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Turboman

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    Sweden, Dalarna

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    Skoda at work, Volvo at home

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  1. Yesterday I picked up my workmate for the next 5 years, an Octavia Scout, 2.0 TDI with DSG gearbox, Premiumpackage, Tow and Webasto package, Lane assistant, Drive Mode selection, KESSY and Alarm, Heated windscreen, Smartgate and Electric drivers seat with memory. Driven about 250 km so far (155 miles), only thing not working is the memory function on the seat, and the dealer has messed up the KESSY a little when installing an alcolock, otherwise it´s a huge step up from the 2003 Subaru Forester I have been driving before.
  2. Hi ! I will get a new car at work, a Skoda Octavia Scout, that is equipped with the Amundsen Infotainment/GPS system, in the car I use today I have a Garmin GPS that is loaded with a file containing POI:s related to what I work with (I work at an Electric Utility company). I have been thinking if it is possible to use the Amundsen GPS instead of having to mount the Garmin unit in the new car (there are already two pieces of equipment that I have to find a good place for, a Alcolock unit and a Tetra Radio unit, so if I can skip he extra GPS it would clean up the dash a little. The only problem I can think of is if the Amundsen has a limit on how many POI:s you can store in it, the total amount that we have in the Garmin unit is about 60 000, and when I have tried to convert a file containing all the POI:s with the tool that Skoda has online, it crashes the Webpage, but when I try with a smaller file (containing about 2 500 POI:s), it works, I think that the people at my company that handles the GIS system (GIS = Geographical Information System), can supply me with the contents of the file divided into smaller chunks, so that problem might be fixable, but the question is still if the Amundsen has some sort of limit regarding the number of POI:s? Another question is if there is some sort of tool to create the POI files needed for the Amundsen GPS that I can run offline? Best regards Mats
  3. Hi! In about a month I will be getting a new car at my workplace, a Skoda Octavia Scout, and this car is equipped with the Amundsen Navigator, since we have quite a few POI:s regarding what we work with in a separate Garmin GPS today, I was thinking of putting these POI:s in the Amundsen GPS instead, so that I can skip the extra Garmin GPS. My question now is about how many POI:s that can be stored in the Amundsen GPS?, the total amount of POI:s that I would like to store is around 50 000, so it´s quite a lot of them, I tried to convert a GPX file with the Skoda online tool for creating POI files for the unit, but the tool crashed. I have contacted the people at work that creates the .GPI files that we use today, to see if the can split the file in smaller portions, that way the largest file would contain about 33 000 POI:s, and the other ones would be split up in a way that they will all be rather small (a maximum of maybe 2 000 to 3 000 POI:s in each file). Best Regards Mats
  4. Hi ! Anyone know of a dealer on eBay or similar that carries this piece of hose ? it´s under the manifold, just behind the dipstick, it´s kind of a short one, total length about 3 inches Best regards, Mats
  5. Have searched for vacuum leaks today, didn't find any, sprayed ether all around the engine, not even the tiniest indication of a leak anywhere. Took out the TB that was in the car, took it apart, looked as good as new inside, same measurements on the Idle control pot (G88) as with the other TB, did a little clean up around the damper, maybe just maybe I can notice a little improvement in idling, I'm not sure. Will leave it as it is for now and drive the car and see how it behaves. Thanks for all the input ! /Mats
  6. Thanks to dohnjoe I got a tip about how to fix the images without having to downsize them, here is the links: This is the F60 switch This is the inside of the TB, to the lower right is the V60 idle motor The outside of the TB To the left is the Idle control pot (G88) and to the right is the Throttle position pot (G69) /Mats
  7. Got the original TB to day (it was swapped about a month ago), so I took the cover off it, and got an answer to why the idle control pot didn´t give any variation in resistance or signal, the G88 pot (idle speed regulation) isn´t controlled by the throttle cable, it´s controlled by the idle control motor!, the throttle cable works only on the G69 pot (throttle position) and the F60 idle switch. Measured with the cover off and turning the idle control mechanism by hand, the G88 pot also seems to produce normal values. And as I come to think of it, the fault code 00516, closed idle switch, is bound to be set as the switch has closed as it´s normal position when the engine is at idle, so that code doesn´t really tell anything, as long as it isn´t linked to the G69 pot value too (like an "and" function, "closed F60" AND "G69 indicating throttle" equals a set fault code), but I don´t know if the ECU is that intelligent. So it seems that I have two TB:s that produce the same values, so the TB is probably not at fault. I really don´t know what could be wrong now, maybe the ECU ?, but that would produce a bunch of fault codes I imagine, anyone who has an idea is very welcome to share it. Anyone that knows how to attach an image to a post by the way?, I took some photos of the inside of the TB if someone is interested in seeing them. /Mats
  8. Have done a sweep test now, with a analogue multimeter, and the potentiometer for throttle position seems ok, varies between 4 V at no accelerator and 1,2 V at full throttle, the pot for idle control, is at a steady 1,2 V regardless of throttle position, so that seems to be the problem. Will swap the TB and see what happens. /Mats
  9. The potentiometers are not in series, at least not according to the wiring diagrams, both are supplied via pin 4, and the other end of the potentiometers are connected to ground via pin 7, the output for the throttle position sensor (G69) is on pin 5 and the pot for idle control (G88) is on pin 8. I´ll do a sweep test as dohnjoe suggest, that should tell me a little more about whats going on. /Mats
  10. Hi ! I have a Skoda Felicia 1998, with the AEE engine (1,6 litre, Magneti Marelli injection). The engine doesn´t idle very well, and sometimes stalls completely, and the throttle response isn´t that good either, so I checked over the engine, changed sparkplugs, rotor and cap, they where all quite worn, and things got a little better, but not perfect, so I checked for trouble codes, and there is a code 00516, which is "throttle position switch closed". Did some measuring and the idle motor seems to work ok (V60), and the switch (F60) is closed with engine off, and opens when engine is started, so that seems ok to me, idle motor measures about 6 Ohms between pin 1 and 2 on the TB, and the switch has 0 Ohms between pin 3 and 7, and then changes to infinite when engine is started. Measured the potentiometers in the throttle body too, and the one that is telling the ECU how to run the idle motor (G88) has some (at least in my eyes) strange values, with the throttle untouched it has 690 Ohms, and with the throttle wide open 720 Ohms, measured between pin 4 and 8 on the TB, that is on a potentiometer that seems to have a total range of 1800 Ohms at least (got the total value by measuring between pin 4 and 8, and 7 and 8, and adding those values to each other). The potentiometer that tells the ECU the throttle position (G69) has a value of 670 Ohms with throttle untouched and 1300 Ohms with the throttle wide open, measured between pin 4 and 5 on the TB, that on a potentiometer that seems to have a total value of 2000 Ohms. The throttle body is the one with an 8 pin contact where the pins are in two rows, part number 030133064D If someone has the values that these potentiometers should have when they are ok I would be very happy if that person could share them Best regards and thanks in advance Mats
  11. Some photos taken during the operation. Here's where the relay is located, it normally sits in the white socket. A picture of the relay, with it's cover removed And last, a picture of the bad soldering, it's the fourth from the left at the top of the circuit board, I resolderd all the ones in the top row just to be sure.
  12. It's working again ! The J277 relay is a mix of electronics and standard relay, it contains same electronics, and two relays, I'm guessing one for the dipped headlights, and one for parking lights. The fault was a bad solder on the circuit board of the relay, after fixing that, it works great again.
  13. Well, one could switch it on manually, but that is hard to remember, especially since there has been automatic DRL on cars in Sweden since the late 70:s. I will try to locate J277, pin 6 is a trigger too I think, comes from the alternator, has 12 V on it when the alternator kicks in. J277 is probably a solid state of some kind, or a standard relay with some electronics attached to it, I'll get back on that, it could be so that it's a solid state to make it easier to separate the three different outputs (left and right parking lamps, and the output for the dipped headlights).
  14. I've got Elsawin somewhere, didn't realise that it contained wiring, I'll try installing it. The diagrams have the same layout as those for VW and Audi I guess, they are not that easiest to follow, but I use to print them and put them together side by side. /Mats
  15. Well, doing so in Sweden means that some guy in a multicoloured car will flash some blue and red lights at you, and then write you a ticket that will cost some money.
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