h4mza

Recently bought a VRS and previous owner mentioned it just had new oil cooler fitted as old one failed and recommended me to do a coolant flush as the coolant inside expansion tank was black. Tested the car and everything worked fine, no leaks, no overheating, heaters working perfect etc. Now few days later I've just done a coolant flush and my heaters no longer blow hot air. I drained the radiator, added distilled water to max, started car then added more water until max and then added radiator flush. Let the car idle with cap off for 30 mins with heaters on full, no hot air blowing, temp reached to 90 and still no hot air and expansion tank not bubbling/boiling etc. Put cap back on and went for 10 min drive, still no hot air from heater and temp still at 90 so no overheating issue here. Parked the car to let it cool down for an hour then drained the radiator and added fresh coolant. Let car idle with cap off for 30 mins with heaters on. Still no hot air coming through and car reached correct temp at 90. Now have driven the car for a couple miles and temp doesn't go above 90 so I assume this means it doesn't overheat and there is no airlock in system? The car fully warms up in 10-15 mins so I assume thermostat is working fine. Just can't figure out why my heaters don't blow hot air anymore. Was fine before so I don't know what's gone wrong. Can anyone help please, thanks

Hi all, I have a 2003 Fabia VRS which has just hit 150k. I've had the car for 2 years and problems started appearing in the recent months when it started to lose coolant every few weeks. I do a lot of short trips to work consisting of 100 miles a week. So I just top up and go. I then noticed the heaters don't work well, they work on all settings but don't blow hot air, just warm air. The other day I took the car to motorway and coolant light came up flashing which seemed quite strange because I had checked if it's topped up before starting my journey. I also noticed the temperature needle was above 90, it was near full position. So most likely the car overheated. I pulled over and let the car cool down for 30 minutes then checked the coolant level and the expansion tank was almost empty. I did not have enough coolant to top it up with so I put like 1/4 of coolant and the rest water and carried on driving but stayed below 50 mph because if I went over 50 mph the temperature needle would rise above 90. I managed to get home safely but coolant light came up again just when I got around the corner of my house. The next day I parked the car in my drive and added water to expansion tank and looked underneath to see any drips for leaks but couldn't see anything. Having done bit of internet research, I've been told this might be a head gasket failure or water pump leaking. I've checked the oil cap and there is no creamy gunk there or in expansion tank. The timing belt was done nearly 50k ago. I haven't had chance to take it to garage to get it checked but was wondering if anyone on here could help me or knows about this issue as I've found it's quite common for these cars to lose coolant.

My car started to lose coolant every other week and when I open the expansion tank cap, it builds pressure and leaks from the bottom. The coolant is rusty brownish colour. I've checked the oil and it's fine so don't think oil and coolant are mixing. So far I've been topping it up with water for temp fix. Recently the car stopped blowing hot air, just warm air and it's not warm enough even when car is fully warmed up. The heaters however work on all 4 settings. Now the problem has gotten worse. The car is losing coolant after a short drive, say like 20-30 mins and temperature needle is rising above 90. I drove on motorway at 70mph and temperature needle was fully at 130 and coolant light started flashing. I needed like 1 and half litre of water to top up. I had to pull over to let car cool down for 30 mins then drove it under 50mph with temperature needle between 90 and 3/4. Would anyone know what could be causing this.

I'm in need of new door speakers as my standard ones seem to be blown, they are very distorted even on low volume. I've got MK4 Golf adaptors and was told I need 6.5" speakers with maximum of 55mm depth. I saw these JVC ones eBay for £20 and was wondering if anyone who knows much about speakers/audio could tell whether these are any good? If not could you recommend me some decent ones for under £50. I do however plan on sub and amp near future but for now just need decent enough speakers to replace standard ones. Here is the link to eBay ones I've seen https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191153266996

When I bought the car, I found the speakers to be distorted and rattling, replacing the head unit with an aftermarket Sony one didn't help. Few months later my window regulator shat itself so I replaced it with a whole second hand unit with OEM speaker attached to it which sounded fine until few weeks later it started to become distorted. I took both door cards off the other day to check how the speakers are mounted and found that some of the foam surround has fallen off which I assume is the reason they sound distorted. Hence I would like to replace it with something better quality. After bit or researching I found MK4 Golf adaptors do fit so they are on the order and I've not made my mind up on speakers yet.

Hi I have a 2003 VRS and both front door speakers are blown. It's been like this for a while but now I want to upgrade to something better that should last longer. I've found that it is 6.5" speaker size that I need with MK4 Golf adaptor rings. Has anyone ever upgraded their door speakers and what speakers do you have as I've no clue what to go for. Also would it be better to get MDF rings for better sound quality? I'm not good with electrics and on a budget so don't want an amp and sub, just decent enough replacement speakers. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks

As mentioned before I've already tried a second hand genuine door lock module and it deadlocked my car so hence I bought an eBay knock off one. It's a 2003 Fabia VRS.

Hi can someone please advise me on what to do as it's quite urgent. My driver's door has never locked/unlocked with key fob since I bought it and I always had to manually lock/unlock it with a key. I managed to pick a whole door from scrapyard and swapped over the door lock module. I tested it whilst the door was left wide open by pressing lock/unlock on fob and could see the door lock pin pushing up and down so I assumed everything is ok. So I then shut the door and it became deadlocked!!! I could not open it at all from inside or outside. I hadn't even pressed the lock button on fob yet. Luckily I didn't have door card fitted at this point and I hadn't put back the window. I spent countless hours trying to open it by fiddling with the cable that connects to outer door handle and managed to get it opened. So this time I put back my old door lock module and now the problem is even worse. I can no longer lock my door at all, not even with the key in. I thought I must've missed something but nope, I've took everything off and put it back together 4 times already and I still can't lock my door with the key. So I then ordered a brand new replacement part from eBay and I've fitted it and I'm having the same problem. The door just won't lock not even with key either. I'm lost for ideas now, I just don't know what to do. Can someone shed some light on this please? Am I missing something?

Yeah looks like I'm gonna buy one off eBay, saves the hassle of repairing old one. Just hope I could get to those spline bolts as one of them is rusty.

Thanks for quick replies, so I just buy one of these and just fit it and it should work? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131139747603

My driver side door lock is playing up and doesn't lock or unlock with fob so I have to use key manually. I was thinking whether a replacement door lock module from scrapyard would work or is there some sort of programming required?

Took my car to garage for oil and filter change and whilst the car was up in ramp, the under tray was wet and covered in black gunk, possibly oil? Once the undertray was removed, I saw the the intercooler and pipe was also covered in black grease. Is there any way oil could pass around them because I'm assuming it might be the oil lol. I did however have lower intercooler pipe come off once which I screwed back on to stop it from coming off again. The main thing is when the mechanic removed the sump drain plug, something didn't look right with the sump. It's hard to explain but there are chunks of metal hanging from just below where the bolt screws into. I have included a picture to show. Could this be the cause of oil leak?

So I'm about to renew my insurance for the 4th year and I've been with the same company Admiral since my 1st year of driving as they have been cheapest for me but this time I have a different car, Fabia VRS, and my renewal quote came out to £1646 which is far too much than expected. I only paid £640 last year on my first car which was 99 Honda Civic 1.5 then in middle of this year I bought a Golf MK5 1.9 and I had to pay £400 extra to insure it but the Golf was pile of heap, so got rid of it for Fabia and got £50 refund. So I paid roughly around £1,000 on insurance for 3rd year which I still wasn't happy with but had no other option. I'm 24 and now earned 3 years no claim bonus and have had clean license for 5 years with both parents as named drivers who have clean license for over 20 years. I have shopped around on comparison sites and cheapest I'm getting is £1100. I'm hoping if I could get a quote for under £700. Does anyone know of any insurance companies that will insure me cheaper?

It's bit of a pain replacing the front door speakers as they are riveted on.

I haven't really noticed which particular point because it only happens every now and then when the car just feels like becoming stubborn. I will make a note when it happens next. Just last week the PAS light came on and the steering felt like hell. Switched the car off and light went away and steering has been fine since but I don't think it's actually perfect as stated above.