suboilbib

These companies have specific dealers that they use to fulfil orders. However, I recently got a quote for a new VW Tiguan from them and took it to my local dealer. While they couldn't quite match the 11% discount offered by the online sellers, they were able to give a 10% discount and I get to deal directly with my local dealer. Its worth a try!

On my old 54 plate 1.6 FSi Octavia Elegance: - Ashtray (would not close) - Centre console top storage box (chrome flaked off) - Cigarette lighter (broken trim on purhcase) - Catalytic convertor ( knackered after less than 40,000 miles) - Windcreen (de-laminating) - Rear windscreen wiper motor (failed) - Rear quarter window seals (whistling) - Windscreen demister vents (noisy) - Probably more that I can't remeber... On my current 57 plate 2.0 TDi Octavia vRS: - Nothing! (except for the injector recall)

Hi. You are right - there are two servicing options. The first is 'standard' servicing which is done on a mileage interval. The second is 'variable' servicing where sensors in the engine decide when the car requires servicing depending on oil quality, etc. I believe the maximum interval is 18000 miles or 2 years, but someone else may know better. Hope this helps.

If it's the PD you're talking about then the only way I've managed to do it is to push the wiring loom above it to one side and then lift the housing cap up far enough to get my other hand in to separate the cap from the filter element. Once that happens it is easy to manouvere the cap out of the way and remove the element completely. Replacing is then the reverse operation. Hope this helps!

My rear pads needed changing at around 80k but the discs still have plenty of wear in them. I changed the front discs and pads about a month ago at just shy of 88k.

Does this seem to happen when you have your aircon on? Might be worth opening the bonnet and checking if both fans are running or just the one. I had to replace my aircon (smaller) fan last year as it had failed, but the failure meant that the larger radiator fan was running permanently when the engine was on. I think I have also seen something on here to do with faulty switches that can cause the problem.

I too would be interested in people's opinions on this as the lacqueur has started peeling off my spoiler over the last 3 - 4 weeks.

I'd be interested in possibly trying the orange ones on my hatch, depending on price of course.

Thanks for the suggestion. However,the fuel filter was changed as part of the service I carried out. Unless the seal is knackered (I'm pretty confident it isn't) then I don't think its that.

Hi. Sorry to resurrect an old thread like this. I was just wondering if anyone actually found a solution to this problem? I gave my 57 plate Octy a major service at the same time as it had the injectors replaced by Skoda CS. Ever since then it has had the same symptoms as those reported earlier in this thread when the weather is cold. I am not sure if it may have anything to do with it but when my car was having the injectors changed the dealer reported that they had had some difficulty in bleeding the fuel system.

Hi all, I'm looking into purchasing a genuine Ross-Tesch HEX-CAN-USB cable, and was wondering if there was any advice from those who already own one/have looked into buying one as to where the cheapest place to get one is? The lead seems to be cheapest from their own site but the shipping is extortionate, and the UK distributors seem to have heavily inflated prices. Also, anyone got any feedback as to what the reliability of the sources is like? Any help/advice/points in the right direction would be most appreciated. Thanks.

I got mine a few weeks after my 22nd birthday, and I don't regret it!

The knee panel is the large panel under the steering column that goes all the way from knee height to the vents in the footwell. You get acces to the screws by removing the fuse cover (there are a couple of screws behind this), and also removing the two silver bits of trim either side of the steering wheel. The trim on the right is removed by first removing and disconnecting the headlight switch, and then prizing away the silver strip with a flat tool such as a screwdriver or knife. The piece on the left of the steering wheel just requires prizing away using a screwdriver. They are both held in with a couple of metal clips if I remember correctly. There are a couple of screws at the bottom of the panel too which don't have covers on. Once all the screws are removed you may still need to give the top of the panel a bit of a tug outwards as there are some tabs at the top of the panel that hold it in position even after screws are removed.

Just to clarify, the 1.6FSi definitely does use spark plugs because I changed them myself at 40k for some Denso aftermarket ones.

Whenever my air-con smells damp I run it on full while squirting dettol in through the air intake below the windscreen. The car smells like a hospital for a while then goes back to normal (i.e. fresh) Probably not the best way but is certainly cheap and easy. When I've changed the pollen filter before its always smelled much cleaner though

I had the cat changed under warranty when it went on my Octy. The cost on the sheet was around the £1300 mark all in because they replaced something else along with it. Apparently it is something thats fairly common on the Mk II (according to the stealer that is)

Thanks Al, I look forward to the test results on the Skoda text. As I said, I'll try and measure up the other footrest tomorrow as long as the rain has stopped. Cheers

I've ordered one from the ebay seller in the UK - just waiting for it to arrive now

Stu, Any chance of having the Skoda text on the seat inserts then? http://www.eoq2007.com/Text/Soubory/logo_skoda.jpg (as in picture - just the 'Skoda' text on the right hand side) I'll measure up the RH footrest once the rain stops...

Hi Stu. I'd like an undrilled plain footrest to match the Skoda stainless pedals, and seat handle covers with the 'OCTAVIA' logo (same text as shown in Skoda Octavia II - seat handle OCTAVIA badge : Skoda Tuning = superskoda.com but I think it would look better cut all the way through). Also, can Al make footrest covers for the right hand side? Everywhere I look seems to either be LHD or doesn't match the Skoda pedal set.

Any news on a group buy yet? I really want one of these but it would have to be a Skoda branded version. Four other people out there like me?

Hi, I am looking to replace the 16" Vega alloys on my Elegance with something a big bigger. Could anyone tell me the offset for the Skoda 17" and 18" wheels (would really like 18's) before I go and buy omething that doesn't fit? Also, can anyone confirm the total depth of the rear brake discs on the 1.6FSi (255mm)? I ordered new discs from EBC but the ones that came appear to be around 5mm too deep and they do not have anything in the size that I am telling them. The depth i need is from the front of the disc (where the hub meets the wheel) to the rear of the disc itself. I make mine 45mm but apparently VAG only do 50mm...This leaves me with a set of discs that cannot be fitted. All help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hi. My car is out of warranty but this seems to be the noise I have complained of for a few months (just after warranty expired luck would have it). Does anyone have a guide for a DIY fix? The noise is rather irritating and often turns heads for all the wrong reasons when driving slowly through town.

Had mine replaced no problem around a year ago under warranty when the car was 2.5 years old and the band was around 5mm wide at the bottom of the windscreen.

Hi, I am looking to colour code the bumper/door inserts on my Octy. Looking at the parts available though, there appear to be 3 types - B, C and the ones from the vRS. Does anyone here know if the vRS ones will fit an Elegance? I only ask as it would mean less work as they come pre-primes ready for painting so all I'd need to do is sand the bumper inserts down and prime them. If they don't then can anyone tell me the difference between 'B' and 'C' as I don't want to order the wrong ones. And finally can anyone please confirm that its just a hard pull to remove the current insets from the car? I don't want any horrible surprises! Thanks in advance