lhlied

Oh wow. In Norway the prices from the dealer was 482nok = 34,5 pounds..! Though thats 3+13 a total av 6 bolts. Seems UK is much cheaper on original parts.

In my meike kit the bolts number 18 in the photo did follow the kit, but the bolts nr 3 did not follow the kit. Guess I'll buy them at the dealer. From experience these kind of bolts usually ain't that expensive.

Hi. I'm in the middle of changing rear disc brakes and pads on my mk3 octavia 4x4 150bhp. I was dumb enough to belive in a youtube tip of where they say its not needed to remove the two (per side) xzn-bolts. The caliper is possible to slide off without removing. Sounds tempting, and might work on some models, but it for sure didn't work on my 150bhp 4x4 model. So I had to try to remove these two bolts (image number 3). They were really stuck so my zxn 14mm tool that I had with 3/8" was not enough. Didn't get enough power. Bought a zxn 14mm that had 1/2" connectivity. Tried a could of options before I was able to use a bended slidable weelnut bolt 1/2" arm and the zxn M14 with my feets to get enough force. My 450NM Impact wrench wasnt powerful enough, or I didn't let it work long enough, though worked late and didn't want to make too much sounds. Though since 've released two so far I guess I should be able to get all four soon. So the question: Do I need to change or should I change bolts? I've check the manual and it says replace 3, so I guess I'm answering my own question. But what happens if I try to reuse the old once? They look fine.

Super thanks for feedback and comments. My hope is that the car will be a good car again. I think the problem stared after one of the springs broke (around a year+ ago). I replaced suspension+spiring front both sides, and swaybar-link. Though I think there was my mistake when I worked with the swaybar.link. Didn't counterhold (at first didn't know, didn't understood how to do it). This time I've changed the swaybar-link using correct tools and counterhold. Though don't have a torque wrench that has the possible to counterhold, but still by feel it should be possible to fasten it well enough I guess. The car has always had a sound doing reverse and changing the wheels from full side to another side. Might be cv-joint? But I was hoping that now since I have replaced everything that is suspensionrelated in the front of the car I have a good driveable car again. I think the insulation / noise reduction that I need to verify where I removed it could be inside the car where the pedals are located. I did pull out the stuff there to be able to reach the steering connected to the steering rod. Just felt that it didn't fit there. But I'll investigate furter by checking on the passenger side to see how it looks there to try to figure out how it should be. Hope to be soon done. It's taken rather much time this operation. But working outside in winter, ice, show, rain and windy condition lets say its suboptimal. Would have been done much quicker if I had a garage indoor to work.

Once I leveled out / put everything back to normal the difference of the cv-shaft to the sway link got reduced to beeing around the same on both sides. New question: Does anybody have a clue where this insulation / noise reduction part should be on the car?

Another question, less than a year ago I installed new suspension and new springs. Right now the subframe is installed, wishbone / track control arm is still not install thus removed. Suspension is then mounted in the top bolts and in the cv-coint. I do however see that there is a difference in the distance from the suspension to the sway-bar. On passenger side the sway bar is touching the suspension. On driver side there is a gap of around 1cm or so. Could it be that the suspension on the passenger side is not correct mounted / pulled together?

Update: Today I've installed the swaybar and got the subframe and steering rack back up again. Nearly done with working with the subframe. I've forgot about the fact that skoda/vag really likes to use strechbolts for everything. In the manual nearly if not all bolts I've removed in noted in the manual that they have to be replaced. So I will probably be ordering tomorrow from the dealer all necessarily bolts to pull it back together. Might not be necessarily(?) but I assume it should be done. I don't think the alignment of the subframe will end in a disaster since the old markings of where the subframe was attached are very visible. Should be possible to align it close to where it used to be by just by fitting by eye as mentioned above, even for an amateur like me.

I didn't understood before I read the last posts here that the alignment tool is not a alignment tool, but at tool to get it back to the previous state. So in my shoes that leads to that the tool is useless as of now since I didn't use it before I pulled the subframe down. I'm curious to see how far off and how bad it will be when I pull this back again to see how it aligns up. That said I was planning to let the professional paid garage do the (wheeel) alignment, but didn't realise before I started this job that the subframe is a vital part of the alignment and that I should have taken action before I lowered it to be able to get it back into position. Now I know, just a litte loo late, however I'm still thankful for the postes here that give me more knowledge. I'll try to use the marks from the original fitting by eye to pull it together hopefully close enough to get the car drivable. Today I've collected the new sway bar from the dealer and are planning to start to pull it together this evening.

Impressive to do a wheel alignment DIY. Thanks for posting and comments. No, I was not smart or experienced enough to mark anything regarding the alignment. I'm still planning to get a wheel alignment done (or in general alignment) after all is done. I'll try to update here as well when I know more of what and why. The alignment tool google and the work manual I've found is T10486/1, fairly inexpensive even at the dealer. I've been told from the dealership that the anti rollbar exists in two versions (and different thicknesses) with or without glued bushings. Though glue is not the correct word. The bushing is something like melted to the iron. It really sticks very good to it. From what I know now the sway bar link was probably ok, and not needed for a change. Also the dealership told me that its not a common part to change. So for the one out there with ratteling consider to change everything else in the suspension like wishbone and sway bar links before you'll attempt the sway bar. Its much more time consuming and tricky since the subframe has to be lowered. On the positive side it is possible to do even at the driveway with jackstands since I've done it, or at least done half of the job, removed it. Btw Borsehung B10809 was the part I ordered that had stamped Ø 21,7mm on the side of it, so I didn't attempt to try use it on my sway bar that is close to 24mm. My car: 2014 mk3 octavia 2.0 tdi 4x4 150bhp. I'll try to update my findings on my way back to a hopefully drivable car. One this is to dismantle, another is to pull it back in working order... I'm curios to see what the outcome of all of this operation will be. Will I fix the rattle issue, not be able to pull it back together, get new faults? we'll see. Here the info on how to do alignment of the subframe, but it seems the vw golf edition of the manual explain this in more details.

i was anyway planning to get a wheel-alignment done professionaly, but what happens if I pull it together and not aligned, they probably gave to fix the aligenment of the subframe as part of the wheel-alignment I guess?

Hi. My car (octavia mk3 2014 2.0 tdi) have had a rackeling sound from the front running over bumps. Its by far worst if the car his a obstacle only on one side. Service told I should switch sway bar bushings and MOT-test (the norwegian one) told that I should change the sway bar links. So to pass MOT I started to work. Maybe a little too much. I'm now at the point of where the subframe is down, the bushings I ordered seems to be wrong, even though I ordered by chassisnumber of the car from a internet company that I believe is a very well known german company that supplies parts / third party parts. So the things I'm wonderings of: Is the sway bar bushings something that is sort of common to be replaced? They was glued to the sway bay, and very tricky to remove. My guess is that they were ok in the end and not needed to change, but I'm unsure. I'm anyway now at point of no return. What happes if I pull it together without using the alignment tool ( T10486/1 ) for the subframe? Witch I do not have. I've bought new wishbone arms, and new sway bar links as well as the wrong bushing for the sway bar ( I have a close to 24mm sway bar the bushing was marked 21.8mm). I'm planning to just buy the sway bar at the local dealer and hope that the delivery of that aint too bad. If that goes well I'll pull it together with new wishbone, swaybar links, and anti roll bar and hope that har cured the ratteling (and a pass of the mot). the uncool part is that I feel I havn't found anything that was not as it should talking everything apart so far, but I'm a youtube mecanic and not a skilled mechanic. Have anyone else successfully change the sway bar and dit it solve the ratteling?

Hi. I have a Columbus in a Octavia from 2013/2014 that works as it should. No errors as far as I know. Looks like the software is a bit dated though. Are there any improvements in the newer firmware editions, and is it worth updating if there are any newer for my head unit? I'm downloading new maps from vw (discovery pro) as we speak that is dated 23.11.2020. New maps is always good since the speed sign recognition then works more precise.