Davemc67

The garage said due to the car standing for 3 months while I was shielding this had seized to the shaft and when I drove it that when it happened when I was trying to get it into gear

I think I was lucky as the flywheel wasn’t damaged either ..ended up costing me £450 all In to get it stripped down and clutch replaced ..god only how much it would have been at the main dealers

Well seems I know know what happened to my clutch . new clutch in and back to normal

What they said was that’s how much it would cost to remove the gearbox to find out what’s wrong, then the cost of parts and then the cost to put it all back together again. like you say breaking it down to maximise profits ive decided to take it else where, and get them to take a look

Sorry Urrell .. got mixed up the £324 was just to remove the gearbox not strip it down

Latest is the Yeti has been in for its service and brake fluid change and they saying that it sounds like the clutch is worn from heavy use £324 to strip the gearbox down, + cost of parts (unknown how much or what’s needed so couldn’t give me a ball park figure) + the cost of putting everything back together probably another £324 now not sure whether to get them to do it seeing as the earliest they can get me booked in is July 12th and no courtesy car as their are none available until 27th July or take it somewhere else

I gave that a try and it doesn’t seem any better .. it will eventually go if you push against the gate really hard its easy to put it in reverse but takes some effort to get it out of reverse

I have a 2017 Yeti and took it out for a long run today after being stood for 7 weeks and getting the car into gear is proving really difficult The issue got worse the further I drove. if the car is stationary with the engine off , I can move through the gears relatively easy. But once the engine is running selecting gears in nigh on impossible. the car was due to go in for a service and brake fluid change at the beginning of April but due to the lockdown and the dealership being closed this is on hold. i have checked brake/clutch fluid level and it looks ok. Anyone have any ideas what else I can check

I had mine activated at my local skoda dealer at the weekend and it cost £145

I don’t think these are the modified leads .. can only see a thicker piece of rubber around the top part of the leads not near heat shield

the car had its major service last July at the main dealer which is when I believe the spark plugs were replaced I will check to see if the lead has ever been upgraded and get it into the skoda dealer to get it checked

Ive only had the car 3 years was bought used from skoda dealer... not sure if it has had the number 3 plug lead modification done ... how can I tell

Over the last week , a couple of times the EPC, Engine symbol and ESP light comes on and the car seems like it’s in limp mode. Just before the lights come on the engine power seems sluggish like it’s misfiring and juddering car is a 62 reg Yeti 1.2 with 63k miles on the clock any advice would be appreciated

Hi muddyjim in the nextbase hardwire kit there are only 2 fuse slots ..one already populated for the dash cam and the other slot for the fuse you removed to plug the piggyback fuse in

Thanks Urrell wasnt sure which were ignition live and which were safe to use. how do I tell which way round is the correct way to enable a fused connection with the nextbase hardwire kit apart from plugging in and then pulling the fuse