Tiap

A quick update. I had the local garage (not VAG) replace the EGR valve. They had it for 2 days before Christmas. The job cost £688 all in (parts, labour and VAT). It has fixed the problem, the car now drives like new. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the replies. I had two of the injectors fail at different times but both when going up the same hill in Devon (Holden Hill on the a38. 70mph up a long and steep hill.) Both times the engine was fine one moment and the undriveable the next. Anyway the last time was a few years ago. Thanks for the advice Steve. I do have vcds and it is easy to reproduce so I will try that. I have no idea about cleaning the EGR so will need to look that up.

My Octavia is sort of misfiring when revs are low, obviously a diesel so not a misfire but it is occasionally stuttering. It feels like it is juddering / pulling back when the engine is not under load. Dropping a gear so the revs are 2k or more then it drives fine again. VCDS is not giving any clues. Do you know what might be causing this?

Should have clarified. The switch is good but the signal from the switch is not reaching the computer. VCDS is not showing a reverse signal from the switch. Anybody have advice on where I can get into the other end of the wiring so that I can test continuity from there back to the switch. If there is a break I can just put in my own wiring and leave the rest of the loom. (Which I think might be better than stripping it down to find and repair the break) thanks, Mike

Good idea. Have just tried that. The switch its good.

Hi all. I'm stumped and looking for advice please. My reversing switch output is not registering and connecting across the switch connector terminals also gives no reverse 'on' signal. I've removed the short heat shield and the wires look intact. The yellow and black lead is sending 12v to the switch. I'm thinking that the next place to test is the other end of those wires but they go into a big wrap which seems to go through the bulkhead. Can somebody with a wiring diagram or better knowledge than me please advise where I should test to get the other end of those wires. Thanks Mike

OK, cheers. Will test it over the next couple of days and check in to let you know how it goes. Thanks

Ah, OK. Thanks for letting me know. That explains why I can't see anything in VCDS. Will get in there with the voltmeter then. Thanks Wino. That also gives me somethign to work with. Do you know - if the window motor is duff, would that stop the central locking and mirror adjustment from working too?

Fair point! I'm not shy of continuity testing. However, I don't really want to get in and continuity test all of the wires leading from the door if VCDS could give me some indication of whether it is a wire, motor, comfort control or switch issue. It just seems unlikely to be a random break in a wire if all of the active things are broken but the passive things aren't. However, I could be barking up the wrong tree here so maybe it is a wire and VCDS is useless when it comes to door electrics (and headlights!) hence my original question about whether it is possible to test these two things using VCDS... It's a 2009 Thanks!

I've just splashed out on VCDS and must say I'm underwhelmed. I've spent ages trying to find the measuring blocks for my Greenline I but haven't found the two things I'm interested in. 1. The main beam is broken. I want to monitor the lights to see if it is a light stalk issue or something at the headlight end or maybe a wiring issue between the two. I can't find any lights other than 'blinkers' and reverse light switch in VCDS 2. The central locking doesn't lock the drivers door, the two front elecric windows don't work (manual rear) and the electric mirror adjust doesn't work. The window motor seems fine since the two front windows can be operated by rotating the key in the drivers door lock, VCDS shows that the door is open or closed and whether it is locked or not so I am assuming that the wiring loom at the door hinge is OK. I've viusually inspected it and can't see anything wrong with it. I've switched the fuses as mentioned on other posts and I've done the key operated window reset but that also produced no improvement. I can't find measuring blocks in VCDS for the window electrics, switches, regulators so yet again I can't use it to work out where the fault lies. If you have some tips, they would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Mike

I also have the same problem with my Fabia. There is a gap along the top of the door and the bottom of the door is closer than it should be. I tried to correct this by moving in the striker pin but then when opening the back door it was catching on the front one so I had to set it back. Meanwhile there is a lot of wind noise and a leak. I thought there might be a hinge adjustment screw but can't see anything. Before I start bending my door does anybody know of a way to adjust the hinges from the inside of the car? is there something you can use to move the top hinge pin closer to the car chasis? Thanks, Mike