UdayP

Thank you Ryan, I think I read your post on the forum earlier today that you managed to get 4 cables through. I'm going to remove the battery tray as I think it's in the way. I appreciate your quick response on this!

Hello community, it's been a while since I have done any work on my car and also coincidentally since I posted on this forum so please don't hold it against me! I decided to install a subwoofer with wiring that was provided by my cousin who recently removed it from his car but all is in working order. I managed to run the stereo wires from the loom at the back of my bolero unit along with the power on wire. I then tried to run the power cable from the front battery to the back but I got stuck as I couldn't see any obvious point through the firewall. I had a look online at the golf mk6 models and there was a suggestion the I could remove the battery shelf and pass it through the factory loom entry and it should come out behind the glove box. I stopped at this point as I had plans for the the rest of the day but before I carry on next weekend I just wanted to check if that approach was correct. Any handy tips would also be appreciated.

Actually, since my drain lever didn't align at the top when tightened, we ripped off the fibre washer and replaced it with 2 copper crush washers so the lever was at the top.

Would you mind letting us know where you sourced the kit from please? Also if there were any considerations regarding the part numbers for specific year of vehicle etc?

I haven't noticed any oil buildup on my DV. It is a little dirty but not really oily. I replaced the diaphragm one for the upgraded piston design about a year and a half ago. Regarding the sump, I replaced the sump nut with a fumoto quick drain valve. This is to stop replacing the o ring or sump nut and avoiding damaging the sump threads. I have not had a leak since fitting this and have had 3 oil changes in that time. If the quick drain valve doesn't need to come out, you could seal the threads with a paste. I didn't do this, but I don't think it would hurt.

Then alternator may not be functioning as intended and not supplying enough electrical power resulting in rough idle. You can get this tested at a local mechanics.

Mine has been in for 6 years. Still pink, still has effective cooling properties. No sign of gunk or corrosion in the liquid. If you have corrosion, you should be aware of the water pump failing. I know on the 2.0TSI the water pump was placed parallel to the engine under the intake manifold and these have been known to fail as the propeller corrodes. I'm not sure what the setup is on the Diesels or 1.8TSI, but should be checked if your coolant is a colour other than pink. Obviously if it has oil that's another issue.

Have you checked if its the alternator?

Fixed service can indeed use 502 spec oil. Quantum Platinum 5w40 is the one you need. I used this on my Petrol VRS just 3 weeks ago. - 4.6L of Oil needed. Currently £16.49 Free delivery - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-5-LITRE-QUANTUM-PLATINUM-ENGINE-OIL-5W-40-ZGB115QLB00521-/222131345966?hash=item33b80f5a2e:g:kRAAAOSw5VFWFlGu The old oil in my car was still perfectly fine as it had only done 3k miles over 6 months - I do it every 6 months regardless.

If its not leaking from the rear window washer, it is most likely water coming from the rubber boot strip. There are holes are the top which allow water and air to escape. The only problem is at the bottom the same holes appear inwards to the boot which leads to water build up inside the boot. There have been a number of owners including myself who have cut small holes in the bottom of the strip to let water outwards. I had an issue with the windows not clearing or having excessing damp buildup on the windscreen on wet days which I thought was to do with the pollen filter and the AC. It turned out I had a water in the rear as you do. You can be careful and do the same and see if that helps. I cut two holes at the bottom of the rear weather strip and now no more misty windscreen!

If you are referring to my post in the beginning, I will get some more pictures later this weekend to help make that judgement. Does top coat lacquer usually turn white if scuffed?

Yeah I was looking at the paints4u kit. They seem to have morr work invloved but kit you everything you need. I'll be using them for the wealth of road rash on the front at some point. Ok I'll take your advice and spread the paint and polish it off.

I have a feeling you may need to replace the intake manifold assembly.

Its definitely not down to metal, its not very deep either, I have had a feel and seems like the black paint layer is just thin. I was also thinking to just mix the paint and lacquer together but I wasn't entirely sure. I guess I could use a soft spreader to put the paint in as well.

It seems that one of the local drivers has left this wonderful scratch on my passenger door. It doesn't look massively deep but it has obviously gone down to the primer. I was thinking to do the following: Clean area with IPA. Carefully apply primer in deeper scratches Carefully apply matched paint on all scratches Apply lacquer on all scratches Rub down slightly with 3000grit wet paper Use a medium polish over the area Use a fine polish over the area Use a sealant Wax If the above sounds wrong or incomplete, please shout.

There is a code in your service booklet at the front which determines which brake disc size you have. There is also sticker in your boot wheel area. Use this code to match it on ECP.

Which valves are you referring to? the flaps inside the intake manifold? or the Diverter Valve (Dump Valve)?

How clean were the flaps when you opened the intake manifold? I believe there have been issues reported about the condition and function of these flaps.

Did you remove the green from the original?

Do you know if yours was the 255mm disc at the rear?

The last step would be to replace the ECU. I remember I had a similar problem on my old mk4 1.4 golf. It gave me tons of trouble. I couldnt root cause it, it would have low idles and sometimes cut out. I changed almost every sensor, cleaned everything up to the fuel injectors, replaced the TB and PCV. One issue it had was oil used to leak past the piston rings and it would go through a lot of oil in that case. I was cleaning the PCV and TB every 6 months. In the end nothing would cure it, sometimes a long drive on the motorway would help its idling. This led me to believe that there was either blockage somewhere in the system that was cleared on long drives. It also had no air mass sensor. The ECU was fine since it never had any other issues. Maybe you could replace your Air Mass Sensor too?

My Mistake, no EGR clean in that case. Try changing the diverter valve for a while and see if that helps. Other than the vacuum hoses, TB, PCV, DV im not sure what else. Are you able to remove and clean the intake manifold? Other than all of the above, I am really not sure.

Have you also changed the diverter valve? Cleaned the EGR valve? I think you might need a new throttle body. Do you have a friend or someone you can swap throttle body's with?

Urghh! Right, guess its time to get the spline tool!

Hi, I have had trouble removing the rear carrier M14 spline bolts but I didn't actually try to remove the disc from the hub. Has anyone had success removing a 272mm disc from the rear without removing the carrier? Thats on a VRS FL. Does it just about slide through or will it get stuck?