ah29

Not sure if this is normal. Car is 6 speed diesel with 110k miles. Gear lever has a lot of play when in gear. Only recently realised after comparing to a T5 van very similar mileage but obviously very different gear box but would have thought should be of similar feeling considering they are both VW gear boxes. Any info would be great. Thanks.

Hi, Had another look at this today. Found the locking screw through the little plugged hole. After some wd40 got the screw moving. It was fully tightened to begin with but turned it about 10 turns only then tightened it up again. However, BEFORE I started anything I found the piece of metal in the attached images loose inside when I pulled out the end cap thing. Luckily it hadn't, by some miracle, fallen down inside the door. Does ANYBODY know what it is/does. It must be something to do with this loose end cap. Thanks for any help.

Hi, Car is an estate. Door is rear passenger L/H side. Please see the attached image. The end cap circled in red keeps trying to work its way out. I was hoping there was a screw inside the door edge but doesn't appear to be. Has anybody any ideas why this is happening? Worried I'm going to forget to keep checking and it falls out! Thanks for any help.

If your car has self levelling headlights make sure you mechanically disconnect the axle level sensor. Getting the rear spring out on that side of the axle will require more travel than the sensor will allow if not disconnected.

I get this same problem with my 2010 L&K on the drivers side. I get seat belt warning plus the electric adjustment to move seat forwards or backwards will only move the seat towards the steering wheel even if moving away from the steering wheel is selected. It seems to be a bad connection with one of the connectors under the drivers seat. If I "exercise" these connectors the fault will clear. This spring / summer I'm going to take the drivers seat out so I can see if there is any corrosion on the plugs pins / sockets.

That's not the egr valve, that's the throttle body which is part of the utter pain in the @rse egr system. The egr valve is almost totally inaccessible on the rear side of the engine. I had all this headache for a second time very recently! Fix for me was to clean all that cr@p from the throttle body, get the ecu software rolled back to pre emissions scandal software and fit a egr valve defeat device from a company called tafmet in Poland, therefore completely removing the egr valve operation. All cost around £360 which is cheaper than getting the egr valve replaced at a garage. I'm a fairly competent diyer but replacing the egr valve is quite an involved job! Hope this is of some use. J.R. was very helpful with info on this and might give you some advice as well?

Cheers JR. Could you tell me the part number or send us a link for the tool. Been looking and seems to be 31 or 33 teeth tools available. I'm guessing it'll be the size 50 torx 6 point rather than the 12 point splined bit? Thanks.

Hi, Car is Octavia 2011 2.0tdi post facelift. Alternator is making a clattering sound when engine idling so I'm assuming the overrun clutch is/has failed. Car has now done 100k so rather than replace the clutch (which would mean buying some special tools of course) I want to replace the complete alterator. Is it a fairly straight forward job? Haynes manual mentions putting the lock carrier into the service position? The car has aircon, so the pump has to be moved out of the way? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks very much.

It looks oem. So hopefully with 12 months of under bonnet sh!t, it'll look like it's always been there 🤞! Looking forward to no more fretting over blocked throttle or egr valves.

Fitted the Tafmet egr cheat device and all seems okay 🤞. Took car for 70 mph dash down the local dual carriage way and no eml's so that's good! Hopefully is all hidden well enough underneath the air intake box.

V/late thread but thanks to this, mirrors folding again. Battery hadn't been disconnected though? Lost its memory some how?

£195 with vat already added. Not too bad. For a power increase would cost £100 more. 140 bhp is enough for me plus didn't fancy the possible increase in insurance costs. The roll back was done at Celtic Tuning. Luckily don't live to far from Newquay.

Got the rollback done this week. So car is now on 140hp pre emissions scandal software so should do much fewer regenerations. The tafmet emulator has now arrived. So next step is to fit that so it looks untampered. Got mot middle of this month so tempted to leave till after that, then it gives 12 months for the new connector on the maf to " weather in" a bit.

Hi JR, Thanks again for all your help. It's been much appreciated.

I had this a while ago, it would come and go. Had the wheels rebalanced as one of the weights had fallen of and that fixed it. So might be that?

Hi JR, Could I please ask you to check this link and confirm for me this is the correct emulator? https://tafmet.pl/english/search?controller=search&s=CFHC+egr+emulator Pretty sure it is, but would be nice if somebody else could just confirm it. I'm hoping going direct to the supplier will avoid the £500 postage🤞. Thanks so much for your help.

JR, Cheers for all your help.

Hi JR, Sorry to keep bothering you. Did you fit the emulator yourself and if so how fiddly was it. I'm a fairly competent person but obviously the egr valve is a real pain to get access to hence why I left the egr valve replacement I had done fairly recently to a garage!

Hi JR, Is the attached screenshot the emulator you have fitted to your engine? Any idea what the difference between the two kits are? I'm guessing one is if the valve is defective and is stuck in a position and the other is if the valve is still operating correctly? Sorry for pestering.

That's fantastic. Thanks for your help and advice.

Hi JR, Any chance you could post a link to the simulator. I've found only one so far for around £150 or so but a £500 postage charge from Poland! Was it fairly easy to install the simulator? Thanks for your info so far by the way.

Hi, Car has the CFHC engine. I've had to clean out the throttle body twice in the past 18 months and replace (by a garage) the EGR valve about 12 months ago. Car has had the emissions software done which, from what I understand, makes these two things block up much more often? My question is, can the EGR valve be deleted in such a way that the DPF regens will still happen? Also is there anyway of reversing the emissions software upgrade (I use the word upgrade very much with tongue in cheek!)? Thanks for any info you can give me.