acme15

Err, I hammerfisted the top of the steering column and it fixed it, however jolts make it stop/start working... lol Looks like I'll have to strip it down and replace the switch in there. :(

Hi all, So today I had the joy of putting the Slowda up a grass bank to avoid some numpty who was on the wrong side of the road on a blind corner, the shock of the impact has killed all of the headlights! Fuses look OK, I don't think it is fuse related anyway... Read on: Dipped beam doesn't work with headlight switch Main beam doesn't work when switching to them with the stalk (pushing it away from you) Headlight adjuster motors aren't working Tell-tale in the cluster doesn't illuminate Sidelights and front foglights DO work Main beams DO illuminate when flashing them with the stalk (pulling it towards you) Is there a relay somewhere or something which is likely to have blown / plug which might have come out / something else? Thanks

Well I've done nearly 1000 miles since changing it now and it seems to be fine still. Hopefully it stays that way!

Thanks, gonna have to withdraw interest for the time being, do lots of motorway miles in the wet and those tyres don't seem to be best suited to that!

Thanks for the advice. I'll try this way first: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=234251 Then take it out if I need to. Also to add, the weird squealing noise hasn't happened again yet either, it used to do it every day without fail. The clicking noise has stopped too as mentioned, and the tensioner rattling has as well. There is visible vibration on the lower part of the new tensioner, but it looks fairly normal? It certainly isn't rattling around like the old one did. I'm guessing it won't ever be totally still due to how it works. Just trying to figure out if there is actually anything up with the alternator pulley, but I guess the only way to be sure is to check properly. At a guess... Around 60K ago, maybe more. Some of the service history is in (I think) Hungarian.

What am I keeping an eye out for? If the pulley is an easy job I might just do it anyway to be on the safe side. e; looks like an easy job, belt off again, and basically swap the pulley from the top... Will order one now... e2; Ahh damnit, which pulley do I need? :( This one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-9-SDI-TDI-ALTERNATOR-FREE-WHEEL-CLUTCH-PULLEY-1998-2010-/321658867228?hash=item4ae45cce1c:g:viAAAOSwqu9U0LIR

Could you let me know what tyres are fitted please? I can't make out the writing on the sidewalls very well. Two Yokohamas and two Falkens I think? But what model / width etc please? Thanks!

Changed the aux belt and tensioner, the rattling has gone, haven't heard the clicking again yet either... Looks good so far! Old aux belt was in a sorry state with chunks of the ribs missing!!

OK so the clicking noise in the above video seems to happen without AC turned on as well, but gets worse when the AC is turned on. Its coming from the 'aux area' somewhere. Someone suggested that it could be the alternator, and the noise gets worse when the AC is turned on as more strain is put on everything. Now I know the tensioner is worn out and rattles but that is a seperate noise so I think that rules it out. I'm thinking it could be the alternator pulley/freewheel clutch/bearing? The car didn't make the 'other' noise this morning so I haven't had any luck physically locating that one just yet! :(

Will do when I get a chance (tomorrow! ) Took this video when leaving work today, this is how bad the clicking is sometimes. Curiously, no whine this time...

AC controls are normal ones, just have different knobs. I'll start by disconnecting the fan and see what difference that makes. What actually powers on when the AC button is pressed but the engine isn't on? I think the fan does but will double check. What do you think the clicking noise could be? It did it for ages this morning, and louder than in the video, was a little concerning to be honest!

Hi guys, My car has been making an odd noise for a little while now. The screech happens when you press the AC button even with the engine off. Does anything AC related besides the fan on the condenser turn on without the engine being on? Obviously the compressor is belt driven. Then you can hear the clicks after turning the car on, sometimes its worse than this. Think that may be the compressor pulley bearings and/or compressor clutch making the clicking noise? The rattle you hear after the clicking stops (aside from the normal engine rattle) is the tensioner, which is fine, I'm doing that soon, but want to sort this lot out too while I'm at it. After sitting all night in the 'cold': And again after sitting for 8 hours in the warm multi-storey, slightly different/shorter squeal this time, and minimal/no clicking after starting: Anyone have any ideas on this one? I have trawled the net and found no recordings like this! Squealing happens if you turn the engine on straight away too, but I did it like this so you could hear it better. Many thanks!

Sorry to bump an ancient thread, but I am wondering about this because I am interesting in changing my cluster out, and would like the new cluster to display the CORRECT mileage. It is also a MK1 Octavia, but not a VRS. Also the guy who was going on about taking a picture at 90MPH for 90,000 miles and 100MPH for 100,000 miles made me chuckle. My diesel is about to reach 170,000 miles, recon I should give it a go?

So with 110 nozzles it should make 110HP because all other components are the same? Does the 110 not have a slightly different ECU/map? Will it not also reduce my economy, whereas keeping stock nozzles and mapping to 115HP may increase the economy?

150 for just the fly or for fly and a clutch of some description? Im assuming though that 135 with bigger nozzles will cause more stress than 115 with original nozzles, or is that not the case?

Hi guys, me again. Went off the idea of aiming for 180 - 200 when I looked into it and saw how much it would cost in total, so still thinking about the nozzles and remap only. Only thing is, I'm concerned that 135HP from 90HP will knock out my clutch and possibly my turbo as well, the car is on 170,000 miles now. What are peoples thoughts and experiences? If you think it would be too much for the old turbo and clutch I might just do the 115HP map without injector nozzles.

What are the details on the clutch and flywheel, injectors, and springs + shocks? If its not against the forum rules to ask - how much for each? Just out of curiosity at the moment.... What turbo did you run also?

And them yes, sorry. They are included in my plan Though after browsing eBay for a while I'm having dangerous thoughts about chasing 200HP on the cheap with a recon turbo from a 2.0TDI, an eBay FMIC, injectors and mapping... Am I right in thinking that this manifold should just bolt on, as they are very similar with the same flange on 2.0TDI and 1.9TDI blocks? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-Skoda-Seat-2-0D-170HP-125KW-53039700207-53039700137-Turbo-Gaskets-/321876519789?hash=item4af155eb6d:g:JmkAAOSwbYZXWE6v And then... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-FABIA-SUPERB-VRS-ALUMINIUM-FRONT-TURBO-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-CORE-FMIC-/181600103052?hash=item2a4835aa8c:g:a24AAOSwofxUfJzk And bigger injectors... And then a custom decat exhaust, fitting and mapping... Would take me to around £1000 + labour to fit, to get what... 220HP? But then I'd need suspension and brakes, which would add another £400 + labour... Then clutch + fly for about the same again... Which takes me to "may as well just sell it and get something else" territory... Just musing... Best stick to something simple so that it doesn't get out of hand!

OK it is an ALH. So with this kind of mileage, is my idea to push the turbo to 135HP+ not going to be sensible/viable? I guess I should have seen that coming haha. My logic was that if the turbo is the same as on the 110, and if the 110 can be mapped to 135, then my turbo should be able to cope with 135~ as well.

I will think about it and get back to you! Thanks.

Hmm, how do I find out what my engine code is? I know there were two possible ones... Also I Dyno'd it today and its pushing 91.4HP stock.

Hi guys, I have a 2003 (53) Octavia BlueLine with the 90HP 1.9TDI (pre-PD) engine. It is currently on 166,000 miles and haven't had any issues at all. I plan on replacing it in the not-too-distant future, but in the mean time I am looking into mapping. The standard 120HP re-map won't do me, I'm looking for around 140HP. Now, I believe that this should be possible with just larger injectors from a TDI 110, and a re-map, but there is a little confusion over the turbo... I have read that the 90HP engines came with a non-VNT turbo for most of their life (which could restrict me) but the later ones came with a VNT turbo the same as fitted to the 110. Am I right in thinking that mine should have a VNT on a 53 plate? Does this seem achievable/what other options are available to me? Thanks all.