LightRain

Last minute stage cancellation isn't unknown, but it is fairly rare and Toyota are not the only people who suffered because of the cancellation. Mäkinen can bleat all he likes, this is how it is these days. The suggestion of cancelling the morning loop would be unfair to the people who spend their hard earned on spectating the sport. However, the organisers so need to figure out how to improve their crowd control strategy.

Firstly you should always stick to oil that is VAG certified for your engine and service regime. That is the minimum you should demand from your oil. Other than that, finding the certified oil with the highest viscosity index (stability of viscosity at differing temperatures) and with minimal additives (additives tend to attract moisture) may help a little. Oil companies should have data sheets available containing this information.

There is an emergency release in the boot, right side I think. Is the fuel flap button illuminated properly? What about rear reading lights? There is an earth connection shared by the filler flap release, button illumination and those rear lights. Likely not related, but a quick check worth doing. Also, how about cabin fuse 38?

Getting the actual indicators to work that way could be quite trivial. The other stuff, maybe not so.

Is it still the same? Nothing door related (except the central locking) is working on the passenger side? Does your car have the indicator on the mirror, if so, does that work? More experienced people may know better, but isn't all that handled by the same unit and the same earth wire passing from door to body? This slightly implies to me that the control unit is more likely to be at fault, be it due to connector corrosion or internal failures. The usual failures for earth wires are corrosion or breakage. Over time, the failing wire can lose its cross sectional area, leading to higher power devices failing first. Wouldn't central locking be higher power than mirror motors, door lights and indicators?

I don't have access to my documents at the moment. I think that there should be battery voltage at pins 16 and 14 when the left and right (respectively) indicator are desired, and both when hazard is on. From what you have said, it sounds like either your desire for right indicator is not getting to the unit, or the unit isn't sending the signal to the lights. If hazards work in all conditions when they are expected to, then I would heavily advise against concluding the control module is broken. For some additional homework, can you measure terminals 10 and 12 with the XS6 plug connected? These are the control lines for the indicators through the stalk. With no indicator desired, I think they should always be at battery voltage whenever the indicator would be available. When indication is selected pin 10 (left) and 12 (right) should go to 0 volts. Take care.

Sorry for butting in, but just a FYI. If you do go for torque wrench extensions, make sure you use the right calculations to account for them. Wikipedia has the correct ones (at the moment at least ), many sources don't. You probably know what to do, but I'd hate someone to mess up due to poor information.

@KenONeill That's belt and braces, I like it

You should check which parts are actually broken, then you should be able to find the relevant parts in the parts manuals that have been posted. It does sound like the nozzle, but what about piping, is that intact and connected right, and the housing? Alternatively, you could remove the broken part(s) and the part number might be written right on them.

Are they of a good brand and up to standard? To be fair I have never had a problem caused by using the cheaper bits. However, if your bit set is just a bit out and the head is on the extreme of end of tolerance, then this could cause your trouble. Getting a hammer in there to knock the bit on may work, if it fails, you always have the extractor route.

Are you using good bits? If it's tight sometimes cheaper or non-standard bits may not fit right. If it persists, get an extractor and buy new bolts.

There's a thread for finding VCDS users, you may have luck if you check there. It is in the same subforum as this thread.

Probably find it here, or at least on this site somewhere: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-252/9/955-955030/

So you're losing a bottle of coolant a day and white smoke and liquid are coming out of the exhaust? What do the smoke and liquid smell like? Barring any evidence to the contrary, I think the problem is pretty clear and you ought not to be driving the car except to its garage appointment.

I don't believe it to be because of the battery change, not if it was done correctly. Have you noticed any other unusual electrical behaviour? Do the locks lock and unlock themselves seemingly randomly? What body style is this car and how old? I have come across 2 estate mk1s from 2001ish that have had flooding in the little "hidden" compartment in the left side of the luggage compartment. Both of those cars had odd locking behaviour and indicator/brake light problems.

Doesn't it say in your owner's manual, in the technical data section? I'd just buy a 4 litre can and go from there, there is an allowable oil range so you're unlikely to under fill if you get at least 4 litres, if it isn't full after that then go get a smaller can and top up saving the remainder in the boot for later topping up.

This one does for me.

Hey A friend has swapped their Peugeot for a Fiat. I'm just wondering what (if available to the public) is Fiat's equivalent of Skoda's Erwin and Peugeot's Service box? Regards

If you are sure all components and control units are fine then wiring or connectors are quite likely to blame. I don't know the details for your car, but pins 4 and 6 are likely the EGR valve pins. Pin 4 should be power feed and 6 should be a ground switched control line.

Ahh damn it. I read OBD II, and didn't remember that OBD11 was a thing. Sorry for the confusing reply.

VAG specific codes won't always have a corresponding OBD2 code, so yes, some will never appear on a generic OBD2 tool.

Unless it annoys you or shows a fault, leave it. EVAP isn't critical for engine function, although it can lead to emissions issues under certain circumstances.

Him and Nando going to partner up for Le Mans Seriously though I'm glad he got out of F1 and can start hopefully getting enjoyment from racing again.

For OBD2 standard code reading and live data you can expect most OBD2 devices to perform somewhat equally. Some (ie. more expensive ones) will be superior with regards to data logging and visualisation and whatnot, but they're generally the same. It's in the manufacturer specific stuff is where it gets a bit more annoying. I don't understand why you bought a reasonably expensive device that isn't specified to work with your car, and why you didn't go for something tailored for European cars or Skodas specifically.