mpow3r

Hi JOhn It Definintely does not feel like limp mode what so ever. The power felt good and it was consistent compared to maf plugged in. Im still having problems using mpps but will do the vcds logs you mention and get back to you. I'll do a search on what you mean by group 8 and 3 put up the results tomorrow after work. Would damage anything if i drove about 30 miles tomorrow with MAF unplugged?

Hey guys, I have hybrid pd130 turbo, fmic, eg/asv delete and decat and ive been having intermittent issues with car losing power and blowing black smoke out when accelerating, I then get off throttle and press again but feed it rather than slam down and it will go like stink. I've noticed that at night when air is colder I dont have this problem and the car just fly's as soon as it comes on boost. What I did today was unplug the MAF and go for a quick drive. The car seems to pull better!!!! I got a little more black smoke on a couple of pulls but the power is more consistent than with MAF plugged in. I take it that this means MAF is fooked right? Thing is I put VCDS on and only error I get the alternator load signal. No mention of MAF fault. What could this mean? I dont want to pay £100 odd for a MAF and find it didnt solve anything. Many thanks in advance Kash

I had this on my mk4 golf a couple of weeks after having wheel bearing replaced. Turned out to be tyre. It had worn funny anyway and once replaced it was fine. Iirc a weight had fallen off as well. It did sound similar to wheel bearing but garage said change tyre and you'll be fine and they were right.

OK Thanks, saves me buying another 90deg Elbow. Do you know where I can buy the right angled aluminium pipe? Or is it just a 45deg pipe? The leg that goes to the intercooler is shorter than the one that goes to the elbow connected to the egr delete. Or do you think a Mikalor clip will stop it coming off under high boost? btw, the beading I meant in the post above yours is the actual aluminium/metal pipe having beaded ends (littl shoulder on the pipe at either end) Thanks for confirmation

No catch can. From what others have said its coming through hose as hose may be breaking down. I shortened the pipe that comes from intercooler to egr delete but noticed that the pipe was not aluminium, its solid steel, looks to be exhaust piping and neither of the ends are beaded. So after shortening took it for a blast and guess what? Heard a loud bang and the the pipe had popped out of the hose at the bumper. I think the clamp may need to be renewed. I'll get some mikalor clamps. What angle is the pipe? Looks about 45 deg? Or is there anywhere I can buy just that specific pipe with the right angle, right leg lengths and with beaded ends? Its the pipe in the 2nd pic in first post. Many thanks

Thanks for the detailed reply coskev. Will get this sorted and take it from there.

Thanks. Looks like I need a new 90deg hose and shorten the aluminium pipe. Would these be causing an issue though? Or will it turn into an issue if not sorted.

So what could the beads of vapour be from in the pic of the silicone hose? Oh and the pipe not being beaded going into silicon hose isnt an issue is it?

Ye you're right. That kink is because I pulled the intercoolee hose out a bit as it was right in the 90deg bend of the hose. Also, the pipe that comes from the intercooler doesnt have a knurled or round bit that these aluminium pipes have at both ends. I think i will take it off and shorten it slightly. I tried loosening the clip on the intercooler end and pushing the pipe down a bit but it wont budge so I think its a bumper off job and pull the hose off the intercooler side and pull it all off that way

OK Thanks. The rest of the hoses are red on mine. So if aritec dont supply hose in pic then it could well be airtec and it would also make sense why I haven't seen this big 90 deg one in the pics of their kits. Where on the bottom is it exactly? On the face or right underneath, like facing the ground? I can see airtec written anywhere on mine? Im wondering if they have a part number engraved anywhere. What would he symptoms of intercooler not cooling enough be? If it cant cool fully and you put your foot down does it retard timing so all that ends up happening is the car overfuels and chucks fuel out back in the form of black smoke?

Hey guys I was told that the intercooler on my fabia is an airtec one but from pics I have seen online they have Airtec written on the front and the top where as mine doesnt. It could be that it has worn off but is there another way of telling. I was also comparing their hoses that come with the kit and the one that goes from intercooler to egr delete is a lot smaller on the pics from their website, mine is very big. Im not sure but I may be suffering from heat soak. On motorways it is usually fine, only sometimes seems bogged down, most of the time goes like stink. In the evenings with more cooler air around it drives like its OD'd on redbull and no sign of heat soak. Other thing is I get residue on the intercooler to egr silicone pipe. I have pics below. Can anyone tell me: 1. what are symptoms of heatsoak from a crappy or malfunctioning intercooler 2. Is there any way I can tell if this is a genuine Airtec? or crappy chinese copy 3. Where is the residue from? Pipes are on solid so I dont understand where residue is coming from

OK, thank you.

sorry dumb question time... do i have to use same thickness of wire? Would something like speaker wire do? Thanks in advance

Thought that was quite funny myself. Thing is these types of questions get asked so much that people cant help but have a laugh sometimes. Its all harmless banter.... I would seriously not buy cheap coilovers, you WILL regret it mate. For road you will be better off with a good shocks/spring combo. I would save up for B8 dampers and eibach or H&R springs aka Bilstein B8 kit, very hard to beat on any car for road driving. I think AP or a similar make do purpose built shock spring combo with shortened shocks and lowering springs (search for fabia vrs on ebay). You will always be better off with shortened shocks when fitting lowering springs.

I bought mine with pb coilovers on it, I believe it's phatboy. Very impressed with them. They have 30 click adjustment and I was surprised to see that the clicks actually change th damping enough for it to make a difference. I changed from 15 clicks to 5 and car feels much better on the rubbish roads around my way.

Thanks so much mate. Explained perfectly for a dumbo like me.

I googled the fuse thing and tried it again by removing both them both, still didn't work.

can the plug including wiring be bought from main dealer? Wire from mine has been cut very short and im not even sure if it was re-connected properly. Anyone have the part number? Or can I just go there and ask them for the alternator load cable? Thanks

Hi, Im using Win7. Yes it picks up ECU fine but when I press "Read", it says reading but then comes up with the above error. Mine is MPPS 13.02

Just read the link its for loading file on. I need to take a copy of my file and send it to John. When it tries to read the ECU I get that error message. Could it be that the last remapper has locked the ECU?

OK thanks Will do this in Morning and go for a little drive.

Hello again, sorry, seem to be posting a lot about problems. Ive recently got hold of MPPS cable from ebay and installed software from Faboka and also tried a copy from CD that came with the cable (both were same). I get the error message below mpps error system can not find message text for message number 0X18f9d0 in the message file for setupapi.dll (error # 1636816) It sometimes asks for me to remove fuse 11 which I did but then I get message above. I've followed installation guide and also running MPPS app as administrator but getting this message. Anyone else have this or know what I am doing wrong? Many thanks

oh dear! No i didnt clear them. How do you clear the faults? Is it easy to work out by looking at screen? I dont want to mess anything up. I didnt go for 10min drive after, completely forgot to check that.

Yes thats where is was, I could see radiator drain plug very near it. It looks to be in casing so ill have to cut open the cover thats wrapped around the group of wires. Other problem is the wire inside was quite rusted and I kept on cutting right through so its right at the plug. I just abotu managed to wrap new wire around it. Can I buy that plug from skoda? That way I can make sure it is connected up properly?? I'll probably need part number off it right?

iirc blue was fine and this was yellow and green, defo 2 colours. Thing is after fixing it my courtesy lights started working. It was also on passenger side and not under alternator like the Seat guide said