simannjo

Thanks for the 'clickable' link... If Google doesn't know, I... (the average driver) doesn't know...

Speaks volumes about your garage, however... Are a they bad garage.. or... perhaps just a good garage busy... What is worst? A bad garage not busy or a good garage busy that the only thing they get wrong is the mileage reset thingy? Only you will know...

Pressed enter before i should have!

?... Evidence? Not saying your're wrong... I love being educated. If its happening, its happening. Its better that every driver that's interested knows about it before they go into a stealership...

Del.. You've just cost me £18! Just had my first Grand-daughter and I have that exact same model... I can only imagine the conversations about when cars ACTUALLY had wheels...

Know your car like you know your partner... and all the drama is the same if you get it wrong. A regen is not gonna make a difference to the oil level. The 'theorists' are correct in theory, but its just not gonna happen. Over fueling can make the oil level higher, but in your case, (modern fuel controlled diesel)... no. We ARE going back to the iron age by measuring oil level by nothing more than a stick. But... Its important, but not by any means as much as some make us think. Blast down lots of motorways on the minimum oil level (by the dipstick) and you'll be fine... However... Some of us care a bit more than a guess. And the dipstick is a way of us getting past the guess. If its more than minimum - and on 'good' oil... - Crack on!

They might do agents... Ring Shark Performance, tell them what you have, tell them where you are... and listen...

I love the fact that VAG is so popular that many companies are willing to take the OEM and change it. - Even improve upon it! That makes it more interesting for those in the know - But more confusing for the regular user.. Devil in the detail... The expected life is 50 - 60K Miles for the Organic Kit, and 20 - 30k for the Sintered Kit We also offer an OEM Sachs DMF with Sachs SRE Clutch Kit if you want to retain the comfort of a Dual Mass

I imagine you'll have issues if you go outside of Skoda. If you've had servicing outside of VAG, then you'll need to prove its been to the same standard. This can be ascertained by showing manufacturers part numbers for non VAG parts that are manufactured to the same standard as OEM. Sometimes easy, sometimes not. Depends who makes the OEM filter and which one was fitted during the 'INDY' service... EG - If MANN or CROSSLAND filters make the original Skoda part - And you have an invoice showing a MANN or CROSSLAND filter was fitted during your INDY service (including part number) then it should be OK...

Sorry Keiran, don't get your hopes up... I'd be happy its not costing £150 a side, simply because you're doing it yourself. Have fun spending money and saving money at the same time! ...and bathe in the glory!

I'm not TOO surprised - I wonder why no Single...

Perfect attitude - And it will suit the Superb! Defo worth looking after the 4X4 and G/Box - Look for a specialist independent - They look at these forums also! I and my family were born in the motor trade. With several VAG motors among us, Not a VAG 'fixed' motor exists... I would revert back to 'traditional' VAG... Ive heard good things from Shark Performance J28 M1... and if your'e feeling flush - The upgrade in BHP for the 4x4 is very much well thought of!

I think that's it exactly... If you pay for comfort or refinement - Dual mass... If cost/money keeps you awake - Single mass... Consider whats most important and accept it.

http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/dieselinfo/trust-building-measure/ Info here - for the UK anyway...

Hi 26Dipp It was a standard 1990's disc cleaner with small brushes... BUT its generally not recommended. Most issues seem to be with download/burn. Don't forget to lower burn rate to minimum. A verified burn on PC can still be an issue for the Columbus.

Sorry to frighten you... Merry Christmas!

The 'regular' 4 wheel alignment units have measuring brackets on front wheels and 'target' brackets on the back. Even though brackets on all 4 wheels, this is only measuring the front wheel alignment. To measure the rear wheel alignment, the brackets would be swapped around. The tyre centres call this 4 wheel alignment - It is not! A specialist wheel alignment centre would have a system that 'measures' all angles on all 4 wheels at the same time and any adjustment that effects the other angles on other wheels can be seen. Its the only proper way. Time consuming and therefore costly, but everyone i know that has had it done gets a car back that drives straight, with a straight steering wheel. Sometimes having had an unknown bent/worn suspension arm replaced! Again, most regular units are now laser and measure all the angles - but the way its used would determine whether its front or rears that are being measured. I think you're onto the right issue with alignment and probably the rears.

A small amount of air getting into the fuel system would cause your symptoms. The issue is where... This would suggest Skoda also believe air ingress, but dont know where. If 2 workshops are unable to find where, there are only a few options... Replace parts until cured. Wait to see if problem gets worse and becomes easier to diagnose. Sell vehicle. In the first instance I would initially increase first crank time to 10 seconds to see if it makes a difference and then learn how to use VCDS to investigate further using Ross-Tech forum for help. Good luck.

How long are you holding the key in the crank position? Do you leave ignition on for any length of time before cranking?

If the rear wheels are out of alignment due to spring change, it would have a rear wheel steering effect. The fronts would have to be turned so the car appears to be going straight, but in effect is slightly 'crab like' and in effect going sideways. When you went for wheel alignment, did he check the rear or front? The front might be OK but the issue is the rear trying to turn the car... The 10% thing is in relation to the tolerance of the measurement. Wheel alignment has a minimum and a maximum. It also has several 'angles' that have to be considered that may effect things. - Toe, Camber and Castor. Again, one could be OK but another change the steering effect. The only way to be sure is full 4 wheel alignment at and alignment centre not a dealer, tyre place or local garage - No matter what they say.

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Numskull's right... I too know it very well after having a 2001 Astra diesel that used to sound as though the bottom end was falling out when the cold engine was first started and revved up. My CR170 also has the same noise under the same (variable) conditions. I hardly notice it now. I believe its down to pre-injection to increase cylinder pressures for better (cleaner) combustion under engine warm up scenarios. Exact pre-injection timing and quantity (and therefore noise) variable due to different engine temp, air temp, throttle position and load. A 'bit' of info here... Search Analysis of noise emitted from diesel engines by S Narayan

What reason?

Many thanks for the post. I too have had the same grumblings with the Columbus to look at the Android unit options, and have also came to the same conclusions. Better in some respects but worse in others. It really is subjective and whether the owner can live with certain aspects of either choice. No doubt that if the Columbus packed up then I would replace it with a Columbus looking Android unit. I do think the flat screen looks nicer but the fingerprints would drive me to distraction. Also, I listen to DAB through a phone mostly, and it takes an age to connect to my Samsung S7, so DAB would have to be faultless for me. - Oh and the Maxi-dot

It could simply be something as simple as clutch plate dust build up on the input shaft splines dragging the centre plate.... Still needs the gearbox removing... There is nothing more sure than 'the more you think about it, the more it will cost...' Wait until there is no doubt.