dawpooldad

Well thanks fellas, It seems to me, from all the very knowledgeable and experienced replies, that the standard steel wheel (6.5x16 with a 205/55 tyre) will be OK. All I've got to do is find one with the kit and sooner rather than later!! Thanks again dawpooldad

Hi, I have a 2013 Octavia 1.2 Tsi hatchback that doesn't have a spare wheel, relying on the inflation kit. If I buy a spare wheel kit, can I have a full size wheel or does it have to be a space saver. I picked up somewhere that the full size spare won't fit in the wheel well. If anyone can help I'd be grateful. Thanks dawpooldad

Hi guys Thanks for all the info. It makes sense. I forgot to say that I use the Mersey tunnels frequently and in all other cars you have to switch your lights on just to see what speed you're doing! So, in a sense, the car is forcing me to put the lights on because of the ambient conditions. I thought it was a fault! I think that I'll get it changed when it goes in for service. Thanks again Dawpooldad

It's a Mk3 Octavia S hatchback. Dawpooldad

Hi, I have recently acquired a '63 plate 1.2Tsi Octy and it's great! However, I'm a little puzzled by the dashboard lights. In normal lighting conditions, the dash is visible but when I drive through darker areas, say through wooded areas or even if the sun goes behind clouds then the dash darkens and I can only see the the needles on the dials. Now I've tried altering the display in the setup menu but I think I'm missing something. If someone can help, I'd be grateful. Best Rgds Dawpooldad

Ok fluff, thanks for that Rgds Dawpooldad

Hi, Where is the diagnostic port location on the Octy III ? Thanks in anticipation dawpooldad

Hi Guys, Thanks for the help. The bulb holder is behind the rubber cap (which is fun and games itself if you drop it down between the wing and the liner!) and there is a short "tube" that it fits in. It's difficult to get my fingers inside the tube to turn the holder. It's easier on the passenger side than on the drivers side but the holder still wont come out. Do you have to twist the holder like a bayonet bulb to get it out or is it just a straight push in fit? I did try yanking on the wiring, but I chickened out 'cos I don't want to make things worse! I might try the trim removal picks as suggested. You can't have enough tools can you? Rgds dawpooldad

Hi, I'm trying to change the bulb in the front head light unit and I'm having difficulty getting the bulb holder out. Is there any special way of getting it out or is there a special tool required? There's not much room to get your hand in. If anyone knows or can help I'd be grateful Rgds Dawpooldad

Hi, have now checked the discs with aforementioned DTi gauge and I'm very puzzled. Both discs check out at less than 0.05mm variation which is about 2 thou in english money? I checked the discs on both sides and at various positions in the swept area and the 0.05 reading was taken about half an inch in from the disc edge on the near side (which was the largest variation I could find!) I was expecting that I would get wildly varying readings suggesting that yet another set of pads and discs was required, in the main the gauge hardly moved at all. I don't think that the "pulsation" lies with the discs and pads. I have also tried doing some of the high speed brake applications as previously suggested but that hasn't worked either. So, I think that Ill have to have the suspension bushes checked out. I'm due a service shortly so I'll have to get the main dealer to check it out and steel myself for the outcome. It's a pity that Unit 18 are so far away!! Best Regards Dawpooldad

Storm Blue 2, Hi where , what and why are console bushes? You've hit a nerve here as I do sometimes here a clunk when turning and going over some minor bumps! Did this cure the problem? Rgds dawpooldad

Hi guys all the previous posts are like deja vu to me 'cos I too am suffering a similar problem to storm blue 2 although I would call it pulsation rather than shudder!. I've had 3, yes 3 new sets of pads and discs and when new, the problem goes away only to return a few months later. Each time they've been done the garage, be it the main dealer or Kwik fit and even myself, are convinced that it's either me (driving style) or faulty components. I've never had this problem on any other car that I've owned so I've discounted my driving style (Captain slow if you must know!) So, I'm awaiting the arrival of a DTi gauge set up so that I can check the run out (if their is any!) and try to pin down the source of the problem. Now, anybody know the what the maximum run out is allowed on the discs in metric? Grateful for any help Rgds dawpooldad

Hi guys thanks for the replies. In answer to them, under the circumstances, being on holiday dictated Kwikfit as they did the testing and replaced the parts and cured the problem within 4 hours. I would have preferred to have been at home, with access to my regular parts factor, workshop, tools, dial gauge and possibly a lathe, but with my family on board its a fait accompli and a cost of £200 that I have to swallow! I was tempted to to think about the sticky caliper and as I said the mechanics said everything else looked and checked out ok. The car is a family estate and has been owned virtually from new and never been raced or rallied, well certainly not by me (can't vouch for the wife though!!!) It doesn't have Esp and is not thrown around corners or indeed the victim of heavy braking. I don't think that the theory of keeping you foot on the brake after braking applies to my driving style but it is certainly something for me to think about. But remember that this is the second set of discs and pads that have gone wonky! Oh, and one last thing, Kwikfit gave me the old parts back, bagged and boxed, for me to take back! Rgds Dawpooldad

Hi I wonder if anyone can help with my recent probs with my front discs and pads. Today I had the front discs and pads replaced for the 3rd, yes 3rd time in about 12/15 months on my Fabia II 1.4 TDi combi. The original discs/pads were replaced due to wear at about 55k and I used my local factor to supply the parts (Pagid). Then at the beginning of this year(Jan) I had to remove them because of juddering from the front when braking. Good enough, the local factor took 'em back and replaced them under warranty (with Bosch units). This week at 68k and whilst on holiday, the juddering returned, this time more severe, so, off it went to Kwikfit for their free brake check and they initially said that they couldn't find anything wrong with them although there was some shudder when braking at a speed in excess of 40mph. This was confirmed both by road test and their rolling road equipment. They then checked the rears and they said that apart from a bit of brake dust everything looked OK! They stripped the fronts down and checked them but couldn't honestly say(their words!) that there was anything wrong. So I told them to replace the discs and pads which they did and now the brakes are back to normal. Now, I have to say that this is the first time that I have used K/Fit but there was method in my madness. 1. They do a free no obligation brake check. 2. They were able to do it almost right away (important when you're on holiday!) 3.They're National so that I could go to my local branch if there was where any further problems and 4. You get a 12 month no quibble warranty on discs (I felt I might need it!) and a lifetime replacement of pads! Now, my driving style is more like Captain Slow and I do not live on my brakes. I use the gearbox just like I was trained (like investments, they can go up as well as down!) I asked the Mechanics if there was anything wrong with my fitting of the parts and they said that everything had looked OK to them. They were actually reluctant to change the parts as they looked quite new and unworn. But change them they did and now the the brakes are like new again. So, whats causing the warping of the discs, anyone have any ideas? I'd be grateful for any input. Best Rgds Dawpooldad

Hi Guys I had this happen twice, thanks to my missus grabbing hold of the flap instead of just touching it. I did the above procedure posted by Sharky 09 and to save myself having to do it again, I secured the catch with a small cable tie. I cant remember exactly how I secured it but it can be done! Now all I've got to do is educate Mrs dawpooldad in how to just touch the flap!!!!! Rgds dawpooldad

Hi Guys FS III brakes, are they Teves, VW II, Lucas or ?????? If anyone can clarify, I'd be most grateful. Best Regards dawpooldad

Hi guys, I'm about to do the brakes on my 2009 Fabia Estate 1.4 TDi 80 bhp. I want to do the pads, discs and rear shoes and I'm trying to identify what parts I need beforehand. I've looked at the calipers and they are marked FS3 and the disc dimensions are 256x22mm. I've checked out the PR codes on the build list and the only references to the brakes are 1KM (Drum brakes Rear) and 1AC ( ABS Fitted). Most parts suppliers are showing Pr nos 1LQ,1LR or 1ZG for this car but I can't find any cross reference to my own car. I want to order over the Internet so obviously I want to get the correct items. Can anyone help? Cheers dawpooldad

Hi guys, thanks for the above replies. Judging by what you've said, it appears that it went into limp mode as it hasn't happened again. I think that it reset iteslf after restarting the engine and I can't get it to do it again. I can hear a faint whistle on acceleration, so I think that if it happens again I will get the codes read, to try and pin it down before it gets any worse. Thanks again for the help. Rgds Dawpooldad

Hi guys, can anybody out there tell me how I can (simply!) check if my turbo is working properly. This last weekend, I was in North Wales and on one journey I really struggled up some hills, even having to go down into second to get up the hills :S . It's as if the turbo switched off? and the umph was missing. Its been ok since, but I was unerved by the apparent loss of power. Thanks in anticipation. Dawpooldad

Hi, a saga of potentially serious faults with a simple solution! Rear Wiper motor not operating! Seized gearbox on motor caused by constant water ingress, due to by stem seal breaking down and leaking. Released seized crank mechanism and fitted an improvised seal. Rebuilt and cleaned with fresh grease and everything was tickety boo until six months later when:- Front Windscreen wipers started operating on their own! This happened on a long journey on a hot day and fearful of a blown fuse or a burnt out motor, I was using the screenwash fit to bust. With some respite, for about ten minutes, each time the engine was switched off and with regular fill ups, I made it home. Then, after leaving the car overnight, it was OK. Two days later, wifelet reports in an almost tearful 'phone call that "It's started again!!!!" Checking through the forum did not immediatley cough up an answer, so I started to check connections, switches, fuses etc. During this investigation, the rear wiper operated itself once, by itself and it was almost like, did I see that or was I imagining it! So, off came the rear wiper motor again. When stripped down this time, the motor, gearbox and circuitry were soaked again. The improvised seal had failed and water poured out of the unit! The interesting thing was, when I pulled the connector to the rear unit, the front wipers stopped! Obviously, some kind of short on the connector and/or the CAN bus. So a new unit was ordered from Bickerton and fitted. Octavia was back to normal and wifelet was happy once again. Until:- A few months later, Wifey was bringing me home from a lads curry night, when a speeding pillock in a Sirroco took the drivers door mirror off. It had completely disintegrated! (it's a good job he didn't stop, as I tanked up enough to deal with him!). So, Ebay consulted, new primered unit ordered and whilst waiting for it, I gave the car a thorough wash, wax and polish. Then:- Central locking goes crazy, not unlocking, locking itself, not working on the fob etc. Again, I turned to the forum and found that water ingress into the drivers door and the convenience unit was the most likely cause. What a pillock! with the mirror missing there was a direct channel for water down through the hinge where the cables go! So I waited until the new mirrror arrived, was painted and ready to go on. When fitting the mirror, I removed the door card and checked the connections to the convenience unit, the door locks, etc and found that they were all completely dry! Where do I go now, was water ingress a red herring? Suffice to say, after fitting the mirror, things went OK and central locking went back to normal. For a few days anyway and then, yes, another call from Mrs dawpooldad (who was rapidly losing patience with said Octy) saying that the central locking had "gone mad" again. Cue, another immediate removal of the door card to double check for watery connections, but everything was bone dry. Whilst doing this job, the Mrs breezed past, on her way to other car, to resume previously aborted shopping mission, with a "by the way, the back squirty thingy isn't working!" Eureka!, I thought, and made a beeline for the rear hatch cover. On removal, everthing was bone dry, but there was a familiar smell of screenwash in the boot. So, another perusal on the forum revealed that there was a pipe join behind the l/hand side trim in the boot. The trim was duly removed and yes! the pipe joint had split apart and was pouring a mix of alcohol and water all over the connectors in that area. This was probably due to icing up during the recent cold spell. So, everthing was dried off with kitchen roll and the gentle application of a hair dryer and reconnected. Also, I fitted a waterproof cable shroud over the pipe, so that if the pipe comes apart again, the offending water is directed away from the connections. Two weeks later with no further electrical funnies, Mrs d has returned to her preffered Octavia and all is forgiven. In summary, the common culprit was the rear screenwash in one form or another. I hope that this will be of assistance to any other Octavia owner experiencing similar problems. Rgds dawpooldad

Hi, according to the Haynes manual, the nominal voltage for all systems is 12v. So unless it is dropped down through any of the control circuits, I would suggest that 12v is O.K. Rgds Dawpooldad.

Hi, just to let you all know, I've sussed the problem. As stated in the last post, I traced the washer pipe back from the rear hatch and pulled out the trim from l/h side of the boot. There I found that the washer pipe joint had come adrift, probably due to freezing during the cold weather. The joint is positioned right over some loom connector units (presumably the boot lock and lighting) and was pouring water directly onto them. The tell tale, was remnants of screen wash in the wheel well in the boot. The connectors had a trace of water, so I dried them out with kitchen roll, plus a gentle application of a hairdryer and reconnected. I also fitted a cable shroud to the pipe so that water is directed away from the connectors should the pipe part company again. So ultimately, it was water ingress, but nothing to do with the broken mirror and the drivers door, as originally thought. It was trawling through the forums that provided enough clues to suss the fault. My thanks to rwbaldwin and Nen O Neill for their help. Rgds dawpooldad

Hi, sods law, wifey reports that since yesterday afternoon, no problems!! I went and checked and it was OK. So back to square one. I have noticed that the rear washer isn't working, but the pump operates. I think on Saturday, I going to check the tube from the front to back and in the rear door, although there isn't any water coming out of the door, so I don't think that the pipe has come off there. Rgds dawpooldad

Hi, something that I've not checked. Will try tomorrow as I'm in work on nights and the Octavia is at home. Will it have any significance if it does work on the inside buttons? Rgds Dawpooldad

Hi, yes, thanks to the forum, this was one of the things I checked. Thanks Dawpooldad