nimbus

Yeah 750cc inline 4 air-cooled, sadly the brand is gone

Hi, I tried it one day, well after a longer trip, the engine started to "shake"( like it doesn't work on 4 cylinders). I don't know if it's related with E10, but since this happened i only use E5.

This

Hi, If you do it outside, then you should put metal or wooden plates on the support points (where the jacks stands are and the crane). One advises, already begins to remove the driveshaft, but not the cylindrical part that is in the garbox, if you want to avoid some troubles. It's quite easy to get the lower suspension arm away, and you will have more space work. Greetings from Denmark

Yes, but residues are blocked at the bottom. It's also impossible to accessed with a screwdriver, even with a toothpick...

Hello everybody. I need help with the drive shaft sealing ring, which is in the gearbox (the differential). About three weeks ago, I successfully changed my drive shaft (front passenger side). But at the beginning of this week, I was able to see an oil leak. The oil exits between the drive shaft bell and the differential. Haynes strongly recommends changing the seal. (which I did not do ... unfortunately). Now I have removed the drive shaft and the old gasket. The seal stuck so tightly that I could only bring it out in small crumbs. I bought two sealing rings because I thought they corresponded to the original. I notice that the first one is wrapped in metal. The second does not have a hollow surface to pick up the edge (framed in orange on the picture). i buyed those seals : Part number 002301227E is wrapped in metal. Part number 002301227C has a smooth surface and has nearly the same diameter as the edge (framed in orange on the picture). So my question wich is the good one to use ? Part number 002301227C ? Second question: How do I remove the residue from the old seal? Can i really install the new seal like described by Haynes ??? Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi, Is that a driveshaft oil seal ?? Because it doesn't look like this part number : 002301227E (part number 4)=> http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FEL/year/2000/drive_standart/101/hg_ug/311/subcategory/311025/part_id/2547259/lang/e

Hi, some infos here :

@Papez Same here.

Also while driving, the fan doesn't kicks in, even with a 77C switch. So for the engine, the consuption... it's the same as the original switch. Anyway, it's the best mod i did on the car.

Hi, I want to give my opinion/experience. I got a thermo switch of a skoda 120, it goes on at 77 degrees. The temperature gauge still goes up to the middle mark, so approx. 90 degrees as it should.

Hi, The engine model 165M doesn't exist. It's 135M or 136M. (136M got 68 HP) Anyway, check out this link : http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/ I found the part number 6U0919501B

Thanks for the advise @RicardoM.

Hello everyone, I'm currently changing the driveshaft of the right side. But I’m in trouble to insert the new one in the differential. Haynes says it only need to be push in, but, oh boy, that isn't easy. I wanted to know if it’s possible to use a hammer on the wheel side. Or is there any other tips and tricks? Also is it recommended to use the vibration damper?

Going far north with the Felicia, around 8000 km in three week's

That's good to know

Feedback : I'm considering myself as a newbie. So it wasn't that hard to take off the front cover (black colored part of the dash) by following the Haynes instruction. In my opinion, the upper cover of the steering column isn't easy to take off. The shop where i usually buy my parts didn't have these sorts of bulbs that are installed on the Felicia dashboard. So i took the one of the airbag lamp (I don't have airbags). Important: Make sure the speedo cable is good plugged to the speedometer during the refitting. Mine fall out again, so i had to make the removal refitting two times.

So, I checked the bulbs and fuse number 7 and 8. i set it under tension, and i got 12v on left and right side. Connected to the bulbs and it works again !? but not the symbol on the dash. I think i need to change that led.

Hello everyone, So, my low beams don’t work, as say in the title. Also, the logo on the dashboard isn't switched on. I'm planning to check two devices: the switch itself and the "main light relay". Concerning the switch: I want to change the position light switch (that is working) with the low beam. If after that change, the low beams work, then I could conclude that the switch is dead. Question: - Is it necessary to take the hole dash out for taking out the light’s switches? Concerning the relay: I know that haynes electrical diagrams aren't that good. But at chapter/page 12-28. I can read that there is a relay called "i" that should activate? the main lights. But at page 12-20, I can't find he's position... Does this relay even exist? if yes, where is it located?

I have doubts about the torque of this bolt. From haynes I understand it should be 55 Nm. Is that correct ?

Oh yes, i found it out, it's all right. Thanks.

Hi everyone, I’m currently trying to change the rear mount off the gearbox. I don’t see how to take off this nut. I wanted to know if this screw head needs to be hold, for taking off the nut.

OHO, well then it's time to check them 😅 Thanks

Hi everyone, I write my question here, because i don't want to open a new topic just for that. I’m currently planning a 4500km road trip with the felicia. And I’m thinking if I should check the valve adjustments or just go after the moto " don't touch it if it works". When should this job be done? I’m also curious about why should the air temperature be below 20 degrees, when adjusting the valves? Thanks.

You should also check the connectors of the MAP sensor.