dauphin

Yay, it’s working! Strange that when the Bluetooth connection is set up, it seems to default to not sharing contacts without even prompting to ask if you wish to share - my Oneplus phone was exactly the same. Anyway, thanks again mygyl, that was very helpful

Thanks very much. We’d already checked 2 and 3 above, but 1 sounds very promising! Hope to try it later and will report back

I’ve been trying to help my brother set up his phone to work in his Scala SEL (Amundsen system). Whilst a Bluetooth connection can be established, it adamantly refuses to recognise his phone contacts. (And even if we resort to entering a phone number manually, there seems no way to save it as a named contact within the Amundsen system.) I know Skoda have a list of compatible phones, and his (xiaomi redmi 5) perhaps unsurprisingly doesn’t feature on their apparently haphazard and outdated list - also tried my Oneplus 7 pro which isn’t on the list and doesn’t transfer contacts either. Are we really restricted to using one of the limited models of phone on Skoda’s list? I’m very surprised that despite quite a bit of online research I haven’t been able to find any recent discussion of this issue and I’m wondering if anyone here has encountered and preferably solved a similar problem.

Twice done trips from north of Glasgow to Deal, Kent (530 miles each way). Just today drove back down to Ross-on-Wye (375 miles) before continuing to Deal tomorrow via Nailsea, Bristol (275 miles). Not bad for a standard 1.3 Felicia bought for £46 in 2007! I actually find it reasonably comfortable (and I'm 6ft 3) and I'm always surprised at how, even in the Felly, I manage to pass about 80% of the other traffic on the motorway. I got a few jobs done on the car while it was at home in Scotland but, annoyingly, an exhaust blow developed today which I will need to get sorted out once I reach Kent. I think it's the central silencer; hopefully not the cat!

Thanks, I got the other one - been looking for ages!

An update.... I eventually realised the other thrustwasher is the thing on the timing case side of the shaft, but with both thrustwashers apparently correctly located, the engine still wouldn't turn. Put everything back together with a view to getting the garage to take the car in. Then decided to investigate once again. I tried removing the crankshaft pulley and putting the bolt on without the pulley - and hey presto the engine turned!! Tried it on the starter and it fired up first time (no timing chain rattle I was pleased to note). So obviously there is something amiss in the crankshaft pulley area, whether it's the thrustwashers or what, I 'm not yet sure. Bottom line is, I've now got to do the entire job again as I will have to get the crankshaft sprocket off to find out exactly what's wrong. So near and yet so far, but hearing that engine run, albeit without the crankshaft pulley, has given me hope again!

Yes, the original chain had a good deal of slack. The new one is tight, but not excessively so I think. It's an MPi. This dummy distributor drive, is that the oil pump drive? I haven't replaced that yet anyway. I've only got the timing cover back on and the crankshaft pulley. Before reattaching the oil pump or the sump I decided to see if the engine would turn freely and that's when I found it would not move! There is that bit in the Haynes manual that says: "Check that the inner and outer thrustwasher locating tabs are aligned with the cut-outs on the right hand main bearing cap, and that the thrustwashers are correctly seated in their recesses........Note that if the thrustwashers are not properly seated, the crankshaft will lock up as the bolt is tightened, and the thrustwashers will be damaged. Check that the crankshaft rotates freely before proceeding further." When I checked this before tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt, I could only see one of these tabs, and the photo in the Haynes manual only appears to show one, but as far as I could see mine was exactly per the photo, so I went ahead and tightened up. I got a premonition that all was not well when the crankshaft didn't try to turn as I tightened the pulley bolt. I didn't think anything was amiss as regards the thrustwasher tabs, but the reference to the possibility of the crankshaft locking up has got me wondering...

Thanks for the suggestion Ahmet. It was an interesting idea but I narrowed down the cause of the problem to the fact that the Woodruff key on the camshaft was not aligned with its keyway when I fitted the chain according to the 12 links rule. As I explained it my last posting, I felt that the camshaft must have moved and that maybe if I rotated it so that the Woodruff key was in alignment that might resolve the problem. After a lot of trial and error, I finally got the alignment right this morning after turning the camshaft maybe 20 degrees anti-clockwise. That enabled me to fit the new sprockets and chain. But my relief was shortlived! After replacing the timing chain cover and the crankshaft pulley, I found that the crankshaft will not turn at all. I assume that this is the result of having turned the camshaft on its own while the chain was off. I haven't used the starter motor, so as to avoid damage, but I have released the brakes, put the gearlever in neutral, and removed the spark plugs. The engine just will not turn via the crankshaft pulley. There is only one more thing I can think of, which is that maybe for some reason my engine does not conform with the "12 link rule" (perhaps someone has had it apart before and reassembled it in an unconventional way). If that is the case, instead of moving the camshaft, I should have gone to 14 or 16 links in order that the chain would go on. So my options are 1) to take the timing chain off again, put the camshaft back as closely as possible to where it was originally, and refit the chain using as a gap of as many links as necessary; 2) get hold of a secondhand engine; or 3) go and see my local garage in the morning and see if they will take the car in and sort it all out for me. I have never had such a problem in over 35 years that I've been tinkering with my cars and I can't recall ever being defeated before, but I'm very much leaning towards option 3!

Here's the latest. The sprockets will go on reasonably comfortably without the chain. They won't go on with the chain, whether I use the new chain or the old one. I think what must be happening is that after I locate the crankshaft sprocket onto the start of the shaft, the tension of the chain is pulling the camshaft sprocket round so that it is no longer properly aligned with its Woodruff key, although it's difficult to actually see this, particularly when I'm working alone. Seems to me that if the chain is over-tensioned, the only explanation is that the crankshaft and camshaft must have moved in relation to one another - although I'm not aware of this having happened and I obviously tried to prevent it. If one or other shaft has rotated slightly, the two Woodruff keyways will no longer be correctly aligned. Does this seem a logical explanation? If so, how can I check the relative alignment of the crankshaft and the camshaft and, more importantly, how do I correct it?? One way, I suppose, would be to rotate the camshaft anti-clockwise slightly until it results in the chain tension being reduced just enough to enable it to be refitted. However, this seems rather a crude adjustment and it also depends on my misalignment theory being correct, otherwise it could make things a lot worse.

I guessed so, but thanks for the thought anyway!

Helensburgh, near Glasgow.

Thanks for your comments. I have checked with Jorily that I definitely have the correct parts, so I will just have to have another go tomorrow. I can see myself having to put everything back as it was, including the old timing chain!

Maybe that's a possibility. I bought the parts from Jorily over a year ago and have been putting the job off until now (wish I had put it off for ever!!) I have checked their website again and it does say in relation to post-98 timing chains "Some MPi model may have the earlier type Timing Chain fitted..." I have contacted them for clarification in case this is the cause of my problems.

Hopeless. I've filed down both the Woodruff keys to the point where I can just about get the sprockets back on without the chain, but it's impossible once the tension of the chain is on them. I have resorted to trying to refit the old sprockets with the new chain, because they are not quite as tight to fit as the new sprockets, but still can't get them on. I am still worried anyway that chain seems so tight, just how tight should a new chain be??

Not making much progress here. I don't think the tightness of the chain is the problem after all as I have tried the sprockets without the chain and they still don't want to go on. I've even tried the old camshaft sprocket and that is no better! The camshaft sprocket is worse than the crankshaft sprocket; I could probably force the latter on with a bit of tapping, but with the camshaft sprocket a) there is very little room to tap it because the chassis is in the way and I am conscious that it may not be very good for the camshaft to have the sprocket thwacked back on! I never removed the Woodruff key from the camshaft end as it is a pretty tight fit but it appears to be in good condition. I am really at a loss - both the sprockets were fairly tight to remove and required levering off, but I never imagined it would prove so hard to get the new ones (or even the old ones) back on.