ThomasItis

It's a Czech plate.

That is 100% correct, with abs dummy sensor, without abs working sensor.

100% it's a dummy.

There is a member here from Bulgaria who has done it. But I can't find the topic. Take a look to the Fabia MK2 section.

I've read the post and the topic from the beginning and there were many blanks to the story, ok with that, but why did the engine start having issues 2 weeks after the ''rebuild'' and not immediately after the car was delivered to him? It was working nice when the garage delivered the car. @Bigad85 did the car had issues with oil consumption before it broke down at first place?

To your opinion , since you say that ''job was not done right'' what might be the problem?

The MK1 Rs is definitely one of the easiest cars to play with because of their 1.8 20vt engine. They have been with us for many years, with lot's of modifications done... Stg1, Stg2, Stg3 e.t.c. . First of all it's up to you how much money you want to spend and what is the bhp target. The 5spd gearbox is not the best option for heavily modified engines but it can work quite well with a decent amount of bhp. The only 6spd gear box that can go easily is from the Leon's 1.8T but you have to install everything DMF,clutch, gear selector,starter, e.t.c. .... Any performance filter will work better than the standard one so there is no limit to what filter you can use. I personally prefer the Pipercross C0177 for standard mafcase and the C0187 for S3 maf case.

No unfortunately there aren't left to many Felicia's in Greece, especially carburetor models.Maybe MPi's and that's it. I own my Felicia since 1997, when my father sold the Favorit and bought the Fely. On my 18th birthday the Fely came to my hands and since then despite the fact that me and my father have bought,sold and changed a lot of Skoda's the Felicia is still there under my supervision and ownership.

I lived in Greece and the last year moved to London, back there, there are quite a lot carburetor models. I understand the basics about signal imputs, 5V,12V square e.t.c. so they are strange to me. As soon as I get the cluster to my hands and open it I will send you the photos.

@ Ricardo. Very nice writing. Thank you. I opened my 3 spare tacho's and I found a few differences. First of all is that 2 of them are from carburetor model and the one is from an Mpi model. Probably that is the one I have to work with. So... My next step is to source an HCF4040B IC? Thank you

The first and only time I tried to install the petrol dash to my diesel the only thing that happened was that the engine rpm gauge ''jumped'' a little bit and then died. Then I realized that something went wrong.... Just put the old part back and left as it was. Next step?? Edit: I forgot both times I opened and changed the dash to check for cable 7, but everything else worked fine except rpms.

As always you are very helpful and thank you for that. I have a pre-f/l dash from 1.3 mpi (well a couple of them ) and I am looking to do the mod to my 1.9 D pickup not for cosmetic reasons but I am in search with using different gearboxes and tyres in order to make it a little bit ''traveler'' without messing the towing and loading abilities, so reading rpm's will make my life easier. When you have free time send me a p.m. with the procedure.

Just read this topic. Ricardo why this can't be done with a pre-f/l instrument panel?

How many miles?

That pipe sucks air, so going to the air filter is a little bit difficult. Why don't you use a catch can?

Thank you

What engine is it? Maybe tensioner of timing belt?

What catch can did you use? Any photo?

How did you manage to do that?

+1

New tires?

Thank you for the trip! Perhaps you could hook me up with a trip to your country ! Travel guides say beautiful things (I'm very serious). My answer was only based to the fact that in theory equalizing pressure in to the intake manifold will help mixture. The closer to 11.0 afr (only for racing, not on road) the better the engine will work (produce work: hp-torque)along with an aggressive timing. My thought was that if we use race fuels with high engine compression, high rpms e.t.c. we definitely will need 1 AFR meter instrument to every exhaust pipe (4 in count) in order to see how the cylinders work after the combustion. But since we can't know exactly what happens before the mixture goes in, a pressure equalizer will help a little better.

Whatsapp, Fb messenger, Viber and many other methods. Welcome to the free pic world. Well... Free for everything

Tech1e when you have the time, send me a message with the link because I can't find it. Thanks

Looking good!! Did you use the original bonnet???