gary6019

Thanks for the info. Having listened more closely to the noise, a snapped regulator cable sounds very feasible. Having removed the rivets, can the panel only be re-attached (afterwards) by fitting new rivets, or is there any option to bolt the panel back on ?

I've got a Fabia 1.9 Diesel Ambiente Tdi Pd 100 (manufactured in 2006). It's a 5 door hatchback. This morning I lowered the front (passenger side) electric window, but can't raise the window again (it is stuck in the down position). I suspect some debris may have fallen in and jammed the electric motor which raises the window. The motor still runs (or at least tries to) when I press the switch to raise the window, so it's not a power supply issue. I've found a few DIY videos, and it looks like the first step is to remove the inner door trim. It then seems that I would have to remove an inner (metal) panel which looks a bit more tricky, and may involve drilling out rivets. Which seems odd, because I've always found that Skodas are well designed with a view to making maintenance easy. So at this point I though I'd ask for help - maybe there's an easier way? I'd be really grateful for any advice which may help.

My wiring problem is now solved ! I checked fuse number 10 and found that it had blown. When I replaced it, pin 4 started giving me 12v with the keys in place, and zero volts with them removed (which is exactly what I need). None of the online material (or indeed my Haynes manual) mentions fuse number 10, so the advice provided on this forum has been priceless. The next job is to look at those links that you've posted regarding aerial boosters..... When I posted on this forum for the first time (a couple of days ago), I didn't know what to expect, but I've been hugely impressed with what I've seen. You guys really do know your stuff !

Thanks very much for your reply. I will buy an aerial booster as you suggest. There are a number on the market, so if you (or anyone else) on here has a recommendation about which one to get, I would be most interested. The brown/red wire (pin4) currently has zero volts regardless of whether the ignition is on or off (rather than having 12v when the ignition is on, and zero volts when the key is removed). I believe that the audio system only uses one fuse (number F45, which I've checked), so the lack of power in this wire is hard to explain (unless there's a break in the wire somewhere, which is probably going to be hard to find).

I'm installing a new radio into my Skoda Fabia (which was manufactured in 2006, and is a Diesel Fabia Ambiente Tdi Pd 100, with an AXR engine). I'm pretty sure the previous radio was the original (factory fitted) one. I found two really helpful posts on this site (http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/196288-oem-wiring-loom-colours-pins-for-stereos/ and http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/258013-how-to-replace-fabia-aerial-base/), which have helped a great deal. However, I still have two unresolved problems, and would be very grateful if anyone has any ideas which may help. Firstly, whilst I can get perfect FM reception, I don't get any AM reception at all (it's non-existent, rather than poor - I just get static). I used a multi-meter to prove there's no break in the wiring (from the aerial base unit down to the aerial jack which plugs into the radio). Changing the aerial antenna also makes no difference, and I get the same problem with two different car radios (so the radio itself is unlikely be at fault). If I remove the antenna, FM changes from being perfect to being very faint, but is still audible (which suggests that the aerial and its wiring are probably okay). My next step will be to try an inline aerial booster (such as this one - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Car-Aerial-Antenna-Booster-Amplifier/dp/B004SO5FUE), unless anyone has any other suggestions? The second problem is that on my car, none of the wires in the black connector (which are so helpfully described here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/196288-oem-wiring-loom-colours-pins-for-stereos/) seem to be at 12V when the ignition is switched on AND at zero volts when it is switched off. I've measured them all with a multi-meter. So I'm currently using pin5 for the yellow lead on the new radio, and pin7 for the red lead (pin4 doesn't seem to behave as described in that post). This works, but it means my radio remains on, even when the ignition is off (so I have to remember to turn the radio off whenever I leave the car, which is workable, but not ideal).