Rorytavia

I’m did this the other day (window cable had snapped). had to get some wide head flanged rivets from screwfix. Just looked 4.8x12mm. These were the largest head ones I could find without going to a dealer, as green machine said, the holes are very big for the oem rivets, so I did have to do some diy hole drilling 👍🏻👍🏻

The poster of the video said changing door seal seemed to fix it in the YouTube comments?

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I had that last year on my CR diesel VRS. shortly after DPF light came on and then limp mode. turns out it was a turbo actuator valve (or something similar, it’s quite common according to the garage) had broken, fixed, good as new. About £175 plus fitting I think. Much cheaper than a new dpf

Hi harlequinn, if you don’t mind me asking where did you get the engine cover/battery/fuse box covers from? they look spot on cheers Rory

If you want them to fit relatively easily then you would want the right model. but as wiilydog said you would want pre facelift mk2 items, most sites would list the vehicles the bits are suitable for, or failing that pop a post on here I’m sure somebody has at least one of every Skoda item you can buy so would know more than me

Hi mate, you our can get plenty of fairly easy to fit bits and bobs from ebay/various body mod websites. Ive got a maxton design front splitter (https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body-kits/skoda/skoda-octavia) they have lots on there. most would be unpainted so you would need to get them sprayed and fitted by a body shop or someone competent with some paint as a vw group car the alloy wheel fitment is very common so you would have a lot of choice on those too all the best Rory

@Paulbrown morning mate, your engine bay looks Could I ask where you got your air filter silicone pipes from, been looking and I can’t find any. Probs just me being a bit of a mong cheers rory

Hi. Zipper that's great. Thank you

Hi zipper That sounds like exactly like my problem. Where abouts is the pressure converter and can it be replaced without any vcds coding as I don't have access to that? All the best Rory

I've put st coilovers on two months ago and the ride is a good as it was before the drivers side shocks decided to lunch themselves. Can't fault them

I had this exact problem up until last weekend when I fitted new rear dampers. When I took them off the drivers side rear was completely broken and did not damp at all lol.

Cheers everyone, looks like a trip to internet is in order for some new shocks much appreciated help everyone Thanks

Cheers everyone To the best of my knowledge they haven't been changed so there'd have done 80k miles so I'm guessing they are buggered. I've looked at the Koni srt-r shortened shocks as they are designed for the h&r lowering springs. Are the b8's also shortened or are they ok to use. I will check the bump stops and see if that is the problem Ta

Hi everyone I've had h&r lowering springs fitted to my tdi vrs and ever since it has suffered from extreme boucyness when it is traveling over uneven roads. I have settled it down slightly with a bag of cement in the rear wheel well but that isn't an ideal solution haha if it makes any difference I have a whiteline rarb fitted too Just wondering if anyone has any ideas, as I'm thinking of getting some vogtland coilovers from dpm performance (does anyone know if Damian is still active on the forums he always seems knowledgeable and keen to fix up a deal if possible) All the best Rory