tonysandberg

Car is sold, some parts for sale. Salethread comming...

Might be a bit easier to adjust vnt screw and actuator with this.

Allright, you used group 4 on basic settings? I thought it was group 11?

How the hell did you get access to the screw? I cant even see it with out getting under the car... Im located in Västerås!

Anyone got any tips on adjusting vnt actuator and stopscrew? its a bit hard to get to with out taking off a lot of piping or burning on the exhaust...

There is nothing on the turbo housing? sometimes supplier replaces marking sign.

still oemhose there, will put the reducer as you mention 51-57mm silicone hose when replacing the plasticpipe with an aluminium pipe. Do you mean your turbo is a hybrid or original kkk bv39?

you can adjust alot in software like lowering fuel amount and adjusting the n75 map to open the vnt more at spikes but this is such a big spike I want tohave the hardware in order feels better than using software to compensate something that is not ccrrect hardware wise. It is not something i think is a sustainable way of building on a car. Yes, very big difference in power but looking back at it the turbo that broke probably was bad/missing blades the whole time. but it will only get better with adjusting. my planned boost is 1.6bar or 2600mbar(absolute) there is possibility for more on this turbo but i want to keep it safe. and as mentioned above i get spikes above 3000mbars

So the car is back on the road, only thing left now is to adjust stop screw and the vnt actuator, i get boost late and to much, it spikes above readable values for my 3bar map sensor. Been in contact with supplier and got some advice in what to do. I got a new remap adjusted for this turbo from "ak-tuning" wich theoreticly gives 191 bhp and 478nm, there will be more when gearbox/clutch,flywheel issues are corrected I might just load an ABT remap that is safe and run it over the winter and then bring it to the dyno for my goal of 200bhp and 500nm in springtime. But for now, this is alot of power! i am taking it really easy when comuting now, keeping it below 2500rpm to make sure i dont spike anymore before adjusting.

where did you get the badges? really like the look of the car!

I have gotten answers for both questions by myslef with a bit of google.... 1. Diagnostic limit is for some reason set in my map at this level, will try to modify this by following a thread by a member here but on another forum. 2. This works but you need a long probe ( 4-5") to reach the flow of exhaust gas this way, but it is a bad idea because long probes tend to brake off due to vibrations and go in to turbo/engine... will consult with my tuner if I really need one on my level.

On the old picture you found it looks almost candy red... really nice! I like the look with the steelies.

two questions! 1.Does anyone know if the org 3bar map sensor on the BLT will only read up to 1.55bars(2.55 atm) 2. do you think placing an egt sensor in the egr cover at the exhaust manifold will work?

Done today: 1. intercooler piping completed and a few joints removed. 2. Mixed and fiiled coolant 3. replaced rear hr springs 4. "adjusted" the exhaust hangers 5. tried the xenon headlights left one was badly repaired before so I will try to change the housing with the one from the halogen one I have on. right one had a broken bulb but works otherwise. Left to do: 1. Fill oil 2. mount aixbox and tip pipe 3. pull the starter a few turns with the injectors not plugged in so a get oil to the turbo. 4. Official startup! And here is the pic that didn't make it in....

Just to use and oven or what? would a heatgun work?