Martin191

Thanks Ken, I got one of Partsgateway in the end, not sure if its interchangeable, but I got it for 28 quid delivered.

Thought so, any idea if they're interchangeable then? I've seen a load of mk4 golf / a few audi tt master cylinders, and a few look to have an extra pipe or two

Also to add to this - both the bleed nipples have sheared off the master cylinder.

When removing the master cylinder as it was taken out is sounded like it was drawing air in, then once refitted it then started hissing when pushing the brake pedal, while the engine was off. What does that make you think?

Hi does anyone know what other brake master cylinders I can fit to a 2002 Octavia VRS. Mine is making a hissing noise when pressing the brake pedal after removal. Thanks

I can vouch for the crank sensor.. the same thing's just happened to mine. after replacing everything was fine.

is the issue I'm having similar to what you have?

Threads a bit old mate... Wouldn't mind redeeming though, My vrs has a weird issue where boost drops off by a few psi then rebuilds back up again, all without lifting the throttle.

Sounds like noisy tappets, when was the last oil change?

To be fair I also recently removed the Sai and that seemed to occasionally give me the odd 2 crank start.

My money would be on the crank sensor. I noticed these problems recently and no codes appeared, then one day the crank sensor just gave up on me. After replacing it was back to normal once again.

Get in touch with tierod69 on ebay, they sorted me a new sump for £30-40 delivered the next day. It'll be a much better fix than heli coiling it.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete I recommend doing n112, n249 and pcv delete with a catch can install. This will remove all potential air leaks and overall creates a much more responsive car (you'd be surprised!) Also in regards to the throttle body, you won't need a replacement gasket if you're careful, and Euro car parts sells carb cleaner for £2.50, if you've got one close. I think they also do the tb gasket too, don't quote me on that though. Edit - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5417830-FAQ-Links-DIY-Reference-Table-of-Contents-1-8t This has just about every problem noted, a search on there usually brings up a guide on how to solve it.

Try cleaning your throttle body, that fixed a similar problem I had a while back.

May have spoken too soon, after 4 cold starts with it being fine, the 5th put me in limp... O well! The throttle response is much better and it boosts a lot harder without that stupid suction jet pump now anyway.. The brakes also seem unaffected.

Finally found my problem, after all this time it was the suction jet pump... I did the suction jet pump this morning after reading that it can cause the error code 17705 that I've been experiencing. Straight after removal my car was more responsive and didn't have the air rushing noise it used to have when coming on boost. Also want to redeem V12 as although vital checks weren't made, he was dedicated to his service and was adamant it wasn't a software issue, which turned out to be correct.

I'd say it's gearbox related, if you engage the clutch does the noise die down a bit?

I can pressurise and hold 30 psi between the turbo and the intake manifold so I highly doubt it's an air leak. Also block 032 was showing 0.8 in the left hand field It would go in to limp mode on the old map without a manual boost controller installed. But If i'm honest I think that's because the guy who remapped just told the ecu to boost 15+ psi without the ecu requesting it. Causing the overboost limp mode.

It must be that time of the year! 1 week a go my Crank sensor broke (speed sensor). I changed it and now it's running as smooth as ever. I had the exact same symptoms as you, it was showing signs of breaking 1 week prior to the car stalling whilst driving and becoming almost impossible to start. If I were you I'd get it changed now before the stalling starts. Also to note: I got the 16706 fault code and the EPC light came on when my car played up. EDIT - I also changed my fuel filter prior to this, but it didn't make a difference.

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Just bought myself some Koni STR.T with H&R Springs and I can honestly say it's one of the best investment's I've made to date. Brilliant handling and puts the power down really well. In my opinion the ride is just right, it doesn't break your back when going over a speed bump and it also doesn't wallow about in corners.

So everything is running well on the crank sensor front, but the 17705 fault still persists! It's been booked in to see the guy who remapped it this weekend, but out of interest would a faulty map sensor cause this, and if so, how would I test this?

Just took it out for a quick spin, unfortunately couldn't get up to speed to see if it still stutters, but It ran like it used to, and it didn't go in to limp mode either (though that could have just been a luck of the draw) I'll have to report back in a day or so once I've taken it out for a drive a few more times.

Had a nightmare trip back from work yesterday, ended up having to drive it in first and second gear for 10 odd miles to keep the rpm high / to stop it from conking out. Bought and fit a new sensor today though and it starts! which is a huge improvement from yesterday! I can't take it out for a drive due to being blocked in on the road I'm parked on, but idling seems a fair bit smoother too, if it can effect that.

Tell me about it! Its only taken it 2 months to throw a code! Could this cause a knock on effect that triggers the 17705 code?