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PedigreePaul

Finding my way
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  • Location
    Holland

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  • Model
    Skoda Favorit 135L 1989, 1982 Skoda 120L

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  1. I simply cannot tell. Haven't changed anything since then. Perhaps some blockage in the fuel line? I ran a few rounds yesterday and the problems hasn't come up again. It is slightly old petrol, so that could be the problem? Next Saturday I will try it again and keep you updated. How does it sound to you? Smooth or rough? I can't actually compare the sound with a factory spec Favorit.
  2. After the last hickup I started the Fact several times in a row. When revving the throttle there's no more stalling. Half an hour ago I decided to take it for a test run, in small steps though. First time and down the driveway, then several meteres up and down the street.It ran good (as far as I can tell). Drove a big round the block, no problems at all I've made a small video of the car on the driveway, idling. Still sounds like a diesel, but hey, it's not as rough as before https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=g8fL8gowEeg
  3. I will check that. When reassembling the bodies I did check for matching holes, but I might have missed that small one. Funny thing is, the last time I actuated the throttle it did react normal. I'll try it again and take some new pictures/video's of the current behavior. I will change one of the vacuum hoses (1 year old but PVC instead of rubber, but might be stiffened since last year, connected the distributor vacuum unit). The rest is fresh and made of rubber
  4. I did not check it lately, I don't own a strobe light or vacuum gauge.. I don;t see how that does affect the throttle behavior? I did make a video at idle and when I press and release the throttle. https://www.youtube.com/embed/rew7z12Qcx4
  5. The pulldown unit is holding it's vacuum. Also is the distributor vacuum Diaphragm. I just started the Fav again with the air filter off and it idled good. I removed the distributer hose and air filter hose and plugged it with my thumb, both were sucking vacuum. At 1 certain point (don't know whether my thumb was on or off the hose ends) the revvs went up. Even pulling the plug on the idle cutout did not stall the engine. I stopped it by turning off the key I started the Fav again: perfect idle and when revving, no stalling at all, only after pulling the plug on the cutout. Still some sorting out to do for the next days
  6. Since the last post I've been busy moving to a new house with a garage After last time it still ran rough and had massive fuel consumption. I've replaced the enrichment valve and the accelerator diaphragm. They were stiff and punctured and didn't do anything. I've refurbished the gaskets and mounted the assembly it back on. Before running I did a smoke test like the one above. There was only smoke coming out on top of the choke plate pot when the choke plate was slightly open, none around the bottom rubber gasket or somewhere else. After I fired up the engine it ran very smooth, no difference in rpms or erratic idling. When I pulled the plug on the idle shutoff valve it stalled, so I guess I solved the vacuum part. I noticed though that when I press and release the throttle the engine still dies.. Let's see if I can fix that
  7. I just got back from my summer holidays. I started to check all the vacuum parts again and found out the choke pull down was not keeping it's vacuum. When I took it apart: So indeed a big vacuum leak, like you mentioned Ricardo. with regards
  8. Okay, that sounds clear to me. Thanks for explaining. I'll have to check all the vacuum lines including the vacuum operated items again. I do have a spare base gasket, if the current one needs replacing. More work to do!
  9. Actually, when the carb was off, I have replaced the base gasket with a brand new one... That's the current one. The HTleads have been replaced and the timing and valve clearance is correct(ed). I'm still boggled about the carburettor running too rich. A vacuum leak would let more air in, am I right? For the photos I use my personal Flickr account, so I don't think that's gonna be an issue
  10. I've created a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VZBIrH_F-o I did as described above. Removed the airfilter, started the engine and pulled the plug on the cutoff eventually. For some more details of the carburettor I've made some additional photographs pre-start situation
  11. I can try that to make sure it's straight. I already out on a new one, as the old one had no rubber left on the bottom and was dried out.. I did slightly lean on the carburettor to see/hear it makes any changes in revving, but it didn't. I'll try to make a video tomorrow, so you can hear the engine
  12. The car ran like this when I bought it last April. why did I buy it? It's one of the last 10-15 remaining and it was offered too close to my home to ignore it. I've checked the base and hoses (replaced with new ones) with brake cleaner. There was no slightest change in revs. I presume an airleak would cause it to run lean rather than rich?
  13. Hi, I own a 1989 Skoda Favorit 1.3 with a Pierburg 2e3, probably the oldest still known to exist in Holland. The carburettor is being a pain in the you know where/what since the beginning. I can not seem to pin down the problem Issues: - When I start the car, it immediately starts to gallop (going up and down in revs.). - Driving away:When I press the accelerator paddle lightly, the car bucks and disagrees with me. As soon as the I press down the pedal to full, it goes like the Flash. When I have to slow down (release throttle paddle) in approach of a traffic light or in slow traffic it starts bucking again in low revs. Recently it died with the clutch pressed down, because it was that low on revs. I had to adjust the idle screw to keep it running, although it's still rough - It runs very rich in idle, even with the mixture screw set low Checked/Replaced - Vacuum leaks around the mounting flange (none) - replaced faulty vacuum hoses, mounting flange, distributor cap and rotor, HT leads, spark plugs, air filter (some parts were worn). - The timing is correct (checked with stroboscope) - The valve play is correct. - Choke works like a charm, - vacuum operated actuators retain vacuum - part load enrichment valve is operating free Does anyone recognize these symptoms? Or did i miss something or is it i the electrical part?? Could there be an internal blockage that causes the overfuelling/bucking in idle?? I'd appreciate your thoughts with regards, Paul, Holland
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