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well the lights are still working and no fuses blown so i guess that this must have been the issue, something as simple as changing various bulbs and making sure correct bulbs are put in.

hi to answer N=nearside and O=offside. I found it hard to believe a bulb was blown considering i have checked all the bulbs and they were all fine a few days later one is blown. Apparently they testing the wiring and found draw leading to that bulb, the bulb did have some blackened glass as they showed me, but the bulb did work. They said with a combination of all these must have been enough to cause it to blow the fuse, i know i was a little bit weary about all this, but if the fuse doesn't blow come Xmas then i guess they were right but time will tell.

hi Ricardo here is some more detail from the invoice: O/S/R sidelight bulb incorrect current draw = fit correct bulb O/S/F sidelight bulb high resistance = replace bulb N/S/R upper sidelight bulb blown = replace bulb like i said i will see how it goes i know that i replaced a couple of bulbs but like i said i replaced with what manufacturer stated.

hi all to have contributed this this topic. I took it to the garage and they said when they did there tests that they found a couple of bulbs that were not correct for there intended use even though there were working and corrosion free and that they had found a bulb which was causing a draw which they believed was causing it to blow the bulb was ever so slightly blackened on the glass. So far it hasn't blown but its only been two days, and in the past the fuse sometimes lasts a week, i am not totally sure if this is the cause because apart from the bulbs i changed that were rusty which are the correct bulbs, the rest of the bulbs haven't been changed for over a year so unless the bulb causing the draw has gotten worse overtime this could be the only reason. However i had to admit when i checked the bulbs i was looking for blown bulbs, corrosion, loose fittings etc, i never once thought to check every bulb to see if it was the correct specification for light, i think because the bub was working i assumed it was correct my fault, but i never thought someone in the past would just put whatever bulb they thought would work, so i suppose lesson learned. So if you ever have problems like this its not always something complicated but could be something as simple as wrong bulbs. but i will put an updated later in a couple of weeks and mark this topic as solved if all is still going well. I would also like to thank everyone again for the information and that this forum is really useful and a must for Skoda owners. I like i have said i have owned many types of cars from luxury cars to even 2-stroke engine cars(great fun) and this is my first Skoda and i have to admit i like the Felicia is simple, reliable, capable, cheap, and comfortable, and i would have another, the estate which i have is surprising big and can hold a lot more than you think.

Hi Ricardo the car has done 119,000. Wiring i Believe is all original, and nothing has been added still the original radio. The car has ben serviced with a Skoda dealer up to 2014 then it was done by a mechanic who owned the car to who i bought the car from this year (March 2016). I really am scratching my head, I will give another check over the next few days as the ame fuse has blown again after 3 days but if no joy by wednesday i will book it into a garage and see if they can find anything. But in till then any ideas?

if your not that bothered with originals in the past friends of mine have just bought scrap bit of carpet from carpet shop and cut to fit, you want to aim for getting carpet that they use in offices and schools as its not deep pile and hard wearing. just an idea.

hi thanks again for the info, i checked the tailgate wires a while ago as i remember when i have a volvo 240 the tailgate wires use to be really bad for having cracks and breakages in. But they all seem fine. UPDATE: Ok last night we had a very heavy down pour and today i thought i would check the lights again and they all seemed fine however what i noticed this time that the drivers foot well, and insulation under right hand side steering column was wet and after giving it a squeeze a load of water came out, so possibly in the past only damp and small amount of water had been getting in but not enough to come through the insulation hence no evidence. But after the big down pour of rain this showed a leak. However when i took the dash out it all seem and looked dry and all the padding was bone dry. So i can anyone advised best places to check for blocked holes and possible leaks??? also could this just be another problem and not related to the electrical problem?? Should i take the dash out again? I did read on other threads of corrosion around window and window seals, however i am looking for a cheap fix as i will have the car in till March 2017 when i will leave the UK, as i am going to Africa for 16 months to do unpaid charity work. The car has been great and the estate is surprising big once seats are down, and the 1.3MPI engine is great, i would easily have another one on my return.

ok firstly want to say for the long wait, the weather hasn't been great so have been unable to have a look at the car, but finally checked everything you asked and did the wiggle test nothing made it blow. However after doing all of this and also finding another bulb which the glass spun in its metal base the indicators would not work, they had just blown a fuse :thumbdown: so after getting the new bulb and replaced both fuses now indicators worked fine now as does the lights, but i decided to take the dash out and have a look for any suspect wires or water, after following a clip on youtube that i found on this forum i managed to remove the dash without taking the steering wheel off and i could find nothing all the wires seemed fine no sign of water only thing was dust. So still nothing so i am guessing that in a couple of days the fuse will blow again :( but hopefully the indicators wont blow, i am hoping that was just a result of me poking around while doing wiggle test. I am really am banging my head against a brick wall only other thing i can can possibly think of is that the wiring going the length of the car has crack in it but this is a nightmare of a job, maybe i should seek a mechanic or auto electrician. Or maybe just maybe the slack bulb was the culprit lets hope so, because 7.5amp fuses are a pain to get hold of you can't just simply buy a bag of 7.5amp fuses you need to buy a bag of fuses that have all sorts of fuses and they tend to only have a few 7.5amp fuses and loads of everything else. Has anyone got any more ideas???????

its only one dipped light, and its the same fuse as before thats blown. The fuse lasted about 8-9 days before blown. any ideas.

Well just as I thought the issue was fixed, the fuse has blown again I still have full beam etc just not dipped or rear light as the fuse has blown. Any ideas? I am really scratching my head now, would it be worth check the earthing points on the vehicle? but I would have thought if there were issues with the earthing points on the vehicle then other electrics would be affected. Any information please let me know.

I will let you know if all goes well in a weeks time. But i wanted to say thanks again Ricardo you are a great asset to this forum and a man full of knowledge, and thanks again for your help and easy step by step instructions, as well as quick replies. You helped me with my last issue and now with this, and i would also like to say thanks to the forum as this has been one of the better forums i have been on out of all the various car forums i have been on and the various cars i have owned which is many. I also want to say that the Felicia has been a great car and in my top 8 cars i've owned. its up there with the Trabant, Triumph acclaim, Mercedes W123 (x2), Mercedes W211, Volvo 240, Honda Civic. and even although all those cars are completely different they have all put a smile on my face.

ok i have tried all this and still nothing has blown but on inspection of the rear double filament bulb i could see a small about of corrosion inside the bulb and i gave the bulb a little shake and a small piece of rust was loose so its likely under driving conditions this small piece of rust bouncing around could cause it to short but not blow the bulb. Is this the likely culprit? I will replace the bulb and put a 7.5 amp fuse back in and monitor, and hopefully this will be the end of it.

Hi the issue just happened all of a sudden. Today i checked both front and rear lights and both seem dry and corrosion free and wiring at both ends seem fine. I checked all the relays and pulled them all out and they also seem dry and corrosion free as does the board ( i removed the board from the tray and it was dry. Any other things i can check? (without having to pull dashboard apart) also thanks for explaining the relays, my rear wiper does indeed only operate if you hold the stalk like you mentioned. The front wiring looms for the front lights have a spare plug at each side which i presume are for models with front fog lights?

Firstly i would like to say sorry if this has already been asked. Searching lights brought too many threads. I suppose its always good to have a refresh of answers as well. Car details 1999 Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPI estate. The driver side front right hand corner light and rear same side light keeps blowing a fuse, but this is not always instantly it can last a week or a few days. The fuses in question is a 7.5 amp. I have supplied pictures of the fuse board and relay board. Looking at the Haynes manual and comparing to the pictures taken it seems some relays are missing is this normal or is this depending on model. Please see pictures attached. I am not the most electrical minded, and before i started poking around i thought it would be best to speak to people on hear who often know more than mechanic's. The sunroof was leaking a while ago but nothing major and has now been sealed up and the fuses seem dry and do the harnesses. as for the relays, going by what the Haynes manual states it looks like the following is missing: R6 : warning buzzer fro sidelights R2 : front fog lights INT : rear wash/wipe as for R2 i can understand as the car doesnt have front fogs. but the rest puzzles me as the light warning buzzer works, and the rear wash/wipe works. Anyone shed any light? any information would be great. Blown fuse has been removed from the fuse board.

Hi i have a Felicia 1.3MPI GLXi estate 1999, and haven't had it long and the brakes seem to pretty crap but was told the front brakes had been done but i aint sure its got the usual signs of wear i.e metallic grating noise, and brake pedal has to be pushed pretty far down to get any results, also i noticed recently that sometimes when turning one the wheels sometimes.

hi here is an update on the old cap. Still no oil in the coolant tank/expansion tank, and no loss of coolant either.

sorry for the long reply, ok after buying a thermostat thinking it was broken, i first thought i try changing the thermostat sensor from the new thermostat first to see if this was the problem, turns out the gauge has started to work and after 7mins the temp gauge stated 70C, which i think is normal. Now just need to tackle the brakes which dont seem to that great when braking i think some adjusting needs done, any tips on brakes? i would also like to thank everyone for taking the time to give me info. This forum seems to be very helpful compared to other car make forums

hi thanks again for replying. I used a digital thermometer on the hoses the other day and the when the gauge stated 70c the hoses were reading between 48-60c but the digital thermometer was a cheap one (£8) so i will allow for some inaccuracies. The gunk still appears but like i said no visible signs of oil in coolant tank and no loss of oil, could this just be a dodgy thermostat sticking in the open position? i think i should at least try new thermostat, but like i said on ebay it seems they are the cheap ones.where is best to get a genuine one?

ok deciding to try and replace the thermostat just wanted to know with so many on ebay and hearing about cheap ones just breaking quickly does anyone recommend a good thermostat. seen ones for around £10-15, also the small amount of sludge again on oil cap after about 20-25 miles, car still seems to be running fine but temp gauge still very slow to rise, still no visible sign of oil in coolant, oil and coolant level seem ok.

hi thanks all for the info i will check the coolant and the cap in another 20-30miles, and let you know what i find, there is a thermostat and it looks pretty new, but ive heard that cheap ones can fail. All the hoses look new and new radiator. the day the temp gauge went up to 70 all hoses seemed to be at the same temperature. I will keep you posted really hope it isn't anything serious, changing a thermostat i can live with and do myself.

hey sorry for the delay, been mega busy. I did as above mentioned, i left the car to run for 7 mins and still the gauge didnt move, but the other day i took it for a longer drive say 8-10miles and the temperature gauge did rise to 70. but today i decided to check things over and to my horror i removed the oil cap and found this . The car has had loads done to it, by previous owner and i dont really want to spend much money on it, the coolant hasn't really dropped, and no white smoke, is it worth using the steel seal or K seal on this ?

Hi thanks for the advice i will check what you mentioned. The mechanic who sold the car said the fan kicks in around 110c. A bit about the car, its has done 116,500 miles, it has full service history, it was done by Skoda dealership up to 114,000, then by the classic car mechanic recently, in the past 5 months it has had the following done, full service, timing belt changed, new rear section exhaust, new radiator, new thermostat, new fan, new starter motor, new front shock, new front brakes, new clutch kit, and the hoses all look new, and the car passed an MOT last month, this was all done by the classic car mechanic who owned the car before me. I just bought the car a week ago. I will let you know what i find.

Hi wonder if people can help, just bought a Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPI GLXi on 1999 plate. It was previously owned by a classic car restorer/mech. I noticed not that long after buying it the temperature gauge does seem to move. The day i bought it, it took a very long time for it to rise and only after about 10 miles of driving and the car seem to driving fine. The radiator, Fan, Thermostat, is new and was replaced in the last few months. I plan to drive the car 400+ miles in a few months time and a little concerned that the gauge isnt working. I drove the car fairly briskly for about 3-5 miles and the engine wasn't that hot(warm) i.e i could touch it no problem, i have owned other small engine cars and normally after this short distance the engine is a lot hotter. Can you tell me if i have anything to worry about or is this normal? and what issue i am likely facing with the gauge? and one other problem i have is the brakes dont seem to be that responsive and the pedal has to pushed quite far down for the brakes to be effective, the front brakes apparently have just been done, could the back brakes need adjusting?