thirty3

A few guides and info...might be useful to some1....stumbled upon while playing with my google. http://translate.goo...ru/html/2_7.htm

TPS do the part as well....last time I asked I think it was £143 or £147 inc VAT.

Hope this helps some doing the repair. The instruction come in english and german and are very poor quality the pics are poor too...but here are the instructions. Instructions came with ABS repair kit 1k0698517B. All health and safety not included and individual should have the necessry training to carry such work and at your own risk. Supplied for info only not as a guide. 1. General Notes to the MK60-p ESC The brake system is split diagonally. Brake boost is created from the vacuum servo booster. The Mk60 unit (HECU) consistes of the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and the electronic control unit (ECU). Seperation of the unit is only possible after removal of the MK60 unit. 2. General notes for removal. The change of components is only permitted by qualified personnel with the assistance of the service and repair instructions of the OEM Vehicle is standstill Use on board diagnostics to find out whether the failure cause refers to a pressure sensor failure in the HCU (dtc 01435 069B) ***(i THINK THIS SHOULD BE G201)*** Take car of ESD (electro static discharge) Pick spare parts out of package just before assembly Incorrect assembly can result is negative performance of braking system. Ensure absolute cleanliness when working. Clean surface of ECU with mineral oil prior to work Ensure no fluid enters the electrical connector Dont use compressed air when the system is opened or move car Electrical connectors at connector, pressure sensor and ECU as well as sealing elements must not be touched. Remove all componenets that restrict acess to braking system. Close all hydraulic ports immediately with appropriate caps after dissasembly of the ESC unit. HECU assembly/diaasembly on work bench only. 3.Hydraulic-Electronic control unit removal Switch off ignition and disconnect GND (earth) pole of battery. Remove electronic connector by pulling out the lock on the connector and remove the connector. Push down on brake pedal approx 60mm with a stick/bar or the proper brake depress tool. This closes the TMC central valves and stops fluid running out of the open system. Connect bleed bottles to one front wheel and one rear wheel on the same side. Open the bleeder nipples to decrease pressure that was built up in the brake system before. Identify the pipes and remove the brake lines leading to the TMC at HCU first. Close open ports with included caps immediately. Identify the pipes and remove the brake lines to the brake circuits. Close ports with caps. Loosen and remove screws securing the HCU in the ........ bracket(unreadable). Remove complete unit from bracket. 4. Diassemble Electronic Control Unit Loosen and remove both torx head screws. New ones inc in kit. The pump is not connected anymore be careful Hold tight the pump motor and HCU and remove the ECU (so basically you are removing the bit that never came with your repair kit 1k0698517B. The pump motor adapter can be torn out of the electronic controller during dissasembly due to corrosion and remain in the valve block bore. In this case the complete HECU has to be exchanged If the ECU has damaged contact pins (ECU connector DC motor contact pins) the ECU cannot be used and a complete HECU has to be exchanged 5 Prepare new ECU and new HCU for assembly In a re-assembled ECU the pressure sensor contact may not be touched or damaged. The housing edge of the pressure sensor also must not be damaged (sealing element) No humidity or dirt are allowed to enter the ECU Avoid ESD (electro-static discharge 6. Assemble ECU Assemble used ECU and new HCU without canting. Secure ECU to HCU with new torx screws 5.5+0.5Nm (note HECU is not sealed before complete assembly) 7. HECU refitting important- The port covers and the pump motor assembly aid of HCU should only be removed when the connecting pipe or brake line is ready to be fitted. This prevents dirt ingress and contamination of the brake system and reduces fluid loss. Insert unit into the holding bracket and torque securing nuts to 8 + 2 Nm Remove port covers and pump motor assembly aid and connect wheel circuit lines to valve block ensuring each one is in correct place. Repeat process for master cylinder pipes. Ensure connection go on square to prevent cross threading Torque pipes to 13-20Nm Reconnect battery Connect ECU harness and lock connector Fill brake fluid resevoir to MAX with Dot 4 brake fluid and bleed vehicle as shown in workshope manual Calibrate pressure sensor of ABS using Vag-com/VCDS Switch on ignition and ABS and ESP warning lights should go out. Clear the ESP fault using Vagcom/vcds and rescan for faults. One final test drive make sure that min, one brake cycle was done with ABS control (pulsation in brake pedal must be felt)......I think this mean bleeding the ABS using Vagcom but my opinion only.) 8. Genral notes for assembly. Only use Dot 4 brake fluid. Subsequent to rework or repair of the brake system, completely check both the conventional and ABS parts for correct function according to workshop manual. Check hydraulic ports and connection for leakage. (assembly and dissasembly of ECU and HCU only permitted for maximun of six times.) This guide is for information and not as a description of how to carry out this repair. I've added a few bits of grammar here and there.....I was never anygood at english anyway. If something does not compute let me know and I will check instructions again just incase I made a mistake. Most of this process is in elsawin if you have it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/05-08-SKODA-OCTAVIA-A5-ABS-REPAIR-KIT-1K0698517B-/380343020758?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588e35ecd6

I had the same issue with a vag golf....probably same setup. The handbrake was not releasing.....there was nothing wrong with the cable itself but the cable inner sheath was moving....new handbrake cable sorted it (about £10 from dealer). I dont understand the new caliper thing.

This fella sprayed the stuff into his egr.. carb cleaner

Is that the only thing (a seized) engine could be if you cannot turn it over by hand ?? What are the symtoms of a hydrolocked engine ??? thx

How mch are the steel wheels from skoda themselves without tyres......

Is your engine missfiring.....or is it a different kind of bad idle.

Is this missing ???? or does it sound different. Have you tried pulling one ht at a time to see if it changes anything.

I agree no priming needed. Just cycle the ignition on and off say 3/4 times.

You know when you use the windscreen washers and then the windscreen wipes wipe like 4 - 5 times and stop. Is there anyway to alter this via vcds. So they just wipe once or twice max

Do you think at the refineries they have special tanks ets for supermarket fuel and say shell fuel. Imagine the cost and manpower involved to start seperating and altering additives to what would be same fuel. Dont get me wrong I'm no refinery expert it just seems unfeesable. I'm not including the likes of v power (the higher ron stuff) just the basic petrol or diesel.