of the speedo fault. I've had the unit apart but can't see which component is at fault. I guess i could... a) fit a relay to turn on the keep alive power when the ignition is turned off fit a manual switch to do the same c) Replace the unit I guess I should bite the bullet and choose option C!

Thanks for the help. I think I’ll put in for the MOT and if it fails on the display, wait until it works again and take it back! The instrument display is easy to remove. I've had it apart however I can't find any fault with it - probably a fault component on the PCB. If anyone does have a circuit diagram for the instrument panel I would be grateful and I might be able to work out what's gone wrong!

Does anyone know which pins of the instrument unit goes to the ignition switch?

The 18deg is the target temperature for the cabin, not the vent air out temp. If the aircon is in good working order it should get down to ~5deg for a 25+ deg ambient temp when on max cooling. Any lower than this and you'll get frezzing in the unit which basically isn't good!

You could always buy a cable from eBay for >

I've been thinking of changing from the standard rigid key (hella 730 955-00 433MHz 5FA 007 680) to a flip key. I believe the 2000 Octavia’s have the immobiliser II. does anyone know which 2 button flip key part numbers would work? I did come across the (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1216091) but I've been unable to find the part number it refers to Cheers

Don't try the self regas kits - they don't work long term. See my comments on http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/air-con-recharge/60989/

your correct about the GLX & SLX. The SDi is definately 68 bhp - this was renamed to the classic but not sure of it's badge name before that

Do any of the Octavias have active Knock? If not (and the car hasn't been remapped) then there would be no advantage in going for a higher ron fuel. The only benifit might be in the additive used in the higher Ron fuel.

I believe the variable veins were only on the PD engines. Easy to check coz if it's VG then it shouldn't have a wastegate (although I'm not fully aware of the TDi VG turbo!) Remove the compressor inlet and try spinning the wheel (Best to try this with the engine off!). It should spin freely if not then there either the wheels are rubbing, or the bearings need replacing or both. One of the biggest causes of turbo issues is not idling the engine for a minute when stopping i.e. turbo keeps spinning but no oil pressure is provided.

My Octavia had a broken electric rear nearside window – it was caused by the cable mechanism tying itself in knots. Brought the replacement runner from the dealer (without the electrics) and fitted it within an hour. The replacement part was an improved design. The guy I brought it from said that 2 other Octavia’s his company had developed a similar problem but they were both still under warrantee

I've had my Octavia air con recharged several times over the 2 years I’ve had it. Here's the history (Stick with me- what I'm saying will make sense in the end) The 1st time was the summer after I brought it – took it to a Car stereo place who plug in onto a machine and went back to work for 45 minutes. This cost somewhere in the region of £80! Earlier this year discovered my air con didn’t work again. Decided to try one of these self gas kits (£40 from Halfords) – Bad idea!!!! It worked for about 1 week if that. Next took it to an Air Con Specialist in Leicester (Cool Runnings – 0116 2248233). After a 30 minute lesson on Air Con’s discovered that there are many different types of oil that different cars use (and they don’t agree with each other) As a result these air con machines can over time block the compressor! This guy did the whole process manually, from extracting the old gas (if there was any in the system) to running a decontaminant through the system and the adding the gas, correct oil and ultra violet dye. This cost £57 and came with a 6 month warrantee i.e. would regas for free in that time (Sounds cheep compared with the Halfords kit). This worked for about 3 weeks. I took it back to them to discover a leaking condenser. Got a couple of quotes from a dealer, and specialist – both over £600. This guy charged me £325 – now works a treat! From this I’ve learnt… Never ever use a self gas system Not to use one of these machines – You’re just asking for trouble down the line So either find someone like this or take it to a specialist / dealler who should use the right oils etc. I know we’re not meant to advertise services on this forum but I feel this guy is such a find that other car owners (Skoda or not) would benefit from it

2000 Skoda Octavia SLX TDi My car has an intermittent issue with the instrument display.:confused: Some of the time the Speedo, Taco, Fuel & Temperature gauge plus the top row of warning lights (Coolant Temp, Low fuel, Immobiliser etc) stop working. Also when this happens I