criiser

Temp - I suspect that too. I'll top it off again and squese like a mad man.. (Thats how I did it intially aswell so. BUt might need again) Liners - Longrun. Now, i think its good.. Has to be. Seems to be. /C

Hey there. Job was finished with good success over two weeks ago.(Think I wrote that "Yesterday, assembled the entire engine back together.") Assembly was quite easily done after all. Borrowed compressor for air preassure cleaning in the enginge block. Used acetone on the HG, Head and Block. Assembled the Head with all the new gaskets for intake and exhaust. Cleaned the Trottle air intake (LOTS of residues) - Washed the coolant system with the cleaning solution. Fluished that out and refilled with fine fresh new cooland mix. New fresh oil and filter. Yeah we are good... The tempreature of the engine is not "rock on" the desired temprature. Goes up and down after it's "warm" - I write that to the crappy chinese stuff I replaced inittially. And also, haven dug up the ODBC connector to "reset" the Simos since I cleaned the air intake of residues. Apart from that. I think its good. Minor conserns about the gearbox and oil under the car around that area. - Will clean the entire engine from underneath and see where that oil might come from - or if that was from the engine that dripped down.... -Liners. Thats a big NO for me. Looks like the engine needs to come out to get onto that :( Not doing that...... And for now, the engine seems to be super fine anyway. An little uneven when warm and ideling - apart from that. Easy starter etc etc. So - next weekend i will see how coolant/oil-levels in the car and residues are. Thanks for checking back! As said before, this forum made me do the job properly and well guided!!! Great resource! /C

I believe the air was warmer than 20 c - and I was under the impression it needed to be lower.. right Prerequisites The engine must be cold and the air temperature must be below 20 C. What I read in the service manual was that the shims came in 0.10 mm 0.12mm and larger.. And the spec was between 0.07 and 0.12 but no more than 0.10 between the different ones. For me. That seems complicated to get all in the same level I used my steel ruler and my blade measures (Same as for the valve clearance) - But - this is just theory now and good to know what problems wrong protrusion can generate and IF that symptom happens, then revisit.. Br, Christian

So, summarizing the experience; Yesterday, assembled the entire engine back together. adjusted the Valves, however, in 20+ Celsius room and thus will need to redo them outside in Zero degree air.... As many before me, quite some smoke came out of the engine at first start up. Good thing I read abou this before and calling that down to Oil and 5-56 residues going away. With that said, remaining on the to do would be replace the Chinese thermostat and maybe investigate/clean the engine gearbox as I suspect an leak there as well. (that needs to be in different thread however..) But; I really must than you all for standing by and sharing your great advice - RicardoM and Felica16v (And all of you others!) all in all, the experience was great and something I would not hesitate to redo. In the end, It needed to be done this weekend as my work allows me no time in the weeks AND our other car sadly broke down too :( Outstanding questions: The procursion was not on ALL cylinders up to spec - within 0.10 mm of eachother but on #4 under 0.05 and up to 0.10 on #1 - What would you guys have done in this scenario? Kind regards, Christian

So. While waiting for the parts from CZ i removed one valve to see how it old seal was... And to by blunt suprise - the machine shop MUST have replaced them because that rubber and spring looked damn new to me. So - with that positive surprise I've moved on to re assemble the engine (as my MAIN car now has broken down.. and need repairs too :( ). measured the protrusion to 0.05 mm at least. Maybe cyl 4 (all the way top the right ) is a little bit less than that. I dont have thinner gauges :( and the 0.05 did not run under my metal bar... - reading the recomendation of 0.10 and the linings are 0.10 0.12 etc tells me that this might be something I have to live with... Will go back and see if i MIGHT get the 0.10 mm blade at some of the cylinders... Br, C

Yep.. And I would need to remove them to have an much easier installation of the AUX belt (Or whatever that belt running around there is called. Waterpump, generator, etc etc.) /C

Happened to me. Took the genererator to generator shop. Was, for me, cheaper to replace the entire thing with an refurbished one. IIRC, the coal was easy DYI, but the regulator was more a part of the generator it self (Still dooable). Br, C

Um, Out of curiosity, how do you expose the timing chain cover that nice? Open/remove something in left wheel house? Rusted bolts? Br, Christian

Gah - SO total cost for leveling the head ended up on 200 Eur.. But it looks brand new however - Sadly they dismounted all the valved... Should have sent with the seals :( So - further waiting for me now. Ordered two more valve seals from Lugosy and also the elusive Elring Headgasket... Around 15 Eur for the gasket seems reasonable enough. SO while waiting I will replace the seals I have... I my process, I need to clean the head bolts. Read about, Diesel, kerosene and normal DE-greaser. What are you using - and how? Kerosine bath? Diesel Bath? Regards, C

felica16v - I'm sorry to hear that. And to be honest there are not proper words to say on the cancer illnes.... I'm sorry! When it comes to the car/enginge - I dont NEED the car to run NOW NOW ish. so For me its not an hassle. I do this for recreation aswell as the actual getting the car to work for my daugher SO I dont mind checking the valve seals at all.. Infact they cost 2 EUR pice in se (I wish I got them all 8) and changing them seems real easy -WHY NOT- the car and the material in the seals SHOUDL have been worn over time. and 15 yrs is some years. Especially the warm/cold schenarios we have here in SE. Again, WHILE the head is dismounted are there stuff I should DO / Change while at it for a reasonable price... SO I dont need to redo this again in 6 months... TO get access to {insert random gasket/seal/blah}.. THAT is the feedback I think many of us DIY is seeking here... Stuff we WOULD never know, but you as professionals DO know and hopefully don't mind sharing.. like theese valve seals.. CHEAP as f....ck do them while at it... I read another thread here where the DIY did it under 1,5 hrs all in all... Well TBH - I might not be the fastest worker. But slow and steady is my way hence DIY and not professional Mechanic... Workwise - its a different ballgame Im picking up the Head tomorrow morning... SO exited.. 100 Eur for the level struff. Seems reasonable... BUT The main thing is, I TRULY feel confident in this thanks to you all and this great community!!! Br, Christian

I truly truly apologize and sincerely wish you and your family the best of health! Wish for that to be resolved in the best of ways! As far as the brand of HG - I have the Temac one in hand if wich i was lucky to realize that two professionals recomended - So depending on the delivery times involved with Lugosy the Temac one might just end up on the engine. Again, my best wishes for you and your family! Kind regards, Christian

Woohooo... Where are you getting the impression IM -NOT- listening to your advice.. Hold on there in the thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377871-skoda-classic-parts-directly-from-czech-republic/ You write amongst others : -"...He works as a mechanic and he is a very serious, knowledgeable, and thrustworthy guy...." (Referring to Lugosy) In the same thread I asked for prices on HG for the project and Lugosy said: -"Hi Christian, here are parts, which I recommending - only original, not china and turkey. Head gasket only Elring. Temac = vulgo original Skoda, is no long living ****. I have Temac only 10000 km, and broken. But Elring was mounting in production, and it is quality." HENCE why I wrote: -"Gah - battle that out with Lugosy's plz" - referring to your friend and his recomendations... further: Why I asked about the battery thing -because again- I read up on this forum (Ofc not all might be correct, hence why I ask:) http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/357889-throttle-body-problems-felicia-fun/?hl=%2Breset+%2Becu Indicated that disconnecting MIGHT sometimes -"Some times disconeting battery will work" So; Summing this up. I have an Temac HG. Lugosy recomends Elring. You recomend Lugosy. What gasket should I get really...... Im confused af.. I dont mind going back to my shop with the Temac HG and getting my money back. SO wasting money wont be an issue.. But what WOULD be great, is if you have an discussion with Lugosy and maybe you two guys can settle the score on the HG selection. If you said Mount Microsoft HG - I would Again, Your patience with us DIY is amazing! Kind regards, Christian

Hah - Good 4 me - It seems that the original I got -IS infact the Temac ONE-- (Added pics in the gallery) -Wooho- /C

So, today was rather slow on this project. Removed the cover in-front of the cylinders, cleaned, replaced the rubber gasket and refitted it. Cleaned all Bolt holes and removed old residues on the block. Used compressed air to also clean out the bolt holes. Removed the coolant tank and are give it some degreasing love. Removing the nasty oil residues inside it... again - Also fitted new coupe air filter while at it. Fairly easy to reach when the engine and all is away - The thread cleaner kit I got, was too small. So the "cleaner" did not get ALL the way down in the long bolt holes... SO, considering getting an longer kit.. When It comes to the valve seat seals, I think I will get the tool - I don't have any "spare" spanners NOR do I have an setup that allows me to drill into one. Looking at my goto shop did not have it.. Hmm so, might have to BUY an spanner for this to make sense - Hmm. Anyway, that will have to wait until the head is back from the shop.... Any suggestions on cleaning the air-intake / throttle stuff? I read somewhere in this forum that you should do that to get good idling speed at the engine again. (And reset the ECU too) I believe the ECU in the car is REALLY resetted by now.. NO battery connected for 3 weeks Lastly, the HG itself. I got one Original one already, however, since the valve seat seals are OUT of production I was opting for getting those from Lugosy's in the thread getting parts from Him. IN that thread, he clearly recommended "Elring HG". Since that was WAY better than the original (that I actually already have).. Again, I have no clue what is better than the other SO I come to you all for that advice.. Kind regards, Christian Edit: Found the tool at last. 15 Eur is a no brainer: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Motor/Ventilfjaderbage-2000016983/

Gah - battle that out with Lugosy's plz He said that /C

So - status. Left the head at the machine shop. And will pick it up next friday. THEY had a LOT in their shop Good business.. Will clean the block for now, and get the remaining parts and the Elring Head gasket and not the original one based of Lugosy's recomendations. Also hoping that he can hook me up with the seals too since I got only 6 original parts. And he had an good/better alternative to it. SO - slowly moving/making progress.... Br, C

Now, there are parts that are not available in Sweden. I gound them: 10 pcs. of 047109675A - Valve seats gaskets thinggy... Was recomended to change all of them and Sweden could only give me 6 and then when ordering - also ge the PROPER HG that you recomend for the car AND not the Factory default one I got Please :-) Br, Christian

They irony. There is only 6 ones left.. THIS is when I will see if Lugio can find some more for me And mabe also order the right HG and not the factory one.. /C

That part I got. So that means dismantling the all of the valves.... Saw an video of that now - does not seem that complicated if I get that tool... Too... and would make alot of sense to do. Since pretty much eveything is open now... Got an machine shop to level the head and preassure test it also - Going there thursday. 125Eur they wanted for the job. Hope that bugger will be flatter than flat Superflat So I need to order them darn rubber thiggys on the valves too then... Oki doki.. Will get the partnr and order Eh.. Would it be an terrible request to ask for the nr of this link: http://www.teilekataloge.info/skoda/view_parts.php?catalog=sk&markt=CZ&modell=FEL&einsatz=2000&epis_typ=101&dir_name=R&hg_ug=103&bildtafel2=103050 Of the part that Im going to replace.. Cant seem to find/understand.... the rubber part nr... Th Proexcursion thinggy. I got an level aluminum bar. AND some blade meassures. Will go ahead and take some measurements when I the car again thursday.. /C

"linings protrusion." - Eh, no idea what that is nor did google help me on this one :( What is that, linings i get, the wet "socket" around the cylinders. But PROTRUSION? Put that into google and you get alot of STRANGE hits on DOGs rear ends........... Guess that IS no the one im after :-) "Now it would be a good time to replace the valve stem seals and check valve seats / valves for pitting." - Poured gasoline into the valves / All of them. As i saw one of the other vids referred to earlier. Noooo leaks here. Assuming that is the Valves seats and valves that are good... But replacing them "just-in-case" or.. Eh. Br, C

So - removed rust from the part indicated on the gasket and identified an track of rust getting darn close to the OIL canal. Also tried to show the other rusted parts of the gasket. THE head and the block are SUPER smooth. Running my fingers slowly over and over the areas is for me completely crack/gap free. I found one are on the BLOCK that looked like traces of OIL going into the area around the cylinders. So - adding HOT/COLD (REALLY COLD) to the rust in the gasket MIGHT open an tiny tiny canal from oil into coolant at times.... theory... Anyways - shutting the operation down for this weekend - need to the that head to the shop to make it SUPER level/cleaned (and pack..). Plan is Thursday when I'm back from work. -Eh- and - I REALLY need to say an HUGE thanks to all of you that are participating in diagnosing and looking/helping/cheering etc etc.! MUCH appreciated!!! Kind regards, Christian

Yeah I has swelled on several places indeed. Cleaning the head I was thinking of skipping since I might as well send it to be leveled and THEN it will be SUPER clean But I will bring out the acetone and the brass brush I have.. TO go at it Maybe even use 5-56 (wd40). Ricardo, you looked up the milage on an Swedish Site - BTW great investigation skills - EXIF info from the pictures/or Google pic leaking Anyways. Going down to clean it now - and snap some more pictures /©

So - I should clean the head and block properly and more MACRO photos.. Roger. But the gasket too? or just macro pictures? 11941 miles turns into 119410 Km - right? divided by 15 years = 7961 aprox Km/year - That is some serious driving imho. If my calculations is correct... /C

Also now fully dismantled the Head and cleaned the core plugs. they look REAL solid, non corroded and fine to me. Added pics of them too.. Question for me now is: What is the max clearance of the head - so I know if I need to get it machined down or now. And the same for the engine block.. (Goes back to the serviceManauls) /C Edit found in previous threads: 0.04 mm - that is sick little.. MAchine shop we go

Lugosy, Thank you for your investigations. I used the sites to find the parts but as I found out, in Sweden it was really easy to order them and pick them up at the local VW dealer. I used the parts numbers and boom they arrived to the shop for me to pick up. Now I don't know if the gasket is the brand you recommend however, will investigate that. Kind regards, Christian