dangreenwood79

Well I got the handed ones and it didn't work, I have to hold my hands up and admit my recollection of the pick up position on the strut not being quite right and the angle difference on each side is closer to equal than I thought. Anyway I got a pair of Meyle HD's off the I tenet for less than £30 and just from look, feel and install they feel much more beefy. Fingers crossed they hold out longer.

160k, I envy you. See above for worn patch reason. It's all stock on, I'm 99% sure, the original shocks. Its defo roll bar related as if I drop the link off the noise completely dissapears and when renewed it goes away at least for a while. I think I'll offer up the mk1 links from my local factor's as if the same length I'm happy a right handed version mirroring the left side could only be an improvement. If not then I'll go the Meyle HD route.

Hi, thanks for the reply, what you can see is where the material has 'worn' away where I've repeatedly had to use an angle grinder to get the old nut off. A further frustration of the skoda design is that you can't get a nut splitter in there when the nut inevitably corrodes enough resulting in the Allen head in the end of the drop link isn't strong enough and rounds off if you try to use it.

So in the last 15 months, I've now been through 3 sets of front ARB drop links. We do have some speed bumps near us but not that many and this is getting rediculous. I changed 15 months ago, 3 months ago and 2 weeks ago and it's knocking again already. The most recent 2 times it has definitely been the drivers side that has gone and something that's never sat right with me is the fact the drop links and not sided left and right so which means on the drivers side the pick up on the shock connects on the rearmost side and therefore further back than on the passenger side (?). This means the angle of the link relative to the shock must be greater on this side and the top ball joint is located with much more angle compared to the other side. You can hopefully see this in the picture below. The ball joint is almost fully pivoted within its range with both sides of the car level on axle stands. I know the octavia up to 2004 has sided drop links so each side located on the same side of the shock mount (I assume). Does anyone know if these are the same length and this would fit? I also read on a thread on here that use the correct non sided ones for the 1Z, Lemforder or Meyle HD are recommended. I can't find any Lemforder fronts (ECP only sell rears), but the Meyle HD are available online and claim a 4 year warrenty. So unless anyone has any further info I'll try these out next.

I got a deal on a Westfalia solid swan neck for £100 from PF Jones with a free 7 pin kit and fitted using a universal smart bypass relay they sold separately. A bit of a faff to fit, the bar was easy, the electrics took longer but all works perfectly and all in £120. It's a good quality kit and I managed to get the electrics socket tucked up behind the bumper so it looks tidy. I've only towed a trackday car on a twin axle trailer but my 2010 VRS estate was brilliant. 60mph, turn the cruise on and it pulls effortlessly. It's odd that the VRS seems to have a lower plated towing capacity that some of the less powerful models. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-octavia-ii-estate-2005-2013-westfalia-swan-neck-towbar.html

Still searching and researching online, I've read that the relay should be permanent live and also that it should be switched. If permanent live then as this is only running trailer lights would the 12V (10A?) socket feed in the boot be good enough? I never use it so would happily give this up (or at least not use when trailer is on) as would make life much easier. Lastly any idea if the right hand indicator has to be picked up on the off side or is there a wire on the near side?

Thanks again. Left hand side i.e. does it go over / around the rear wheel arch behind the trim? Might have to buy a Haynes manual for the wiring I think.

Thanks for the reply, it was actually that exact website that made me believe there wasn't going to be any issue, but then after ordering I did found some posts to the contrary. Anyway, I rang PF Jones who assured me they sold loads of these and had never heard of this being an issue so am going to go for it. Anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for the car to save me some time? All references I've found the attachments have timed out as they are quite old. Is there not a switched live to the boot already? :(

So I think I've just messed up......... Got a load of stuff to take to the tip (and will again in the future) and can borrow a mates trailer, so decided to order a towbar when I found you could get a Swan neck Westfalia for less than £100 delivered from PF Jones. I had actually looked at previous threads about wiring and concluded on a mk2 I could use a 7way bypass relay and tap into rear wiring loom (as I've done on other cars previously) but now after I've ordered the bar I found another thread saying 2010 onwards that won't work. I'd appreciate any definitive comments, the whole point of this is that's its cheap to do, so if it's going to need a dedicated loom I'd best cancel my order first thing tomorrow..... Any help very much appreciated!

Well I never, this must a running change or something as I even saw another 2010 car yesterday that didn't have the lip. I'll try and get it fitted. Thanks again

Same except part number ends in an F, does that make a difference?

Thanks for those gents, you've confirmed what I thought that mine seem to be wrong. On the inside of the curve on the door side, mine has the extra section, not a continuous curve. If I lined up the rest, this would overlap into the door jam and certainly not stick down. :(

So after a few scabs started on the sill where Skoda chose not to spray the stonechip high enough I had them done with stone ship up to the door bottom and then top coated and lacquered. The bodyshop told me they would remove and fade it under where the OEM plastic film just in front of the rear arches is (it's a 2010 VRS estate) so to order some new ones. I've got the car back and the new films from Skoda but the line isn't quite what I expected. I've attached a picture (note the outer edge is where 2 are cut into 1 on a sheet, I realise it's not the edge of the real film) but there is a bit that sticks out. Could anyone post a picture of the film on their car please so I can see if these are right or how to line up please? Many many thanks!

Thanks again. Stripped it all off today, need the bumper, running light and mount, could be worse. Emailed about 10 breaker sites hopefully something will turn up, assume it will have to be painted but that's OK. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for advice, any ideas on where to source a replacement genuine VRS bumper?