Ardle

That doesn't sound good, then again might be an O ring/ rubber washer,. hope it's a cheap fix 🤞

Sorry lads I just want to clarify,that because of previous issues with 'injectors' in the past and doing a lot of research and finding out that it's more often than not the actual wiring that's the problem...I always advice checking/testing the injector loom before replacing the actual EXPENSIVE injector.. yes in previous years the injectors were located in under the rocker head and would get very hot and cold oily etc which led to brittleness and cracking of plastic connector housing which led to issues and faults... I suppose I'm just paranoid when it comes to this fault. So get the wiring checked first just to be sure. Thank You 😉

Injector wire, connectors and complete loom should always be the first things to be tested when an injector fault appears.. happened me twice on previous cars,.the only time I actually needed an injector replaced was on a 2001 vw passat with 470000mls on it. Some miles eyyyy 😎

You should see the injector connectors sitting proud on top of your engine with clip connectors that can be taken off/disconnected and inspected..... If you do a Google search for images,. I would definitely do that first of all. Good Luck

Please check and clean injector loom before replacing injector,.it is and can be an issue and is much cheaper than an injector, which should last the life of your car!? Unplug all connections and clean/spray with contact/switch cleaner(NOT WD40 or the likes)seat the connectors back in nice and tight...clear the code and see how you go..

Fronts.. no need to remove carrier, just pull caliper up out of the way 👌

Sorry Rob,.it seems we hijacked your thread for a bit of craíc. I do apologise. I personally will try my best not to be so disrespectful in future 😊 it's just I'm in my 40s still living at home with my Mum and I get bored and silly sometimes. Look I'm trying my best to move forward in life but it's tough. I've been saving hard the last couple of years and I hope soon I'll enough money to put my Mother in a good carers home 🤣🤣

I don't care anymore, I'm over it, fog lights are so gay🤣🤣

I'm only 699km away,. So there 🤓

This is what your up against.. comedians comedians everywhere 😂

Surely the brake switch is at the far end of your brake pedal under the dash!? It activates when you push the brake pedal, the other side of the pedal comes away from the switch....

Yes I second that,. I've tried numerous H7s night breakers, LEDs, LEDs with inbuilt cooling fan etc and after years of not being overly impressed in 2 cars (Vw Passat also)I then installed after market hid kit 4500k with canbus error ballast,. Very impressed and badly needed as I do lots of night driving.. now most light is shíte on wet roads and in rainy conditions,so wasting your time drawing comparisons unless it's dry road conditions.

Well that's what I discovered,. maybe for side impact not sure!?

Just be aware guys I had similar issue tho it was passenger side,. got the usual advice check under passenger seat wiggle connectors under carpet cut out to make sure they're seated properly,so did all that and nothing.. it's great advice if that's the problem and it works,.but it didn't for me,.my issue was the wiring from the side bulkhead coming into the passenger door, I unclipped the rubber bellows/trunking and give the wiring a good eyeball,.low and behold one wire was fraid and seperated,.so joined it back together and deleted the fault..job done.. Worth giving it a look if all else fails. Good Luck.

Made this video last year,. maybe this will help... VID_20181218_142404_672x378.mp4

So hopefully this is all you need, cheap easy fix, under the glove compartment in the passenger footwell.. just give us a little more info.. like if it's just the blower control and only the highest blow power works then nearly 100% sure this is your issue. Keep us updated.

So will I just bend a wee hose connected to Mr Muscle can through that sensor hole in my pic towards the turbo?

So anyway,.I went ahead and tapped the spanner with a rubber mallet and after a few goes the nut released,.not really much effort at-all at-all... So I removed the sensor, cleaned that with MAF cleaner(contact/switch cleaner would do)... Then went ahead and unloaded a whole can of dpf cleaner spray at intervals into the DPF.. after the can was empty I secured the sensor back in the hole and let the car idle for 10min's, then I took it for a good run up the motorway at a steady speed(120k)for about 30 min's... Lots of smoke initially before I hit the motorway,.then didn't notice much after that. I will update everyone after this weekend as I'll be driving a lot of urban all weekend.... My issue was the car was regenerating much to often for my liking,.the DPF light would come on on about 1 in 4 of these regens,.but would never stay on long... Anyway it was a bit of a concern..

Anyone used one of these numerous dpf cleaning sprays? Did it make a difference, did you have trouble removing the pressure sensor.. I was about to give it a go but I felt I was putting to much pressure on the nut that holds the sensor in place,.I didn't want to cause damage. Has anybody any experience on this?

As 'kinda' said above it also resets service due warning buzzer indicator.

I would like to think it was just a problem with the gear linkage/cable.. I don't want to get your hopes up but that will be a much less costly job than the actual gear box. Good luck, keep us informed.

I went for 5000K.. after a lot of research, I didn't want any hint of blue(above 5000K)or any warmness (below 5000K)... So 5000K seems to give PURE white light, beautiful on a dry road.. that's another thing never test your lights on a wet rd or in the rain, the rain, wet etc seem to act like tiny reflectors or mirrors and dont do headlights any justice or favours at-all..

Yes totally agree, great car.. and to be honest the lights are not that bad.. I had a Passat before this and they were even worse. I could live with good halogens in my Octavia if I didn't do so much night driving, like the night breakers are good and led with built in cooling fan are also good.. but after years of trial and error I just DO NOT think you can beat Hid Xenon.. it was the same in the old Passat but I had to remove my Xenons because of interference to my radio equipment especially the 2 way radio communication system that I need for my job.

As I do an awful lot of night driving, I was having lots of issues with my bulbs, chopping changing, night breakers, led with cooling fan etc etc.... So I just went with Hid xenon s.. Love them and my eyes feel the difference also. This is a great kit with little or no interference to any audio or electrics.. it's an easy install using your original h7 clips or buy pre cut clips. The ballast fits perfectly to the smooth rear side of your lamp housing as in the pic below, just use 3M double sided tape, no need to screw.