Chris485VRS

Hi If these are still available i need a set for my 2009 FL VRS CL170 estate. Tried to PM you but it says you can't use the messaging system. cheers Chris

That's ok! My used ebay pump has been on the car a few months now and the light has not returned so I'm happy. If I shut the engine down after some 'enthusiastic' driving OI can just about hear a whizzing sound that i never noticed before changing the pump so I guess it's doing it's job : ) It's a very easy job to change it, the most difficult part is getting the under tray back on!

I realise this is an old (ish) thead, but I'm looking for info on a solid flywheel kit for the 2.0 CR engine. Euro Car Parts seem to sell one (it says it's for the CEGA engine code which I think is correct). Anybody done the conversion on a CR engine or know anybody that has? thanks! (If anybody local to me in Stockton fancies taking my car for a spin to see if they think my DMF is failing that would be amazing.... I think it is on it's way out but my opinion is only based on descriptions I have read online. i could be wrong!)

Hi guys, I found this thread when looking for the same thing... I have a 2.0CR 170 Octavia (2009 pre FL, limited edition) and I 'think' the flywheel or something else in the clutch may be on it's way out. I'm on approx 75,000 miles. I can feel a judder through the clutch pedal when pressing down and lifting off during gear changes, although it is more noticeable between the lower gears. I might be making it up, but I think it's worse when the engine is cold, although I suppose the engine will obviously be running more smoothly when warmed up so any vibration transmitted though the clutch is going to be more noticeable isn't it? It's worst when pulling away in first, especially doing a hill start when there is a little extra strain. If I keep the handbrake on and let the clutch up gently in first gear i can definitely feel it 'kicking' through the pedal. So have I got a flywheel on it's way out or is this normal for VW TDI engines? I've driven loads of other diesels including Citroen vans, Toyota pick ups and various Fords... and I have never felt anything through the clutch pedal. I'm also semi convinced that I can feel something 'wobbling' when the car is driving. I have checked the tyres for uneven wear and flat spots and the wheels have been balanced. When it was serviced I asked my mechanic to give all the suspension and steering bushes etc a look over, and in general the car feels very tight and the steering is very precise with no slack. I have been told that a failing DMF can sometimes be felt as vibration through the car.... any thoughts on this?

Why on earth has this not sold? I paid double for my car a few months ago. ok it's an estate, 2 years newer and a bit lower mileage (but not a lot) but this is a bargain! If I didn't need an estate I'd be selling mine and getting this.

Just an update on this in case anybody stumbles across this thread in the future.... I called my local Skoda dealer and told them I needed a V178 coolant pump. They initially gave me a price for a tyre compressor as the guy read 'electric pump' on some list and thought that's what I needed. I realised it was too cheap and questioned him and he realised his mistake.... anyway. They wanted something around £140 for the part plus fitting, inc vat it would have been £224 and some pennies. I went on the official Skoda parts website and the part was 'on offer' at £100 plus £6 postage... so why are the dealers asking full price? Anyway, I got the part number (the actual part number, not V178 which isn't the part number). It is 5N0965561 Searching on ebay for 'Skoda' and 'V178' wasn't finding much other than a generic bosch pump that may have worked but was a totally different shape. Now i had the part number ebay gave me better luck and turned up a load of pumps from various VWs and Audis. I got one for £40. There were some for less and some for more but I just liked the look of the seller... good feedback etc and the pump still had parts of hose connected so i had a few spare clips. The service manual reckons the turbo pipe needs to come off. This is true if you want to remove the small bracket the pump attaches to. However you can use mole grips to remove 3 small bolts and then it's just two hose clips and the electrical connector. To replace the pump itself is literally a 15 min job and I am no mechanic. It takes more time to top the coolant up and run the car up to temp with the expansion cap off to get the air out. I just need to drive it for a couple of days and hope the warning light stays off now : )

Didn't know about erWin, thanks... looks like a very useful resource

So.... I just found another slightly different wording for the fuse layout. rather than just "water pump" as stated in the manual, the online one i found says "water pump for fuel dosing". I know some cars have an additive tank for 'adblu' to be added to the fuel. I am not aware of any mk2 octavias that do this and searching for "octavia fuel dosing" on google doesn't find anything relevant. At least this sounds like the fuse has nothing to do with the coolant pump I am getting the error code for. Which makes me think.... which fuse is it then? Any ideas?

After over a month of ownership and approx 1500 miles, I got an EML light on the dash. I had it plugged in and the code was P261A which is an intermittent open circuit for the additional coolant pump. I understand that this is the V178 electric pump which circulates the engine coolant after a hot shut down. I have had the job priced up but before going ahead I wanted to check fuses etc. I opened my ebox up and wondered what all the missing fuses were. Most of them are things my car doesn’t have such as an auto gear box. But fuse F20 is missing and the manual says this is “water pump”. Can anybody clarify which water pump this fuse is for? It’s obviously not the window washers and the main engine pump is mechanical so all I can think of is that this missing fuse is for the electric additional pump. Might there have been a problem and the previous owner has removed the fuse to get rid of the dash light? I’ve had the car over a month and already done 1500 miles so surely it wouldn’t have taken so long for the light to come on if the fault already existed. I am curious just to pop a 10amp use in the slot and see what happens but I thought I’d get some advice on here first. Any help appreciated : )

Thanks for the reply. I haven't had the rears checked for balance yet but I'm certain something is out of true. My brother has just swapped his audi wheels so might put his oem ones on my car to see if it improves the ride. I put a gopro on the bonnet the other day and video is super smooth.... Put it on the rear glass and it's unwatchable due to vibration.

I have just had this code come up on my 2009 170CR VRS. It came on as soon as I pulled out of a petrol station after filling up with the expensive diesel for the first ever time. Assumed it was an emissions warning until getting it plugged in to find it was the P261A (09754) code. Cleared the code, but after an hour and about 3-4 engine restarts the light came back. I will check the connections later if I can reach (I have no ramps). Even if it's a new pump I'm not bothered as long as I know what it is and can deal with it. These pumps seem to fail a lot if you look around the VW / Seat forums.

Was this ever followed up? I have just got the same code (randomly after putting premium diesel in for the first time, but that's probably unrelated). Code was cleared but has come back after 3 engines restarts and about half hour of driving. thanks!

I am now the owner of no 485. Based in Stockton on Tees. Currently has 70,500 miles on the clock. What's the story with these alloys? People seem to suggest there is a problem with them. I know my car feels like something is off balance or not quite round. Front has been balanced and tracking checked... need to look at the rear next but if there is a problem with these wheels can somebody fill me in on the details? thanks

Thanks for the update. Bushes / mounts are something I want to get checked out on mine. i can feel a bit of movements when putting the power on and letting off.... I know it's a powerful engine (compared to what I had before) but I'm not convinced I should feel as much 'roll' form the engine as I do.

Thanks... Mine has it on the outer edge. i will take it to be checked and get a print out... but I just want to have an idea what i should be expecting. If it's an outer edge issue should I expect to see that my camber is a negative figure? i know it's not just camber and that bad toe angles will destroy tyres even with perfect camber... but as it's likely my car has never had the new settings released by Skoda it's camber I am interested in.

When everybody mentions saw-toothing / feathering in relation to the camber issue, are we talking about the inside edge? What would cause feathering on the outer edge?

Might be an old thread but I wonder if anybody can tell me if saw-toothing / feathering on the outer edge is caused by the incorrect camber angle. My car is a 2009 VRS estate and I assume it has the old settings. I am going to get a free 4 wheel alignment check at the local Bosch centre. They claim to have all the latest settings but I would rather know what they should be than trust them to know. I don’t understand if the numbers people are using are positive / negative. People say they run ‘negative’ camber… does that mean the bottom of the wheel is further out than the top (like a traktor) or is that positive camber? As my tyres are saw-toothing on the outer edge I would have though this means the wheels are set up so that the top is further out than the bottom... Can anybody explain this to me, I don’t want to end up making the car worse! Thanks!

https://flic.kr/p/x7c1Ko https://flic.kr/p/x7YJfa

Thanks for the photos... It looks reasonably strong. Stronger than the one that is fitted with the car anyway. Can't wait to get it. I'm keeping an eye out for any deals on that slimline pioneer sub.

Thanks... I will have to check the inside edge. I can see that there is a little saw-tooth pattern on the outer edges though. A few days ago i had no idea what saw-toothing was, then I looked at my tyres and though" ah... that's what they mean!" There is quite a bit of road noise from the back end and I'm sure the bearings are fine so I am guessing something could do with some adjustment.

Thanks guys... I have just the standard mat right now (grey carpet with some sort of plastic lines running along the length). It has a thin fibre-board panel on the bottom but only in the shape of a circle where the wheel well is. The entire mat isn't so strong. The problem with it is it isn't supported well along the rear edge. It's fine towards the rear seats and the rear corners of the car. As the dog moves around she seems to be shifting the mat to the point where the fibre-board circle part isn't sitting right and the whole thing collapses into the hole. (there's no wheel in there). I often carry some P.A speakers and amplifiers around so I have planned to do 'something' with the boot since before buying the car. I was weighing up the cost of the real deal with the cheapness of slapping a bit of plyboard in the back until i spotted a false floor kit on ebay the other night and bought it. It's from a seller based in the Czech republic who seems to sell nothing but Skoda parts. £130 including delivery to the UK! I was hoping the bottom panel was pretty strong but if it turns out to be pretty much the same as the standard one then i will just put a piece of thin board underneath it. Whist on the subject of the variable / false boot floor... how about this for a little bit of audio enhancement!? My boy racer 'huge sub' days are over... but I still like my music to sound good. This thing seems ideal : )

Can anybody tell me if the bottom panel is just flimsy thin material like the standard mat that comes with the car? Or is it a bit stronger? I want to use the bottom panel for the dog and keep the upper folding panel clean and hair free. But the dog collapses the standard mat into the wheel well... So will the bottom mat with the false floor kit be any stronger?

Hi I just got my 2009 VRS (CR 170 limited edition - pre FL) Was there a certain year that Skoda fixed this issue or is it safe to assume that if you have never had the alignment corrected that it is on the old settings? thanks