bread82

Yeah, I noticed that too on ETKA, no mention of EGR. Perhaps it's PCV controlled by the oil separator big plastic plate down on the front of the block, via an internal gallery? The exhaust mani is siamesed inside the block so there could be anything going on in there. Could be coolant, but I just realised there's only one hole so I don't know where it could form a circuit to. I'm gonna take a look into the intake mani when I remove the throttle, in case I can see where the hole comes out. Thanks for your help 🙂

Sorry, I should have put details; 2013 Citigo, 1.0 mpi CHYA.

So I was looking in my throttle body the other day, and its a bit oily/sooty (76k miles). I'm going to clean it, but this got me thinking about any PCV or EGR system on the car. The breather valve on the rocker cover: Non-Return Valve Škoda 04E103175 (skoda-parts.com) Which way is this meant to flow? On mine, I can blow through it into the rocker cover, and feel the air push from the filler cap hole if I put my hand over it. But when I suck, nothing, the valve is closed. I initially thought this was a PCV valve designed to extract crankcase fumes into the intake, but its pipe links before the throttle body, so there would never be any inlet vacuum there, and in any case my valve won't allow sucking. Is it designed to leak makeup air into the rocker cover (in which case my valve only letting air into the head means it is correct?). Diagrams/pictures of the inlet manifold show 3x green seals for the individual runners, and a 4th smaller seal to one side. Does anyone know what this is for? It looks to enter the inlet tract just below the throttle body, which would make it a good position for any EGR or PCV system and therefore a source of oily soot.... or is it for coolant? If I clean and refit the throttle I think I will need to "relearn" it with VCDS, but some people say it self learns if you leave the ignition on first click, any preferences? Cheers, Bread

Thanks. Tomorrow I will explore the lower travel on my actuator rod again. I think I had similar millimetres of travel to you Could be my spring is porked, Could be the vanes are gummed up and the spring isn't meaty enough to push through the gum, in which case hand movement might help.

I've managed to move the actuator rod by hand (using pliers - its tight behind the BXE and the EGR cooler and actuator bracket don't give much room). Push rod up into actuator~1cm, let go, rod drops back down briskly by itself. There's a slight squeak which I suspect to be either air moving within the diaphragm or the rod as it enters the actuator. Seems like there's only 1cm of range and I don't want to force her. I try pushing rod further *down* and it moves about a cm that way but feels a little gummy, and it stays down, doesn't spring up. Then back up to the top and it drops back by itself. Does the vacuum suck the rod "up" on these turbos? I think there are Garrett and 3K versions, not sure which I have. So the rod's preferred relaxed position might be in the middle of possible ranges. Hard to say whether it drops back to dead bottom or just to its middle position, it's hard to see the movement exactly because of poor access. I suppose I could paint a mark on it. Take the car out for a spin, no fault codes. Car drives fine and on a second and third gear max throttle pull to ~4500 rpm. Pictured: In second, the boost spikes at about 3000 rpm in second to a large 1.35 bar. However within 1 sec it's controlled to 1bar and stays at 1 bar until I shift. Third gear, the boost barely exceeds 1 bar (1.05 bar) from 3000 to 4500 rpm. I'm assuming: that at max throttle and max rpm, the VVT vanes would have to be fully open else overboost. So the fact that it can hold 1bar is encouraging that I have decent range of motion of the vanes. But I'm spiking boost so maybe the mechanism is a tad sticky which delays response? Or is 3000 rpm the "naughty spot" where the compressor hits max boost at average airflow, and at higher RPM the turbo can't supply mega boost at mega high airflow so it's easier to avoid overboost there?

Hi, Does anyone know the standard amount of boost for a BXE 1.9 PD engine? I ask because I have recently had a power loss when pulling through the revs, which has since sorted itself, but I suspect sticky VNT vanes, or bad turbo actuation. Previous history: 5000 miles (about a year ago) I popped a boost hose off and encountered similar symptoms, but this hose was refitted and is still secure. At this time, I also cleaned the EGR and ASV and it's run fine since - although I did not renew the gaskets, I can see no leaks (soap solution on the EGR joins does not bubble). Car does a lot of 20 mile journeys but once a week I get her warm and pull her through the gears until 4000 rpm. Recently I completed a 100 mile M-way journey which was mostly low throttle in 5th gear. When near home I pulled out of a services onto the slip road and booted her, she pulled fine until 3500 rpm in third, then felt like she's lost all boost, limped 10 miles home. No check engine light. Today I fired her up after checking the boost hose from before was still OK, it was. Vacuum hose from pump looks on OK, vacuum hose to turbo actuator looks on OK. Car now runs fine even when revved. I then do another test run with a cheapo OBD-2 dongle wirelessed to phone mounted on the dash, no fault codes show up, and I select "MAP sensor" as a realtime readout. Car runs fine through the revs and at idle MAP is ~100kPa i.e atmospheric. At full throttle around 3000-4000 rpm I get 220 kPa i.e 1.2 bar of boost which settles to around 200-210 kPa (1.0-1.1 bar boost). Again, car feels fine. Questions: i) What should my MAP/boost be maxxing out at? ii) If overboosting caused by sticky vanes, should I just get her warmed up and intermittently rag her a bit more to work the vanes back and forth? I'm aware of the Mr Muscle fix but I don't want to disassemble things yet based on an intermittent fault. Cheers