retro

Thanks both that's my feeling too, ah well back to looking.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some advice on buying a 2014 1.2 TSI Roomster Scout 55k miles no service history. I found the following issues when looking over it: Coolant light on when it was first started but after a 10 mile drive the light went out and when I checked the level it was way above maximum. Chinese tyres all round - I do not touch Chinese tyres so these will all need replacing. Front brake discs have a pronounced lip Front brake pads half worn The front wishbone rear bush both sides are perishing Base of wiper arms painted badly and have spider rust under the bad paint Oil around rocker cover Scratches down the one side All alloys kerbed Rust by rear bumper underneath the car Undertrays full of mud and stones They want £5995 for it with no service history (they have just serviced it) It drives well and has enough power for my wife and plenty of space for the two dogs in the back but I'm not prepared to pay anywhere near the 6k they want. Any advice on what to look for if I go for a 2nd look? What would anyone else value it at? Thanks for the help.

I was being silly, found it now, but can't select breaking cars so I assume freedom membership is required?

See the screenshot below, I'm logged in and can't see a new thread button. 2020-07-11_05-50-14 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I am signed in otherwise I couldn't post anything haha.

Thanks for that, I still can't see a button anywhere to start a new thread though.

I'm going to be breaking my 2003 mk1 Fabia VRS soon, I have tried to start a thread in the classifieds section, I can only select some of the classified sections to post in unless I'm a freedom member. However the breaking section doesn't even show up in the drop down selections. Any help appreciated, is it just a case of becoming a freedom member?

Was the fault present before the remap or did it start during the remap? If during the remap then they have cocked something up and need to remove whatever junk they put on your car for free.

Have you tried opening the rear left door? Both mine and my wife's old fabia sometimes the boot wouldn't open unless you open the rear left door, weird problem they both shared.

The new rear caliper was already wound back so I just fitted it and didn't touch the other side. Took absolutely ages to get fluid coming through it with the ezi bleeder. I'm gonna borrow my mates vacuum bleexer and see if that improves them. Just thought I would add that the brakes have done about 2k miles maybe more so the discs and pads should have bedded in by now.

Yep, if they went on the wrong side the bleed nipple would be at the bottom.

I bled with VCDS as I changed a rear caliper a few days after fitting the 312mm upgrade and I couldn't get any pedal so got someone from eBay to come over with his laptop and we bled the brakes, it was a massive improvement but still not right. I was trying a gunsons ezi bleed before that. My mate has one of those vacuum bleeders, I'll give that a go and the shims if another go with the ezi bleed doesn't work.

I fitted Octavia VRS 312mm brake calipers and carriers which bigg red shot blasted and cermaic bake on painted then I rebuilt with a seal and piston kit from them. It has been bled with VCDS but they feel rubbish, not much happens at the top of the pedal and then when you really stand on them they don't inspire confidence. Even the knackered 288mm I took off were way better than these. I almost knocked a cyclist off as I was doing 40mph and they randomly decided to veer across the road in front of me with a car coming the other way! The brakes took forever to stop me. I also fitted new Octavia front flexi hoses, rear discs and pads are in good order and the fronts are Brembo discs and pads not cheap junk, I can't see any leaks anywhere. Has anyone got any ideas on this one? I'm more used to stuff from the 80's not all the computerised rubbish (what ejit designs a car you need a computer to bleed?!?!). So I can't get my head around what could be up other than it needing another bleed as the dead spot suggests to me.

Easy look at Halfords Comma G40, they do varying colours and are ethylene glycol based. The coolant that is OAT states clearly it is OAT based. And I have seen varying colours as I'm a mechanic and you don't put the wrong stuff in by using resources such as auto data, Haynes manual etc. It isn't conventional colours for the type of coolant have quoted but common misconception. I have blue glycol in one of my cars, green in another and red in my VRS.

It's not designed for OAT it is designed for glycol. The colour means nothing, I have seen blue, green, red, purple and yellow glycol. I have seen blue and red OAT, the colour is just that a colour and it has no impact. I had purple glycol in my VRS which thanks to Sepulchrave I now know is to show up under fluorescent lighting and refilled it with red glycol after changing the cambelt and waterpump.

Oh no we have contradicting info here then. The one I was looking at is a Circolli one from euro car parts which is £7.xx so I thought that's a great price but how long will it last. But if genuine ones aren't any good then I might just go for it. It says it opens at 87 degrees but the temperature is meant to be 90 degrees. Is that the correct temp to open at?

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=318438&productId=922499&storeId=10001 This is what I use for mine, apparently if you paint them with clear coat after it seals it and they don't fade again. Never tried it myself but I might the next time I do them.

Here you go

It's all bolt on so go for it, not sure if the rear bumper off a hatchback will fit an estate though. I wouldn't fit a VRS interior though as it will be impossible to keep clean as they are white. I have a Bohemia interior in mine which looks really nice, mk2 fabia sport interior looks almost identical to the Bohemia one and being black is inkeeping with the rest of the trim.

70 mph on my Speedo is just under 1800rpm

Hi all My 2003 VRS is taking ages to warm up! It's been sat for 18 months and is now back on daily duties, I drive it 13 miles to work. It does eventually get up to temperature if I drive at higher speeds but the moment I slow down the temp starts dropping off and if I turn the heating on it drops to about 70 degrees. My MPG is down massively too, I'm thinking it's the thermostat but I thought I would check as the ex VAG guy at work reckons it is the gauge or the CTS. Anyone else experienced this? We recently changed the cambelt, waterpump and coolant but I can't imagine it being an airlock as we ran it up with no cap on for a bit and revved it etc before putting the cap on.

I have the long ratio in my mapped VRS, motorway speeds are very relaxed and it can easily speed up to overtake even in 6th. I do find that around 40-60mph I'm changing gears a lot on B roads that are hilly as it ends up so low down in the revs that it can't quite carry the speed on slight inclines and sometimes on the flat depending on the speed limit so I change down. 2nd gear I have got to 60mph but it was revving to 5k (didn't even realise until I looked down) but 3rd gear just seems to last forever!

Up to the mods if this is allowed but I broke my wife's 1.4 mpi a couple of years back and still have some bits left. Radiator (about a year of use) with hoses Air con radiator Throttle body and manifold Gauge cluster Some bits of trim These are all free to a good home, collection from Worcester. I didn't want to chuck them in the bin without at least offering them for free to the forum.

I tried bleeding mine with a gunsons ezi bleed, it left me with a spongy brake pedal. In the end I got someone to come over who had VCDS and bleed it with that. You need to do both front calipers at the same time then both rear calipers while filling up the reservoir, it's a two or three man job really.

I was going to say a decat is pointless. Forget petrol tuning, getting more power from a diesel is different.