FanTsang

Forget about the item! Just realised the postage cost...!

What about this in Ebay? It's a 245i badge, but don't stick on the 'i' part.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133533110655?hash=item1f1731917f:g:9rUAAOSw5eBfbEIP

I had the same problem when I removed the Amundsen head unit from my Octavia to put into my wife's Fabia. I couldn't find the code anywhere. I contacted the dealer and provided the car registration and was able to look it up. It has to be the car registration that it was fitted at factory...

I had seen the tyre sitting upright on top of the centre of the wheel. The damage would have been caused when the tyre is being rotated (upright) on top of the wheel. I very recently had a rear puncture repaired by a local tyre place and observed them rotating the upright tyre on top of the wheel. When I got home there were scuffs and scratches on the centre part of the wheel, not as much as the one in the photos. I got them them to buff/polish it out and was fine...

I had brought my car down to Quick Fit (local tyre place closes early on Saturdays) to get a big puncture repaired and due to the size of the hole, a new tyre was required, at the beginning of the year. I had notice scratches on the central area of the wheel and as you can see from the photos, are noticeable. I subsequently got another set a few months later (so all 4 have been replaced). However, I'm not the type to complain and tried to put up with it, but ended up going back to them over the weekend. The manager, who was pleasant those times, was very condescending, dismissive, belittling and really insulted my intelligence when I explained that the guy who had looked at the puncture had caused this by setting the tyre upright on the wheel and was rotating it around, causing the scratching. He proceeded to show me the equipment (yeah - seen enough of the those over my decades of motoring) and said that it can't be, as the rubber can't cause the scratches! Yeah - right! With grit on it it's like sandpaper. I wonder if he'd agree that it's smooth if I rotated one on his face? It would probably have been fine and not noticeable if the wheels were silver, but black shows up everything. Anybody else experienced this with black alloys with a tyre place? I believe that every tyre shop sets the tyre on top of the wheel for a number of reasons; 1) There is nowhere else to set it and it's more convenient. 2) It's at the right height to work on, when the tyre is upright. 3) It's likely to stay centred on the wheel, and not roll off. 4) You cannot work the tyre comfortably, when it's on it's side and won't stay steady on wheel. Do you agree with me? I'm not looking for financial settlement, just for the wheel to be buffed/polished to remove the scratches and it doesn't matter about the time I have taken to report it, as it doesn't change the fact that they were responsible for it and that they had a duty of care. It was obvious that it wasn't intentional and the guy replacing it most likely wasn't aware that he had caused it, as it only after the car was washed, it became evident...

BTW - the VAG Bluetooth module is expensive, but more affordable when bought 2nd hand on ebay, but is the best solution.

I have a VRS Blackline that came with that. It doesn't have Bluetooth and you will need the VAG Bluetooth module and will need wired in to the mic hole beside the courtesy light unit. Will probably also need it enabled in VCDS. I removed mine and put in into my wife's Fabia and I moved got my Columbus unit transferred over from my old VRS, along with the VAG bluetooth unit.

I've mine declared, but is more pricier, but you do have the peace of mind, knowing that you'll be covered in an accident. You may be a careful driver, but there's others out there who aren't! Some insurers won't provide a quote, if it's got over 40% gain in power and the insurance companies are very few. They will also pass it to their underwriters for a quotation. You can try pricing with Adrian Flux, which is mentioned in this forum and is where I went to for cover after modifications.

There are stuff on ebay. However, if it's not original, the rear reflector will probably look different. It's not that expensive, compared to the genuine, so you could probably replace it as a pair.... What about a breaker's yard? Some of these places, may well have all that you're looking for.

I have a K&N cold air induction kit and had run it with the cover off on my Octavia Mk2 FL VRS TDI. The whooshing noise under acceleration is loud and sounds sporty. However, when you suddenly lift off the throttle you hear that noise that sounds like a dump valve and is normal. It's more evident when accelerating in a high gear, like 5th, then lift off the throttle.... I've now got the cover put back on and have the original air scoop modified so that it diverts more air into the connected hose intake to the box and works well.

Sunday mornings aren't great for me - not because I get drunk the night before and nursing a hangover, it's because I do the sound desk and lighting for our Church in Banbridge... Would love to attend...

I got mine from SuperSkoda, in Magic Black, which happens to be an exact match for my wheels, which is Magic Black, as the original chrome surround looks a bit out of place and dated... I too, had asked about getting it vinyl wrapped or plasti-dipped, but didn't fancy the chrome showing when stone chipped. Plus no worries about the vinyl peeling off. The grille surround from SuperSkoda is excellent quality, fit is perfect and would recommend it. I would also recommend getting a new badge at the same time, as it is difficult enough getting the original badge off the chrome one, as the double-sided glue pad is super-sticky!

I got the magic black grille surround to replace the chrome one and to match the magic black alloys. The quality is excellent and fits great! I've got other stuff from them too, such as seat badges, LED interior lights - no complaints about their service or the products that I got off them.

I got mine from SuperSkoda and was already painted in Black Magic (same colour as my alloy wheels). Saved all the hassle and you can keep the Chrome one intact as a spare. Remember to order a badge, or the have another one, with the new MK3 badge already on. I opted to remove mine and put onto the black one, but wished I had just got a badge at the same time, as it was difficult enough to remove!! Octavia II Facelift 09-13 - grille frame painted in MAGIC BLACK (F9R)

I don't do much motorway driving and I had issues with my 2008 PD170 VRS, so when I got a newer 2013 CR170 VRS, I got the DPF gutted and EGR blanked off, in addition to remapping it to 210BPH. With K&N Air Induction Kit and BP Ultimate Diesel, DPF gut out and EGR removal it would have boosted to 220BHP (or possibly more). It's got tons of power on tap and is night and day in performance, whilst giving a very smooth drive. Downside is trying to get car insurance! Stock VRS would have been £333 for year, but a lot of Insurance companies had ruled remapping out straight off. Some did, but my remap had well exceeded their increase limits.... Adrian Flux was able to get the cheapest at £460. However, with no more DPF clogging issues and a smoother drive, it's well worth the extra cost.

It could well be a faulty Hard Disk Drive, which is inside the unit, used for the system, media and navigation files. It should operate like a computer, where it would boot up from the drive for the system and a faulty, or corrupted one can cause it to reboot, or hang, as it has problems trying to read from the drive.... The first RNS510 that I bought from eBay was stuck on the logo and rebooted. I was able to hear the sound from the drive to know it was abnormal (having worked on PCs, laptops, PS3s doing something similar). As it was faulty out of the box it was returned back to the seller and got a working replacement RNS510 unit.

I had a PD170 that done that and was hesitant when trying to take off and got in a few hairy moments when trying to pull out in front of traffic! Was fine when the turbo kicked in at 2/2.5K RPM. For me, it was the DPF starting to clog up and was usually confirmed with a lumpy idle and idled at 1,000 rpm, instead of the 750 rpm. DPF light wasn't on, but had to do an early DPF regeneration, by driving in 3rd gear for while (didn't do much motorway driving), plug remapped accelerated the DPF clogging issue. As the others say, it could also be the EGR. I've changed my car to a CR170 and had the DPF gutted and EGR deleted, so don't have that issue now.

I wouldn't bother with an EGR delete pipe, just a blanking plate would be better. Be sure to use instant gasket (silicone sealant), other some smoke may escape and blacken around the plate. I have my DPF gutted out too. I've also replaced the stock air filter assembly and replaced with a K&N filter induction kit. I also run the car on BP Ultimate Diesel for better performance. Altogether, it's 220+ BHP and is very responsive, smooth and acceleration is really quick!

Hey - I'm the same on mine. Had the glove compartment out too and can't find anything that may be causing it to rattle. It only rattles sometimes when the engine is ticking over, but not when moving... It's annoying at times, but I try not to let it annoy me...

Finally got the engine cover back again! The tuner was back from his holidays. Makes a lot of difference.... https://flic.kr/p/KBineh

I was originally looking 2nd set to make modification and can revert back to original if selling car, or made a mess of it, otherwise no lights for driving....

My K&N Induction kit fitted with pipe going into the air intake; https://www.flickr.com/photos/133505855@N06/28485867522/in/album-72157671640174295/ I used a hacksaw to free the sides of the air scoop, used a heat gun to soften the air scoop and pushed down, so that it catches more of the air; https://www.flickr.com/photos/133505855@N06/28485874932/in/album-72157671640174295/ The view into the air intake. You can now see a lot more of the air scoop, which should help with the airflow; https://www.flickr.com/photos/133505855@N06/28485870742/in/album-72157671640174295/

I've the same filter on mine. Where did you site your intake hose? I've mine linked back to original air intake, but with the air scoop heated and pushed down further to catch more of the air.

Yes, the original air intake seems to let most of the air rush underneath, past the main air scoop. I've fitted a K&N induction kit and routed the hose into this intake. To scoop in more air into the hose, I've used a hacksaw to cut the sides of the scoop, used a heat gun to soften the plastic at the bend, then forced the scoop down, making it straighter, then ran cold water to cool it down to 'set' it in place. The intake was removed first, of course... Now when you look through the front of the intake, the air scoop is in view and catching a lot more air, which then channels it to the pipe at the side. I forgot to take pictures when I was doing it... I'm going to try to modify a bit more to catch more of the air, possibly by adding a bit more plastic to extend the air scoop in some way.

Yes, getting black l/hand headlights and had thought it may just slide out. The cutting may still be a viable option, as it's less messy than baking headlights to remove lens. I think that I should have got the 2nd hand units from a member here, remove the lens and spray it black myself .... and cheaper! Many thanks for the reply to the guide - wouldn't have spotted it myself!