arb

Suspension Overview.doc Hi all, Is there a full decoding / description in plain English of the different suspension PR codes somewhere? Reviewing the suspension components, I ended up gathering all the information I could find into two tables, listing P/N and dimensional data (mostly from Sachs) for the main parts: shock absorbers, coil springs and anti-roll bars (see attached). OEM documentation not being readily available to me, the listed information may be incomplete (1K0511115CH), possibly inconsistent(1K0511115CT) or approximate (suppliers’ “equivalent” references not being always strictly identical to original parts). It still gives a somewhat useful overview though. Decoding the PR numbers would certainly bring further improvement! Thanks!

Hej Dippis, This is the most aggressive stage 1 tuning that I have seen anywhere so far: it may not be my cup of tea though (I am not confortable with exceeding the 350Nm design value of the MQ350 gear box by more than, say, 10%: I know, it's an arbitrary number, but, from my past experience, VAG gearboxes are far from perfect...). Thanks for your input. ARB

Ok: shall also talk with APR and BSR then. Thanks!

Hej, We are currently living in Sollentuna, my wife's hometown, I do read Swedish but my writing is dismal... Have any of you done mechanical mods, e.g. brakes or engine, to your Skoda ? What's the procedure administratively and insurance wise? Thanks! ARB

Thanks, The BMW 325iX was the first generation all-wheel drive car produced by BMW (permanent viscous coupling transferring 37% of the engine power to the front wheels, 63% to the rear). Compared to its contemporary, the Audi Quattro, it enjoyed an almost perfect weight repartition and was definitvely more fun to drive. The 1991 325iX touring (4325mm long 1645mm wide estate body) had a 170hp DIN in-line 6 engine and weighted 1 350kg. ARB

Thank you, Colin, for pointing at the Sweden section. Freedom, for liking my user name: I must say that I am totally innocent since these are my initials actually... but I'll take the automotive connection any time. Indeed, after all these years, I only became aware of this while reading posts on this web-site: we use sway bar in the US and stabilizer in Germany...). ARB

That is the question… Is there a case for challenging the-bigger-the-better paradigm here? The pro’s of big brakes are known. So are the con’s, among them cost and legal (insurance) issues (weight might also be added, a single ready big brake assembly, as listed below, weighting 23.5kg). As already indicated on this forum, it is quite an extensive (read expensive) job to fit 312mm disc brakes on a ZF (280mm) front brake system. For reference purpose, here are the main required part numbers, which are widely available from the VAG stable of car brands (Germany, by the way, being a very good new or used part source on the continent, representing the single largest car market in Europe): Wheel bearing housing 1K0407255AA Left (Achsschenkel) 1K0407256AA Right Wheel bearing set 1T0498621 (Radlager/Stützlager) Brake Caliper carrier 1K0615125C (Bremssattelhalter) Brake Caliper housing 1K0615123E Left (Bremssattel) 1K0615124E Right Brake Disc 1K0615301AA (Bremsscheibe) Brake Pad 3C0698151C (Bremsbelag) [Note: to be checked whether front suspension struts are 55mm (PR-L56) rather than common 50mm]. I did source a “Bremse Umbau kit” (new OEM preassembled big brake set) in Germany but did not mount them at this stage (having not cracked the insurance nut yet). Consequently, I keep wondering: actually, the BMW 325iX touring has 260x22 vented front and 258x18 vented rear disc brakes, or an overall braking power about comparable to the CR110 Yeti. And, personally, I never had issues with the BMW brakes. So, I would really appreciate getting feedback from those hardy folks who actually chipped their engine but kept their 280mm front disc brakes, along with their eventual recommendations for brake discs and brake pads. Best, ARB

Why modding or upgrading? In my case, some reasons seem obvious, some less so, although one can usually find a method to any madness… Obvious 1 – additional protection: it is no coincidence that custom parts are being offered to give additional protection to wheel arches, door sills and rear bumper area. We’ve all noticed that, with time, those areas do take a beating (and there are quite a few dirt roads left in Sweden and Norway, plus long snowy winters…). Solutions: suitable parts are being offered by Skoda and by other manufacturers (Martinek, Milotec, …), with a variety of costs. Obvious 2 – overall engine performance: CR110 might actually be the wrong pick for a 4x4 Yeti (!) if one cares to refer to the performance data available in the Owner’s Manual (having higher fuel consumption and higher exhaust emission than both CR140 and CR170 models): “Economy” might be in the eye of the beholder… In hindsight, this might be explained by the car weight (the Yeti is actually 175kg heavier than my earlier BMW 325iX touring) and by engine technology. CFHC, CFHF and CFJA engines are basically one and same power plant, differing only by the injector unit size (for the detuned CFHF engine) or by the turbo unit size (for the tuned-up CFJA engine), with corresponding ECU software adaptations, of course. So, is the CFHF engine running sub-optimally or was the Yeti actually designed around the CFHC engine, that combination providing some kind of sweet spot? Solutions: chip-tuning the CR110, most likely. While the injector and turbo units will then be asked to do more than their standard duty, for normal driving conditions (touring not racing…), they are still operating comfortably within specifications. Box-tuning has mostly going for it a lower cost and reversibility (which is a desirable mod feature). Whether it is technically as good a solution as remapping, I don’t really know but, for sure, I don’t like the paucity of technical data available in that instance (no direct dyno bench results). Also, here in Sweden, there is at least one long-time established company, with roots in racing engine development, which provides a remapping solution totally owner-reversible (www.bsr.se). Not so obvious – brakes: it will be the subject of a second post… Cheers, ARB

Greetings from Sweden ! Newbie to this forum and to Skoda, so, Newbie². In our continued quest for combining practicality with driving pleasure - which over the years had us run the likes of Volvo 245 or 245turbo estates to BMW 325iX, both sedan and touring, or even a VW T4 Westfalia - my wife and I recently purchased a second-hand 2011 Yeti CR110 M6 4x4 (we actually both preferred the older, less aggressive, design, and I did not particularly care for stop & start or other “modern” add-ons…). The Yeti is undoubtedly a lot of car for the money. I wished though I had known about this great website earlier: I probably could have made a more informed purchase decision then… Having caught up and done my homework since, I got infected by upgraditis in the process… So, I’ll shortly be posting, hopefully sharing the collective wisdom here… Best, Attila