neewtrom

yes, you're right. I'm sry, I was thinking of the MAF sensor, and the small filliament in it might get affected by oil residues from sport filters etc. I notice I happen to mix the acronyms in english car language a bit:P Also, the manufacturer (in our case Skoda) have calculated the required dimensions for the air filter to the volume of the engine, and a standard air filter cleans the air better, and have pretty much no resistance in it as long as its not completely clogged.

if you are thinking of a sport air filter, that fit in the original filter housing, you might aswell save yourself the cost of a sports filter and get a new ordinary filter. there is no measurable increase in power, this has been tested time, and time again, without significant results. Also, a sports filter, very often is a oiled filter, which might stick to the "fly-by-wire" which measures the amount of air going into the engine, and thus might give your car a loss in performance over time, as it might affect air/fuel mixture because the signal from the fly-by-wire unit is incorrect. I can't guarrantee that this is applicable to the vrs, but I reckon it got a FBW just as most other cars of this era. and standard air filters are usually just as good as sports filters. the only minor difference might be engine noise, a sport filter is louder... but not much.

Had a chance to disassemble the unit today, with nerves on edge, afraid to ruin it beyond repair. I't was fairly easy though, and I managed to take it apart and put it back together again without any damage done to it. I noticed that it had been apart before while I was disassembling, and the odometer circuits had been tampered with, there was some solder on there (see picture in link) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154207536321490&set=a.10154207536256490.1073741826.531861489&type=3&theater It seems someone have attempted to repair this before, although with minimal success... but now I know how to take this apart, and I know there are some bad or possibly fried circuits, so thats kind of good. I tried to clean it a little, but it wasn't exactly dirty either, only had some lenswipes. I also went to the dealership today, and they couldn't even point me towards a shop that could repair this, so thats nice. allways nice to have to deal with "Møller" they did ask me, however, if I wouldn't rather get a new instrument cluster, for the fine sum of aproxx 450-500£ which is just about 1/2-1/3 of the car's value:P Ah well, I'll just have to live with it for now:) also, need to calibrate my rev counter and speedometer, as I might have been a bit quick to remove and put em back on... idle is now about 500 :P speed seems decentish.. will have to see tomorrow when I go to work.

yes, that is what I think aswell, but if it's internally in the display or connections, i don't know. was hoping this was a common problem, but since I don't find any guides on fixing this specificly, I take it that it might not be that usual.

Hi guys, I'm entirely new here on the forum, but I have read a few threads, as I search for clues as of to why my odometer shows entirely wrong numbers. as if some bars on the little lcd display are constant. meaning my car shows a "mirrored 6"-82 instead of, what I think, should be 192k's. I have come to understand that the instrument clusters on these cars are a bit less than reliable. could it be, as with the dial problems, that there are broken solders on some pins on the chip that runs the display? or might it be the display itself being faulty? I see garethj71 mentions the odometer, but I'm not entirely sure what he means by "twisting the metal tabs" I found this simple guide on how to possibly correct a lcd display, displaying the wrong things, but I'm not sure if it applies to this one, as I don't know if it got a ribbon cable or whatever its called. http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-a-Malfunctioning-LCD/ http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u563/StaalSchmitze/20151020_023205_zpstmg6jsxd.jpg hope you can see the pic.